Last post on May 12, 2013 at 12:38 PM
You are in the Buick LeSabre
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Buick LeSabre, Auto Repair, Sedan
#54 of 75 1998 Buick Lesabre MAP Sensor Voltage
Feb 06, 2009 (5:20 am)
I have the "Check Engine" light staying on. I had it scanned and it came up with the MAP sensor. I check the voltage from the positive terminal of the harness connector to ground and it reads 11.5 Volts. Should this voltage be closer to 4-6 volts like it says in the 1995 Buick Service Manual or did they increase the voltage on the 1998 model?
If it should be 4-6 volts does anyone have an idea of what might be the problem?
Does it mean that the PCM is bad and needs to be replaced?
Apr 10, 2009 (6:48 am)
i have a 95 buick lasabre. was running fine ecxept wene we drove it it just lost all power a few times. you could hear fuel pump kick in, it rolled over but had to do this several times before it started agian. change fuel filter, plugs, wires, and ecm computer. now its not fireing on 2 cylinders. went to junk yard bought a ignition module still not firing on same 2 cylinders. can you give me suggions on what im not seeing here. oh i had boesch plugs went back and put ac delco in still no change
#56 of 75 Re: 1998 Buick 3800 Motor Check Eng Light [Sizzlerdon]
Apr 26, 2009 (7:35 am)
I have the very same problem. I have changed, TPS, MAP, MAF, EGR, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, wires, plenum, lower intake gaskets, PCV, coils. My ignition module was checked at Autozone and turned OK. Compression reads 195, 190, 190, 190, 190, 200. I wonder if I may have a broken valve spring or faulty knock, crank, or cam sensor,
Did you find the problem on yours?
#57 of 75 CODES READ "NOT READY"
Aug 26, 2009 (10:15 am)
I have a 2002 buick lesabre and am tring to get it inspected but for some reason when it is hook up to the obd2 it reads that my o2 senser, o2 sensers htr, Evap, catalyst all say "not ready" why is this. It will not pass inspection enless it can read and I no there is nothing wrong with the vehicle (even the mech said that) please help me before I get a ticket thank you
#58 of 75 '91 Le Sabre 92K miles engine knocking
Mar 23, 2010 (5:22 am)
Bought it 8 months ago with 79000 miles. Now I have 92000 on it. Runs GREAT! One day I was stuck in traffic for about 30 minutes. Car shut off. I let it set for about 8 minutes. Started back up. Drove it about 3 blocks to a spot where I could park it. Let it set for 3 hours. Started it back up and drove it home, which is a 23 minute drive. Replaced the fan motor. Car still runs great. Now there is a knock or some sort of loud sound. When the car starts up, you hear it. It is consistent, not erratic. When I drive with the windows down and the radio off, I hear nothing at all. When I sit in park and press gently on the gas, the sound goes away. Do you have a list of things we may want to check, because i sure hope it is not a thrown rod!
#59 of 75 Re: CODES READ "NOT READY" [foreverjokker]
Aug 08, 2010 (7:26 am)
Has the OBDII drive procedure been followed?
Pull a copy from the web & give it a try FIRST.
Note: this tends to be typical if there has been a battery related situation (dead, replaced, etc..)
#60 of 75 HELP, single women with no car knowledge
Aug 13, 2010 (1:49 pm)
I have a 99 Buick LaSabre that is driving me crazy. A few weeks ago I went out to buy school clothes and my car wouldn't start. After about 4 tries I got it to start but it was jerking and shut off. I finally got it started and took it to a Tires Plus shop. They told me it was the fuel pump, I changed that and they charged me 429. The next day I had the same problem. I called them back and they said bring it back in. I took it in and they kept it for 4 days, they finally called and said that they weren't sure what it was and they would replace the fuel pump under the warranty but I needed to replace the sensor that went along with it. That was another 110. I had the car 2 days and guess what??? THE SAME DANG PROBLEM! At this point im frustrated. I called and again they told me to bring it in.
I took it in for a third time and like a dummy told them that someone said it could be a map sensor. And guess what magically that was the problem. I was charged another 117, now im broke my car is still doing the same thing and I feel I have been wronged. When I try and start it it hesitates most times, sometimes it will try and cut off right after taking off and sometimes it runs fine. I dont know what to do and I was wondering if anyone has had this problem or can give me any suggestions?
#61 of 75 99 LaSaabre engine code
Sep 05, 2010 (6:05 pm)
My ck engine light comes on and my car quite while running. Just dies and I have to restart it.
I checked the code and It does not give one.
What could the problem be that the code light keeps coming on and no code?
#62 of 75 security light on a 97 buick lesabre
Sep 13, 2010 (8:49 am)
I have in the last 2 months replaced a map sensor,injectors, fuel pump, plugs and wires,serpentine belt and battery. Now the security light is coming on. I wait 3 minutes and it goes off and then I can start the car...usually. Sometimes it takes 3 or 4 tries at 3 minute intervals and it starts. Now its coming on and going off while driving. I just spent another $25 on a new key and its still doing it. I 've read that you can remove the VATS bypass module. I live in a small town and dont need the security anti theft anyways. Where is that located on a 3.8 engine? I also heard you can bypass it. Which is easier and cheaper? My car use to be so reliable and I have a very active daughter and need to be able to start the car without any worries of being stuck...Any help would so be gratefull...
#63 of 75 Re: security light on a 97 buick lesabre [brookingsbuick]
Sep 13, 2010 (9:41 am)
The security system requires two contacts in the key cylinder to touch the sides of the key, and two fine wires run down the steering column to the connector near the base of the steering column.
The contacts wear and don't make contact.
The key gets dirty.
The wires break strands where the steering column bends with the tilt adjustment and that changes the resistance of the strands; that means your wires may break completely sooner rather than later.
Here is a link. Just search for VATS and you'll find a plethora of solutions.
You find the orange tube that looks like a wire that has two fine wires inside. Note where it plugs in. Cut it with extra wire away from the connector. Solder in the resistor pack you built after measuring resistance with a meter to see which of 15 you have.
Note that you connect the new resistors to the wires going to the connector--not the wires going up to the steering column.
Car alarm places get premade resistors in packs for the 15 GM values. They are used to bypassing to let their alarms do the work. That might be an alternative if you don't like lying on your back to get to this stuff.
There also is access through the glovebox after you take it out. The theft deterrent module is over there that the wires go to. You can cut the proper two wires there and insert your resistor pack. The resistance has to be with 5-10% of the original values.