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Buick LeSabre Electrical/Lighting

182 messages,  Last post on Sep 29, 2009 at 9:57 AM

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What is this discussion about? Buick LeSabre, Lights, Electrical, Sedan

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#175 of 182 LIGHTS LeSABRE by niceride3 Jun 16, 2009 (9:30 am)
Sorry for many posts BUT a forum called TOPIX seems to have more responses to these light problems than Edmonds. For folks who are handy with a soldering iron, in most cases, you can replace these lamps with a WESTINGHOUSE ## 8111 bulb from www.atlanticelightbulbs.com   It's a 14 volt bulb that should last longer than the 12volt bulb that was "engineered" in the USA. Why pay $40 for a replacement switch/bulb (Steering Wheel controls) when it's only a $1.15 bulb? CAMOWN America wake up!! Fred Send your donations for my solution to the following PayPal address............just kidding Replies to this message: budl (Aug 19, 2009 6:33 pm)
#176 of 182 93 Buick LeSabre by earpster Jun 21, 2009 (9:10 am)
Does anyone know if the IP or the Gauge clusters are interchangable? (one has idiot lights, one has gauges) Thanks for the help.
#177 of 182 electrical problems? by jasminer Aug 03, 2009 (6:50 pm)
I posted this in the Answers section as well, so sorry for the repeat!   I have a silver 1998 Buick LeSabre that has many, many electrical problems. The first problem started when the battery holder broke off inside my main electronic transmitter (I guess you could call it "keyless entry," since it has the lock/unlock buttons) and the spare just stopped working altogether. I replaced the battery and everything and still no luck. Couldn't lock my doors after that, but I could still drive the car. The second problem is that shortly after that, the horn starts randomly honking by itself. I could be sitting at a stoplight and the horn would suddenly go off for no reason. The only way to turn it off was to keep pushing the horn until the noise stopped. Couldn't lock the doors and could'nt beep the horn if I needed to. Kind of dangerous, but I could still drive. The third problem is that shortly after the horn problem, the alarm AND the horn start to go off simultaneously at random times as well. The only remedy to this problem was to disconnect the battery and leave it unplugged for at least an hour. Couldn't lock the doors, couldn't beep the horn, and couldn't go long distances for fear that the alarm would go off (thus enabling the anti-theft feature and preventing me from starting the car.) But I could still drive, as long as I had a wrench (or whatever it is :p) to disconnect the battery. The final problem is that now, after all of these other problems, the car will not start. I still have auxillary power (all the lights come on, the radio plays, windows roll down, etc.,) but the car won't run. Any guesses as to what may be happening? I was going to take it to the dealership to see about it, but they want $85-$100 just to look at it, let alone attempt to fix it and as a college student, I just can't afford that much for a diagnosis. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Aug 03, 2009 7:15 pm)
#178 of 182 Re: electrical problems? [jasminer] by imidazol97 Aug 03, 2009 (7:15 pm)
Replying to: jasminer (Aug 03, 2009 6:50 pm) Wow:   The battery holder posts broke off in the remote. I assume that means you're using a different remote? If they broke off they probably can't be soldered back into place on the circuit board or repaired. I replaced one of mine that did something like that with an Ebay with the same code number on the back. Then they can be reset to the car by connecting posts 4 and 8 in the assembly line diagnostic connector underneath next to steering wheel and then pushing buttons. I believe the directions are in the owner's manual in the glovebox. Both remotes have to be done at the same time or it only learns one.   >couldn't lock doors Are you saying the doors won't lock from the remote? Or won't lock from the buttons in the car?   Is there an aftermarket alarm on the car? If so I'd personally take it off.   I don't know much about the alarm system that was an option on the certain option packages--I ordered my 98 with only the load leveling struts and avoided the other options in the package because I didn't want the alarm. People have trouble with the sensor on the trunk lid in Bonnevilles and suggest disconnecting it.   If you're talking aftermarket alarm, I don't know.   As for the door locks not working from the inside buttons or the remote, all I think of is the problem with buss connections which get wet and salted in some areas of the country. Then they corrode. like this or this   The pictures are ones found on the net. I did not take them.   I posted one picture to show you it's under the carpet and the plastic door sill. There is also one on the passenger side. It's wrapped with lots of tape against the bundle of wires leading to the rear portion of the car. I had a '93 leSabre where the door locks occasionally wouldn't work and the AC would revert to default control of AC on and defrost mode because this buss was occasionally not making contact.   Anytime funny things happen, check grounds. This buss is one. But your main battery cables are another. Check the grounds at the battery and where they connect to fenders, motor, etc. At the battery look for corrosion down into the plastic covering the battery cable. Check the double layer positive cable where there's a lead spacer between the top and bottom cables.   Remember to turn off the AC with the key on before disconnecting the battery. I turn everything else off.   You'll find Bonnevilles are even more popular with people doing their own trouble shooting, so you might check some Bonneville forums as well. You'll note I mentioned them.   Good luck.
#179 of 182 Re: LIGHTS LeSABRE [niceride3] by budl Aug 19, 2009 (6:33 pm)
Replying to: niceride3 (Jun 16, 2009 9:30 am) In taking the advice about using a Westinghouse 8111 bulb from www.atlanticlightbulbs.com, I first check with the Buick dealer. The new switch unit was 43.00. Then went to atlantic light bulbs. The bulbs were, as you said, 1.15/bulb. But there is a minimum of 10 bulbs, so it is 11.50, not 1.15. Then there is 7.50 shipping, so it is 19.00. But wait, they have a minimum order of 24.50, so it is 24.50 + 7.50, if you can find an exactly 13.00 item to make up the 24.50, so now it is at least 32.00. Might as well spend the extra 11.00 at the Buick dealer, not have to mess around soldering and have a new switch, unless someone can tell me where I can really buy 8111 bulbs for 1.15.
#180 of 182 1997 Buick LeSabre trunk latch retrofit by chow_chow Aug 25, 2009 (9:24 am)
I have a 97 LeSabre that doesn't have the power trunk latch option.   I would like to retrofit one.   I would like to know what parts I need and what parts are already there (wiring, etc)?   The existing latch has a wire to it but does not appear to have an actuator. I am assuming I will have to replace it, but I wonder what the existing wire is for?   Thanks.
#181 of 182 Instrument Cludter by bigbluebuick Aug 27, 2009 (12:43 pm)
Hello All,   Just wondering - I have a '95 LeSabre Custom & would like to swap out the instrument cluster with that of a 96/97/98. Is this possible? I want a tach & other guages rather than just the idiot lights & speedometer.   Thanks -J
#182 of 182 2000 LeSabre blinker problem by swampguy Sep 29, 2009 (9:57 am)
My rear left blinker randomly quits working. It lights up when I open the door like it suppose to but does not blink at times. I have changed the bulb and it worked for awhile but then it started again. Any ideas?

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