48 messages,
Last post on Dec 06, 2011 at 7:05 AM
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Hyundai Elantra Forum.
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Hyundai Elantra, Tires, Wheels, Hatchback, Sedan, Wagon
#39 of 48 Re: Hyundai Elantra Tire Hydroplaning [backy]
by bill273
Mar 04, 2010 (6:56 pm)
Thanks!
Already scheduled to have it into dealer tomorrow for check of alignment and tires.
Looking for feedback from others in case there have been other experiences.
#40 of 48 Winter tires and wheels for Elantra'03
by trainerusa
May 15, 2010 (12:38 pm)
Hello guys,
I'm wondering if 205/55R16 winter tires with the relevant wheels will fits into Elantra'03.
Please advise
May 24, 2010 (4:57 pm)
I just bought a 2010 Elantra and noticed it was riding rather roughly. Eventually I checked the tires and discovered that all four had been inflated to 37 psi. I see that one or two other posters have noticed this as well. Is there any good reason for this, or is it like TVs that are set too bright at the factory? Presumably I should bring them down to 32, yes?
#42 of 48 Re: Overinflation [blebnevus]
by fushigi
May 25, 2010 (5:10 am)
Bring them to whatever's on your car's sticker. The sticker is on the driver's door frame so open the door & look for the sticker; it won't show when the door is closed. Trust the sticker more than the car's manual.
That said, there's nothing inherently wrong with overinflating a few PSI. It will return marginally higher MPG at the expense of a firmer (some might say harsher) ride.
As I advised someone in a thread about another make, go down to 32 PSI (or the recommended..) and run with that for a tank or two of gas. If you find the ride too soft for your taste, bump the PSI up by 2 and try again. When you hit the point where you prefer the ride, stop; i.e. when the ride gets too firm, back off. Also stop if you get close to the max PSI of the tires themselves (listed on the tire sidewall).
If you do settle on something other than the recommended, remember to tell your shop about it when bringing the car in for an oil change or other service since most places check the air as part of their "free inspection".
BTW on my prior car I ran my 32-PSI-recommended tires at 37 for several years with no consequences. I liked the ride better. I haven't even looked at what my current car's tires are set to.
#43 of 48 Re: Overinflation [blebnevus]
by backy
May 25, 2010 (6:14 am)
Tires are overinflated for shipping on the trucks. Dealers are supposed to set them to spec before delivery. You might mention that to the service manager next time you go in--let them know someone didn't do his/her job.
As noted, running them at 37 psi won't hurt them, but you will probably find the ride is much smoother at 32.
#44 of 48 Re: Overinflation [backy]
by blebnevus
May 25, 2010 (1:27 pm)
Thanks, fushigi and backy. Very helpful.
#45 of 48 Wheel studs
by cpo1990
May 17, 2011 (10:19 am)
I own a 2008 Hyundia Elantra GLS. Twice I've had wheel studs break away when attempting to repair flats. The last one I couldn't budge 2 of the lug nuts so I took the car in to a qualified mechanic. The minute the first one broke off he stopped all work. I'm afraid the other stud will snap off when they try and replace the already broken one. Has anyone had this problem? To me it sounds like either the wheel stud is expanding or the lug nut is expanding due to heat and not going back to its' orginal size. Larry
#46 of 48 Re: Wheel studs [cpo1990]
by capriracer
May 18, 2011 (3:18 am)
CPO1990,
Someone likely over-torque the lug nuts and stretched the studs to a point near breakage. Removing the lug nuts was merely the straw that broke the camels back.
#47 of 48 Re: Wheel studs [capriracer]
by cpo1990
May 18, 2011 (9:18 am)
capriracer: Thanks for the input. Your the second person that has said this. I took the first broken wheel stud to a machine shop and they said the same thing. If anyone reading this has had this problem, please post it. Again, thanks. Larry
#48 of 48 Re: Wheel studs [cpo1990]
by tardolejohn
Dec 06, 2011 (7:05 am)
My wife owns a 2001 Elantra. We kept hearing a clicking noise in rear wheel while braking. Discovered that some of the wheel nuts were bottoming out on the stud (it is a "closed nut") before 80 lb torque was reached. This condition left the hub a little bit loose. I consider this to be a dangerous condition. It could also be what has led to some bolts wringing off since now every blow of the air wrench is transferred perfectly to the bolt with zero slippage of the nut on the bolt.
I intend to pursue this with Hyundai. At this point I am tempted to grind off a few thousandths from each bolt, but first want to see if Hyundai has a fix.