Last post on Oct 22, 2012 at 7:58 AM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma
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Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, GMC S-15, Heating / Cooling, Truck
#48 of 76 Trouble with Head/Feat Control
May 30, 2008 (5:09 pm)
I am having trouble with the Head/Feet control. It is a 2001 Chevy S10 with ZR2 Package. When I go to put the air to blow on my feet, so that all the air comes out the bottom, its as if i never moved the switch. It still comes out the top (face). Also when I try to put it on defrost, nothing happens. It only blows out of the 4 vents that point at my face. Any ideas as to what is wrong?
#49 of 76 Re: Trouble with Head/Feat Control [soccrfinatic13]
May 31, 2008 (6:59 am)
Check for a vacuum leak. Under hood drivers side, the hose goes into fender well where vacuum reservoir is located. Trace it out looking for a problem.
#50 of 76 AC won't cool unless under acceleration.
Dec 09, 2008 (10:50 am)
I have a 98 S10 W\factory air that only cools under acceleration. I thought it was low on refrigerant so I bought a refill kit with a gage. It was at 35psi on the high side so I added just a shot and it's now at 39psi with no change. I do not have a full set of gages so I am unable to check the low side.
At cold idle the compressor kicks in and cools perfectly. However, once warmed up and at idle or highway cruising speed, the compressor no longer kicks in and the only way to get cold air again is to accelerate. As soon as I accelerate to pass a car the vents start blowing very good and cold air. I checked the low pressure switch on the can, and as far as I can tell it's not receiving voltage when engine is running and warm. As soon as I rev the engine the compressor will kick in again and blow cold air.
The compressor and dryer were replaced about 5 years ago and I have had no problems of any kind until recently. This has me stumped. I've got a long road trip ahead of me and I live in the south. Any suggestions would be appreciated
#51 of 76 Vent Control Switch
Jan 15, 2009 (10:34 pm)
I have an 03 S10. The vent control has a vacuum leak behind it that can be heard. I took it out and found the rubber piece which directs the vac flow had swelled so that it did not fit the metal backing piece which presses the rubber piece against the vacuum manifold. I replaced it and it worked fine for a while and then it swelled again so the noise is back and it doesn't work. Does anybody know what"s going on here?
#52 of 76 Re: 2000 Chevy S-10 Blower Motor [sn4ck0]
Jan 17, 2009 (10:02 pm)
I am having a similar problem with my 01 sonoma. The heat worked fine this morning but after work it would only work on 2 and 3. Would this more likely be the switch in the truck? My guess is on 4 its bypassing the resistor correct? I used a volt meter and at the plug for the blower i get no voltage when on 1 or 4.
#53 of 76 Heater and Warm Air
Apr 12, 2009 (3:22 pm)
It seems that my heater is taking awhile to get warm. I have a 2001 4.3 V6 S-10. It used to be that the heater air would start getting warm as soon as the temp gauge moved past the 100 mark on the temp gauge. It only took maybe a mile of driving before it was warm enough to turn on full blast and not be chilled by the air.
However, just recently the air won't get warm at all until the temp gauge reached 210 (midpoint) and then it would go from cold (not lukewarm, not even cool, but mostly cold - as cold as the outside air), to almost instantly hot. Almost like if you were to turn the cold water off on a faucet at the same time you were turning on the hot water. What is it that controls and regulates the airflow from hot or cold? Is there a valve somewhere that opens and closes? That is my first thought because the heater air is eventually hot. It gets as hot as it should and always has, it just takes until the truck warms all the way up to the midpoint temp which is 210. After that it stays warm, even if I shut the truck off for a couple of hours and come back later. As long as the temp hasn't dropped all the way back down to below 100 the heater stays warm.
I should also note that I a while back, the switchover from floor to dash to defrost started taking a little longer as well as it seemed that the switch from fresh to re-circ A/C wasn't always happening. Again I have figured a slow moving valve and for the most part those switches always happen and I was able to mostly solve the recirc to fresh air switch by having moving from one to the other repeatedly and it seemed to "correct" the issue to the point that it is certainly usable but not and instant switchover from one mode to the next. It takes several seconds to switch from one mode to the next.
#54 of 76 Re: Heater and Warm Air [the_big_al]
Apr 13, 2009 (9:19 am)
The heat is controlled by a electric actuated door. It directs air through the heater core for heat and outside air for cold. Usually when door motor breaks you stuck in one mode. The heater cores have been known the plug, usually it give low or no heat.
Reverse flush is the way to clear a heater core, from the pump side out the head side.
#55 of 76 Re: Heater and Warm Air [gonogo]
Apr 14, 2009 (11:24 am)
but what if I have good heat eventually?? The heater will get hot as soon as the temp reaches the 210 operating range, just not until then. It used to gradually warm up until then and was warm enough to operate as soon as the needle moved past the 100 mark, but not it stays completely cold until the 210 mark.... the system I'm sure needs to be flushed as it's been about 4 years since it was done so maybe that's the issue. Too bad the weather is trying really hard to warm up otherwise I would be more worried.
Jun 02, 2009 (4:50 pm)
Here's a truly odd one. I think I solved the heater issue I was having though. I checked the coolant level and found that it was low. I added more coolant and all seems fine now. It is time for a coolant flush though. All three of my vehicles need it as well as 2 of them need an oil change... Looks like a good half a days work.
Anyway, I am experiences a quirky turn signal. It is on the driver's side. It only happens when the lights are on and then only intermittently. When it happens it acts like a bulb is burnt out with the fast and short blinking. Only there are not any bulbs out. When it has happened, I have gotten out of my truck to see what is happening. The front seems fine. However, the rear lights are where the quirk is. When the turn signal is on the bright lights up, but near as bright as it should. When it goes of, the reverse light, driver's side license plate light and tail-light illuminate. Then alternates back to a not as bright turn signal.
It's hard to explain... maybe I'll try taking a video of it when it happens again and posting it. But at this point I am at a loss as to where to even begin....
#57 of 76 Re: AC won't cool unless under acceleration. [Texun]
Oct 29, 2009 (8:11 pm)
I had this same exact problem and after trying a few things it ended up being the clutch on the A/Ccompressor. Once you replace this you'll be good to go, I haven't had a problem since....it was an immediate fix. Hope this helps.