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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Climate Control

57 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 8:11 PM
You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Forum. Your Host is kcram
Has anybody else experienced air flowing through your vents, similar to if the fan was on low, when you have the knob on OFF. ??? any suggestions?
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Replying to: dkurrle (Oct 21, 2006 9:34 pm)
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm) (Now that they changed/ closed the general forum topic to read only ( a blunder in my opinion) - I find it hard to want to spend the time to jump through multiple discussions and read reply ... too bad. But good to find a post from you !! ) re: Fan - I think I remember reading that due to CO concerns the fan will never shut off - in case someone falls asleep in the vehicle - and/or the tail pipe get blocked (i.e., parked in snow). So I think this might be "normal". The pain is that when you leave the flow path knob set for "Floor" - it gets hot air - especially irritating in the summer. What I do is change the flow know to top vent set to Cold (not AC)- it seems to fix the issue. Air still comes out - but it's not hot and it's at least Not bothersome ... |
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Replying to: the_big_al (Jun 27, 2008 3:16 pm) |
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hi i have a 1995 chevy s10 has 150.000 miles and we can't get any heat, the fan works great! this is my sons truck and we are in the north east so were trying to get it to work before it really gets cold. any help or ideas would be appreciated
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Replying to: jhatch (Dec 11, 2006 5:05 pm) |
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| kinda sounds like my truck...only mine blew smoke outa it lol but it kinda sounds like a heater core to me.... | |
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I am trying to replace the heater core in my 2000 S-Blazer. I got the dash out and the heater/ventilation unit loose except for what appear to be 2 bolts coming through from the engine side of the firewall at the bottom. I am working from a Haynes manual, but there is no mention of these bolts. If I am right, the only recourse is to depressurize the A/C system & remove the evaporator to get to these 2 bolts. Seems ridiculous to have to do this to replace a heater core. Looking for any help or advice that might be out there. Thanks
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Replying to: chuk (Feb 16, 2007 8:02 pm) Finally determined that you have to go in through the right wheel well -- remove the wheel and wheel well liner (meaning you have to pull the battery, powertrain ECM, and the coolant reservoir. Once all that is out of the way, you can get to the 2 studs coming through the firewall, remove the nuts, and proceed. |
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