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Ford F-Series Braking Questions
36 messages, Last post on Jul 23, 2009 at 8:54 PM
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The ABS light on my '99 stays on all the time now. Before, it was just intermittent. My mechanic says that there is a bad sensor in the differential and there is absolutely no safety issue. Another guy told me that if the light is on, the ABS system is not working (obviously a safety issue). While I've only got about 60K miles on it, I've just had the rotors replaced, after haveing them turned twice. Anyone have any advice? Thanks.
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| I have an 06 F150 with ~20K miles with no problems of any kind. On recent trip was on road for ~6 hrs. When taking exit ramp I MAY (can't remember for sure) have TAPPED (not more) brake pedal. Suddenly (1) warning buzzer went off and at the same time (2) ABS light illuminated and (3) TCS light illuminated. I was on exit ramp so checked for brakes - - normal braking. ABS and TCS lights remained illuminated (steady). Drove home shut down and unpacked. Restarted truck to park it - - ABS light on steady and TCS light OFF. Checked several days later ABS light on steady, TCS light OFF. Any suggestions? Speed sensor? | |
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Replying to: bassman45 (Oct 18, 2007 10:50 am) The bad sensor call is likely correct. If so, you don't have ABS. You DO have normal braking (probably why the mechanic says "no safety issue") You have to decide how badly you want ABS. While I've only got about 60K miles on it, I've just had the rotors replaced, after haveing them turned twice. Not common for any truck I've heard of. Were the pads gone? That said, I don't know (1) driving habits (2) operating conditions or (3) what kind of loads you're carrying. Could be a combination of all. Non-negative Fact: Some people wear out brakes (and vehicles) faster than others. |
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'92, F350, dually, 141,000. Has belt driven type assist. I know that a slight hiss when pressing brake is normal and has to do with something called a brake assist. Prior to my last brake job at the Ford dealer, the hiss was short in duration, and when depressing the brake pedal, the normal travel distance before braking was approximately 2". After last brake job at the dealer (master cyclinder, calipers, drums/discs resurface, and adjust rea brake regulators), the hiss sound was much longer in duration, and the pedal travel increased to 4 1/2" (i.e. nearly to the floor starting from 6"). Ford has maintained nothing wrong. Wrong - it has been downright scary to have to press the brake pedal that far. (They system has been bled numerous times with no change - even immediately after bleeding.) I have since replace the MC with a MC with a larger (bore?). The brake pedal travel is now 3" (getting closer to the way it was before). Does anyone know 1) what would cause a longer hissing sound, and 2) is this related to a longer brake pedal travel distance? Thanks guys. Female needs help !!
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Replying to: bassman45 (Oct 18, 2007 10:50 am) |
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Replying to: cayadopi (Dec 10, 2007 2:40 am) The longer hissing sound is caused by the hydralic assist to have to either work harder or longer to push on the Master cylinder to pressurise the brake system. Lets assume for the moment that there is no new problem with the assist part of the system. You didn't have this problem until the brakes were done. Right? This symptom is telling me that there is a lack of restriction in the hydrallic brake lines somewhere, such as ; incorrect brake calipers or incorrect rear wheel cylinders(for regular power brakes lets say) or in some cases there is an ajustment rod with a backwards threaded bolt coming out of the assist,(not all models). This adjustment is critical for proper braking. Very unlikly this rod if your truck has it is causing this symptom. If I had to take a guess without inspecting the brakes on this vehicle, my money is on incorrect calipers or wheel cylinders. Here is my explanation that would have to be researched and inspected on your truck. Sometimes calipers and wheel cylinders for a regular power brake system and a hydralic assist look the same, but the chambers or cavities inside them are different sizes. This means they require different amounts of hydralic pressure from the master cylinder. You need a very experienced technician to check this for you. And yes, the Dealer does make mistakes. I fix one of their screw ups at least once a month. Good luck! |
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| can anyone tell me the order you need to bleed the brakes after changing pads.i know it has to be done in a specific order but i dont know it. i have a 2004 f-150. help would be greatly appreciated | |
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I just bought an Actron CP9180 reader. On the Diagnostic Monitor Tests, I get Test $26 Low Test $2a Low Test $2b Low Test $56 High This on a Ford E-150, 4.2 I tried to find what monitor tests check, but I cannot decifer these codes. Can someone point me in the right dirrection. I have a rough running engine that is driving me nuts. All of the OBD codes say ok. |
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My Dad is getting screwed by ford... 2005 Ford F150 (nov purchase date) one owner only it has 25000 kms Took it to the ford dealership to have the brakes done. (sticking- ended up being rust) HOWEVER... because of the low mileage, they said that we misused the vehicle by letting it "sit". So the dealership said the warranty was void and we paid the repair on a credit card, they would not release the vehicle to us otherwise. This truck is driven at least twice a week (except for a one month period when Dad was in hospital). This truck has never been off road or on a gravel road for that matter. the brakes should not have rust. I've read and re-read the warranty manual. nowhere is it mentioned that lack of use equals missuse.... there are no aftermarket parts, and we follow the maintenance schedule. I suspect the dealership didn't even call ford warranty. How do i get them to honor the warranty... (I wanted to call ford warranty, but they apparently only "talk shop" with dealers, not owners...) |
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How difficult is it to replace the driver-side front abs sensor on an '04 f-150, 4x4? Great detail would be appreciated.
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