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Pickups Ford Ranger Ford Ranger Brake Problems
116 messages, Last post on Oct 26, 2009 at 7:52 PM
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Hi everyone new to this!.I have a 99 ford ranger xlt my brakes seem to let go and grab and let go and grab when braking. i replaced the front pad, rotors, calipers, wheel bearings(probably not related but what the heck was already in there) lubricated the pins and back of pads. i sprayed the new rotors with brake cleaner because i was told i need to get the anti corrosion off there. i bled the brakes at least 5 times because i thought was the problem. i replaced the abs sensor on the rear differential because one day when i was driving along the light came on and it wouldnt shift out of first! and the overdrive light was flashing. that solved that problem but now if i go over 70 mph the speedometer goes nuts and the od light flashes! i cant find a speed sensor which i thought it could be.havent messed with rear drums or shoes yet.I love my truck and hate that it doesnt work right. Sorry about long post any advice would be great!! and i had that cruise control recall fixed also.
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Replying to: soldierjosh (Jan 21, 2009 10:32 am) Rangers across many years have grabby REAR drum brakes. When the truck sits for just a few hours, overnight is long enough, in damp or rainy weather (or I would think if coated in snow slush), the brake drums will rust up and the brakes will grab excessively when first driven. My 94 would do this even when kept in a garage. I usually could feel the grab when backing out, and then at the stop sign just a few feet down the street. I finally decided I would 'ride' the brakes slightly for about 100 yards down the street. This removed the rust buildup and heated up the drums enough that there was no more grab. I have read of people that changed the brake shoes and/or the drums and got relief. But other people that did this still had grabby brakes. Of course, you could have a problem needing repaired back there. If a rear wheel cylindar is leaking brake fluid onto the shoes, you will also get huge grabbing. And this usually continues, it will not quickly wear off. Or, if you have broken or bent holddown pins or the shoes are not centered on the backing plate (pin problems let the shoes flop around) for some reason, this will give the worse grabbing I could imagine. I drove an old Ford F100 for 250 miles where it would almost jerk me off the road when the brakes were applied. When I got into the brakes, there were several broken and bent pins. All these small parts, including new holddown springs can be bought and easily replaced. And the auto adjusters might be really messed up from a previous repair and cause problem. On the rear, anything that will allow the shoes to move around in an incorrect matter will cause grabbing.
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Replying to: bolivar (Jan 22, 2009 12:40 am)  . from reading through the forums and everyones advice i think there is a good chance air got into the abs pump when i bled the brakes and replaced the sensor ( its possible the sensor could be faulty also) and in order to get the air out of the pump i must take it to the shop. sound about right?
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Replying to: soldierjosh (Jan 22, 2009 9:02 am) |
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I have a 2008 ranger two wheel drive,I want to replace my front rotors when I do my new pads,I have read that on these trucks when replacings the rotors there are abs sensors and tone rings?I have never heard of these do they come on the new rotors?if not where are they and are they hard to change out.Since these rotors come off with the wheel bearing nut do you just take off the nut and the bearings's just slide out?Has anyone out there done this. Thanks if anyone has any answers to this. |
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as far as your sensors go... they can be anywhere around the area. most manufacturers do it different from others. just look for the wires and follow them, they will lead you to the sensor. when you take off the bearing nut and washer you can pull the rotor straight off. the outside bearing will come right out. the race will have to be pressed out if you want to replace it. i usually dont replace them unless they are really messed up. now, for the inside bearing, your gonna have a seal on the inside holding the inner bearing in. once you get the rotor off you can put the washer and nut back on the spindle shaft. sit the rotor on the washer to the point that the seal is caught on the washer. tilt the rotor down toward the ground a little and just jerk it out toward you and the seal should come right on out. I do recomend that you replace that seal after you pull it out. you will need to re-pack the bearings with grease and pack the center of the rotor with grease as well when putting it back on.
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hi everyone, the brake lights on my 1998 Ranger XLT 4-Cyl Supercab aren't working!!! the red light in the 3-bulb assembly turns on when i turn on the driving lights, but nothing happens when i step on the brake pedal. i checked all of the bulbs and they are fine. here's some more info: - the people who installed the camper shell (which i removed today) 10 years ago covered up the 3rd brake light above the truck's sliding rear window - the people who installed the camper shell seemed to have spliced into the wiring for the middle (red) bulb on the driver's side to provide power to the camper shell's 3rd brake light (which never worked) what should i check for? i'm not very handy with cars, but i'd like to have an idea of what's going on, so that i can either fix it myself (if it's something simple) or so that i can have an idea of what to expect if i take it to get it fixed. thanks!!!! |
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Replying to: ford4baker (Mar 07, 2009 10:46 pm) |
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Hello, I bought my Ranger used about 5 years ago and have loved everything about it until recently. For the last year or so now I have been having all sorts of problems with my brakes. First, the driver side brake pads and rotor wore out while the passenger side wasn't even touched. So I replaced the break pads and rotors on both the driver and passenger side. Then about 6 months later the passenger side pads and rotors wore out without the driver side looking like it was touched. So, once again I changed them. Now, it seems as if the passenger side has once again worn out way before the driver side had. I was thinking that maybe one side was getting stuck on or one side wasn't working at all but becasue it has switched sides I'm not really sure now. In between all of this I had to replace the cylinder in the rear drum brake and I thought maybe, in some way, this would fix my problem but it did not. Well, I hope someone took the time to read all this lol. Any help at all would be greatly apreciated becasue I am at a stand still right now and do not know what to do. Thanks |
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Brakes do stop vehicle with no fade or mushy feeling but with excessive pedal travel. When applying brake pedal, I hear what must be the booster bleeding air, probably due to the excess travel. Also, the emergency brake all of a sudden takes more clicks to set. This problem just occurred. No warning or previous indications of a problem. I would think that perhaps the rear brakes may be out of adjustment but are they not self adjusting? And, I recently rotated the tires and the brakes seemed OK. I had to gently work the wheels off the hubs.
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