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Pickups Ford Ranger Ford Ranger Brake Problems
116 messages, Last post on Oct 26, 2009 at 7:52 PM
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Replying to: sce_thor (Jul 30, 2008 2:54 am) Well, that's not how I think the brake system works. The power goes thru the fuse first (what good does a fuse do if the power doesn't go there first), then to the brake switch on the pedal, then when the brake is depressed and the switch closes, power goes to the rear brake lights, then to ground in the rear of the vehicle. I think you have a sticky brake switch, and when you messed with it you got it to work. I think you should just replace the brake switch, putting the plastic bushing back because this is part of the switch, Your switch will probably give you more problems in the future. In owning my 1994 Ranger for about 8 years, I replace the brake switch three times. This include one Ford switch and two aftermarket ones. For some reason, these switches do not last long. |
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Replying to: bolivar (Jul 30, 2008 1:22 pm)
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Replying to: bigzoman (Aug 02, 2008 11:38 am) |
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Noticed smoke, then sparking which turned out to be wiring (green w/red strip) burning along steering column. Took dash panels out and found wiring was to switch on pedal. After reading postings here relative frequency of failure of this switch ... I will pick up new one in the morning.... I already cut out and replaced the arching section of wiring.... ABS light flashing and of course the fuse controlling tail/brake lights blew when the wires arched. Can get the tail lights to work with switch disconnected... blows fuse when connected and activated. Anybody else seen this ? Why would faulty switch cause wiring to burn/short out?
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Replying to: 1mrwonderful2 (Sep 29, 2008 11:00 pm) Are you saying you pulled the connecter off the switch, then jumped these connectors and the fuse blew? If so, then the switch is not the problem. You have a short to ground somewhere between the switch and the brake lights. Ok, I read your note again. It looks like you got power to the wire coming out of the switch (Light Green?) and the brake lights came on. And putting the connectors back on the switch, the fuse blew. This does seem like the switch is bad, bad, bad. In fact it seems to be shorting directly to ground. I would have hoped the fuse would have blown and not smoked the wire, but maybe someone put a larger fuse in there than specified. Of the 3 switches that failed on my 94, none of them did this. The just quit making good contact when the brake pedal was pushed. This is also scary in cruise control, because when the switch/brake lights don't work, the cruise is not dis-connected when you push on the brake.... This is usually how I would find out the switch was not working. And, the one time the county deputy followed me into my driveway to tell me I didn't have any brakes light.
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Replying to: bolivar (Sep 29, 2008 11:36 pm)  Wife on way home with new switch... Hopefully installing will get us back in operation... Thanks for insight.
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Replying to: 1mrwonderful2 (Sep 30, 2008 6:24 am) Of course, they strip the wire coming out of the switch to power electric trailer brakes. This, and more, was done on my used 94. Good luck. Electricical problems are tough.
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Replying to: bolivar (Sep 30, 2008 3:01 pm) 
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Replying to: 1mrwonderful2 (Sep 30, 2008 7:34 pm) If so, you have a short somewhere between the switch and the rear lights. If it's not blowing fuses, then something you have done 'fixed' this. I would look closely at the rear lights for corrisson, etc. Look for cutting into the wiring back there to drive trailer lights. If I remember right, you drop the tailgate to get to the screws that hold the rear light lens.
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Replying to: bolivar (Sep 30, 2008 9:31 pm)  THANKS !!!!!
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