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Pickups Ford Ranger Ford Ranger Brake Problems
84 messages, Last post on Oct 02, 2008 at 10:28 AM
You are in the Ford Ranger Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Hello all I have rear abs. the abs light is always on. replaced sensor in differential. not the problem. if I keep my foot on the breaks then start the truck the light stays off till i let the break go. some times it will go off for 10 to 20 minutes. chilton book does not help for this year. cant find abs box or test lead. chilton says wire is orange/black. not under my hood. any advise would be great.
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Replying to: pfaucet (Nov 12, 2007 2:18 pm)
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Replying to: bolivar (Nov 12, 2007 6:06 pm)  proper level. need to find location of test lead for abs.
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| I own a 2000 ranger 4x4 3.0 L engine. WITH 4 WHEEL ABS . MY PROBLEM STARTED RECENTLY WHEN I APPLY THE BRAKES AT 10 MPH AND LOWER THE ABS SEEMS TO KICK IN, AND ONLY WHEN I TAKE A RIGHT TURN COMING TO A STOP. IS IT MY SPEED SENSOR ON THAT FRONT HUB CAUSING THIS ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATEDI | |
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I unfortunately own a 1990 ford ranger 2wd truck. While replacing the rear drums, neither would slide easily over the shoes, thus a sledge hammer was brought in. Now the entire rear axle is in a state of almost seizure, I'm assuming the shoes haven't retracted and are binding against the drums, or the drums are not seated squarely, despite dozens of heavy hits with a hammer. I've tried tightening the lug bolts down and they're at almost 200ft-lbs with the wheels still seized up. Would I have to adjust the shoes via the star-wheel, or are they self-adjusting, and will seat after a steady dose of RPM's, dropping the clutch and a slam into reverse? Thanks PS- All things considered, I'm actually serious about my suggested remedy
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Replying to: ryan77300d (Dec 23, 2007 4:10 pm) Because I think the Host will delete what I want to say, and, at least, send me a warning email, probably suspend me, if I would say what I want to say. Actually, rather than you 'unfortunately owning' a Ranger, it appears an unfortunate Ranger is owned by you, a person with a sledge hammer.
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Replying to: bolivar (Dec 23, 2007 4:48 pm) But the cause of the problem could also be the solution. The sledgehammer that is. He should try to remove the drums using the exact method he used to install. |
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Replying to: bolivar (Dec 23, 2007 4:48 pm) Entertaining response. I realize my methods of maintenance on this truck are rather unorthodox, I do however, have extensive knowledge of how to do everything auto-related, I don't think, however, that this vehicle is one to actually put any effort towards. Besides, why should I put effort into maintaining a vehicle which someone didn't even bother to put effort into when designing it? An unfortunate Ranger it is indeed. -Ryan |
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I have replaced the internal combustion engine in a 1987 Ford Ranger with an electric motor and (more importantly relative to this post) 1400 pounds of batteries. The Ranger had a 2.3L L4 FI OHV engine with Rear Wheel Drive only. The state inspectors checked it out with some kind of inertia piece of equipment and claimed that the brakes did not stop it quickly enough. The electric motor kit includes a vacuum pump to handle the vacuum assist and we have included a barbecue size propane tank vacuum reservoir to help with the assist. Are there any ideas as to where we could get the most increase in braking power for the least amount of effort and expense? We are considering increasing the vacuum shut off switch to get more vacuum, hopefully, using a larger vacuum reservoir or installing a new master cylinder and vacuum booster. |
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I have a 1997 ford ranger and the ABS & the brake light are both on at the same time any sugestions.
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