Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Vans & Minivans Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Caravan/Voyager Brake Issues
79 messages, Last post on May 18, 2009 at 8:30 AM
You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Forum. Your Host is Karens
|
The rear brake lines from the ABS to the back need to be replaced because they have rusted through. I discussed this with the two dealers. One says the brake line are special order. The other says the line is roll steel and must be fabricated. Estimates are $400 and $600 respectively. At first it appears to be an easy job of unbolting the lines at the ABS unit to the back axle. But after a second look,the ABS support bracket is in the way. What is involved in removing this bracket? |
|
|
|
What is the proper way to remove rear drums on a 2001 caravan? What size bolts are used to remove the drum?
|
|
|
Replying to: bobconstance (Jan 16, 2007 6:07 am) I believe the (2) bolt holes in the drum face will accomodate a M8x1" (metric fine)in use with a flat bar puller where a large centre bolt pushes the drum away from the centre hub. The centre of the drum may be seized so high heat and penetrating fluid may be required (drill holes through the drum around the centre hub if disposing)to break the grip.On the backside of the drum plate remove the oval rubber seal and access the star wheel with a slot screwdriver turning the adjuster down to pull in the brake shoes to create a clearance between the shoes and inside drum. The inside parking brake cable may be slightly in the way so use a flashlight to manipulate the adjuster. When replacing make sure the drum is clean and spread high heat anti-corrosion compound to ease any future drum removal
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: pmary (Jan 16, 2007 1:57 pm) |
|
| The 2 threaded holes on the face of the drum can accomodate a puller being secured by 2 bolts. The depth of the holes or the thickness of the drum (face)is about 1/8"(4 threads)deep. Make sure the length of the bolts will at least exceed the thickness of the drum (face)and the thickness of the puller's arm itself. Attaching the bolts too short into the drum could easily stip the thread holes - rendering it un-pullable. | |
|
Hi All - I have a 2000 Grand Caravan with a pesky ABS light that keeps coming on.. It is only after you drive the car a little and seems to reset itself after turning the car off... It has only 85,000 miles on it and to be honest I am not happy with it... I had it in to put in a new transmission (YES IT JUST DIED ON THE HIGHWAY 200 miles from home) In the dang thing and at that time they told me that it would need a new ABS pump.... At a cost of an other 1000 dollars... I have since been driving the Van with no reall braking issues other than no ABS... But would like to get it fixed as we will be holding on to it for a while longer... First question is Being a motor head of sorts, Is it possible to do the work my self? If so are there any manuals out there to make it easier? By looking at it it seems rather point blank easy bolt on... And then Bleed... Of couse it would need a change of break fluid...  Any body done this out there??? |
|
|
My 2006 Chryler minivan had to have its disc brakes turned at 12500km. I thinkits way too early to have this done already. Symptoms were shaking/pulsating brakes. Is there any recall on this or is there an issue chrysler knows about? Thanks
|
|
| My parking hand brake on my voyager will not hold. All cables are in good order and so are the brakes themselves. The brake lever will ride all the way up and cables do tension however I can nott find any way of adjusting them so they tension enough to hold the car. Help please!!! | |
|
|
|
|
|
I have a '92 Grand Caravan LE, 171,000 miles. Need to keep it running for another 6 months if possible. For several months now the antilock and Brake Warning lights have been coming on, then going off after driving . I was told by my regular mechanic that he thinks there is a small leak in the ABS system. Now both warning lights are on all the time and more frequently the brakes are really stiff and hard to apply. Les Schaub says they can't fix it, thinks the Power Booster isn't pressurizing the system. (Pre-'95, models have ABS and Power Boost tied into each other so I can't just shut down the ABS system) I know it is probably not worth fixing if it comes to over $1000, car is not worth that much. I would like to have an extensive diagnostic test done on it that I can trust. I'm hoping that if it is just the Booster or one component of the system (a pressure switch, transducer, proportioning valve, etc....) it would be a lot cheaper to fix. I'm afraid that if I take it to the dealer they will just replace the whole thing and charge me $3,000. My repair manual seems to indicate it might be just the hydraulic bladder accumulator (is that the same as the booster?) I live near Vancouver, WA so if you know any brake guys you can trust I would be eternally grateful. Any thoughts would be appreciated, thanks!
|
|
You are here:
Forums
Vans & Minivans Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Caravan/Voyager Brake Issues
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Dodge Grand Caravan
2003 Chrysler Voyager
2000 Plymouth Voyager
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
