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Sedans Chevrolet Impala Chevrolet Impala Brakes
31 messages, Last post on Sep 04, 2008 at 12:46 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Impala Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: cnw (Jun 27, 2007 3:18 pm) Here is the procedure from the GM Manual. Park Brake Adjustment Tools Required J 21177-A Drum-to-Brake Shoe Clearance Gage 1. Apply and fully release the parking brake six times. 2. Verify that the parking brake pedal releases completely. -Turn ON the ignition. Verify that the BRAKE indicator lamp is off. -If the BRAKE indicator lamp is on, ensure that: the parking brake pedal is in release mode and fully returned to stop. Remove the slack in the front parking brake cable by pulling downward on the cable. 3. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. 4. Remove the rear tire and wheel assemblies. 5. Remove both rear caliper brackets. 6. Relieve tension on the park brake system at the park brake equalizer. 7. Remove both rear brake rotors. 8. Set the J 21177-A inside of the park brake drum at the widest point. -Place the contacts on the tool to the widest point of the drum. -Tighten the set screw on the tool to ensure the proper measurement when removing the tool from the drum. 9. Position the J 21177-A over the park brake shoe at the widest point. 10. brake shoe just contacts the J 21177-A. 11. Repeat steps 8-10 for the opposite side. 12. Install both rear brake rotors. 13. Install both rear caliper brackets. 14. Install the rear tire and wheel assemblies. 15. Adjust the parking brake by turning the nut at the equalizer while spinning both rear wheels. When either rear wheel starts to drag, back off the nut one full turn. 16. Lower the vehicle to curb height. 17. Apply the parking brake, then inspect for rotation of the rear wheels. If the rear wheels rotate during this inspection, then readjust the parking brake shoes. 18. Release the parking brake. Verify that the wheels rotate freely. 19.Lower the vehicle.
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Replying to: 0patience (Jul 29, 2007 1:49 pm) |
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I just got 2001 Impala LS 3.8L 144K,2 weeks ago. When I took the test drive, I felt a noise when I push the brake all the way down. However, when I double checked the noise was gone, so I just thought I felt something that did not exsit. Three days before, when I drove in the snow, the noise came up again when I push brake quickly with a very slight trembling. It seems that I can feel the break pad touch the disc. Is there anyone have the same problem? and how do you fix it. Thank you!
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Replying to: linw (Jan 04, 2008 9:29 pm)
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Replying to: nosirrahg (Jan 07, 2008 8:40 pm) |
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Replying to: linw (Jan 04, 2008 9:29 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 08, 2008 11:36 am)  My sister just had an accident where she failed to negotiate a turn. She told me that the whole time she was approaching the guard rail that she inevitably hit, the only thought going through her mind was, "don't hit the brakes, don't hit the brakes!" She was taught this over 30 yrs ago and just wasn't fully aware of the capabilities of modern cars. Most likely, if she HAD used her brakes, there would've been no accident at all. Those of us who try to stay informed often assume that everyone knows of these (now) extremely common safety features on cars. However, you'd likely be surprised to find out how many have no idea.
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Replying to: quietpro (Jan 10, 2008 5:46 am)
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Replying to: cnw (Jan 10, 2008 7:50 pm) Thanks for your concern. Yes, she is fine (and so is her grandaughter). The car had $3K in damage, I believe, but she was fully insured. The repairs only took a couple days however, they did notice the new bumper had not lined up evenly. The body shop said it isn't possible to get it even but I wholeheartedly disagree. She's not the confrontational type but I think she's going to get her husband involved. I told her to tell her insurance company about it as they would very likely demand it be done right. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ron
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Replying to: quietpro (Jan 19, 2008 4:26 pm) I agree with your assessment. I think the body shop is just attempting to say, "It's too hard to get it right and I don't want to put that amount of effort in it." I think the insurance company should support your sister; the intent is to return it to "as good as new" condition. If they accept less than quality work, where do they draw the line--shabby paint (orange peel, over-spray, thin color coat, etc), uneven filling/sanding, mis-matched colors? Granted, those are extreme examples, but if they accept less than quality in any area, then they're setting themselves up for any or all of the above. Your sister pays insurance premiums based on the understanding that damages will be corrected; my interpretation of correct is "unable to distinguish that a repair has been made." Regards, Clark
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