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Sedans Chevrolet Impala Chevrolet Impala Climate Control/AC/Heater
77 messages, Last post on Oct 01, 2009 at 3:25 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Impala Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Hi, I would like some help my 06 impala keeps saying tighten gas cap, so I bought another gas cap now they are saying it could be a leak something about a vacum/evap leak. My engine light is on and want go off even after replacing the gas cap. Also, when driving my heat works fine but when I stop or sit the heat becomes extremely cold air. Can somebody tell me whats going on????
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Replying to: sparkle247 (Oct 22, 2008 9:32 pm) |
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I bought my Impala new. I live in Florida, so don't use the heat all that much. The first winter I had it I used the heat a few times and noticed the heat would stop whenever I stopped the car. The air will continue to blow, but no heat. Once I go again, the heat works great. I kept forgetting about it until this morning when it was 40 something degrees. I turned the heat on and soon as I stopped at first redlight it reminded me of the problem again. I've read most of the forums and can't sem to find anyone addressing this issue. I do have the remote start if that has anything to do with it. Other than that, great car. I love it and no other problems. I have an 02 Impala also and it has the actuator problems described in this forum. Thanks for the info on that folks. I'll replace it soon. |
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| I have a 2006 Impala. The heater has a mind of it's own I guess. It only works if the car is in motion over a certian speed. When I stop at a red light or anywhere else after about 15 seconds it starts kicking out cold air. And in the mornings the engine temp may be where it is supposed to be but takes a little bit for any warm air to come out. What could be causing this? The Thermostat or something a little more major? | |
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| Weird issue. I have 2006 LT 3.9L. Noticed using remote start after 2 cycles when I get in the car, the car is still cold inside even though engine is warm. As soon as you hit the gas it starts blowing hot air. Tried going out and starting with the key this morning. Same thing. I had it set to defrost blowing on high and does the same thing so it's not just a remote issue. Haven't tried setting it to heat instead of defrost, will try that next. Just had water pump and thermostat replaced (well they said the thermostat was part of the water pump kit, I'm not sure). Levels are all fine. Seems to do fine when idling at stop lights etc other than blower doesn't blow as hard as it does when you're accelerating. Any ideas? | |
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2005 Impala LS 3.8 liter. Dual climate control. Very low heat, mostly cool air at max temperature setting for either driver or passenger. Move either control to cold, get all cold air on that side. Move either control to hot, get slightly warmer air on that side. These actuators seem to work correctly and independent. Changing selection from defrost, vent, floor, or mix works like it should. Just get very low heat, mostly cool air. Coolant level is good. New thermostat. Heater hoses going into and out of heater core are hot and at same temperature. This morning, will all quiet and cold, I could hear each actuator motor as each control setting was selected. Hot/cold drivers side, hot/cold passenger side, and mode selection (defrost, vent, floor). The wind of the motors all sounded normal and alike and no clunky indicating a jam. Is there a 3rd common actuator? What is part number? What is it called? Where is it located? Is this a difficult do-it-yourself job? I am cheap and do most work myself, regardless of what it is. How much tear down of dash is required? Thanks in advance, Max 
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For those of you having issues with '06+ Impalas where the heater blows cold at idle, and then hot while moving, there are a couple of things to look for. Last week the water pump on my '06 Impala failed. When it happened (and aside from coolant being spewed all over the engine), the heater would only blow hot air while the car was in motion. At stoplights, or while just idling, it was cold. 1. Make sure your coolant (Dex-cool) level is where it should be. If coolant is low, the heater will not work as well. 2. Make sure the radiator cap is an 18psi cap, as opposed to a 15psi cap. When my water pump first failed, I erroneously thought it was a faulty radiator cap. I bought a 15psi replacement and installed it. The next morning, the dealer replaced the water pump and left the 15psi cap on the radiator. Even after the repair, I was having the heater issue. I reinstalled the factory 18psi cap later that night, and heater function went back to normal. The system needs the extra pressure. 3. If your coolant level is normal, and you have the 18psi radiator cap, the system most likely has an air bubble in it somewhere preventing coolant from making it all the way through the heater hoses. You can try turning the heat all the way up for several minutes while driving to see if you can eliminate minor air bubbles. That may force enough coolant through the system to "pop" the bubbles. If that doesn't work, you may need to have the system flushed and re-filled to get rid of the bubbles. This is actually a common issue with the '06+ Impalas. |
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HELP! I'm having 2 issues with 01 Impala heat. Problem 1 -- Blower is working inconsistently, and in my cold location, this can be dangerous. Heat will work fine for weeks, then will stop working for no apparent reason. 2 WEEKS AGO, our local mechanic replaced the Resistor (blower motor) and I hoped that would solve the problem, but yesterday after driving for about 5 minutes, the blower quit again. I pulled into a parking lot, turned off the car, re-started the car and the blower came back on for about 5 seconds, then quit again. I drove for about 5 minutes, and the blower kicked back on and worked fine for the rest of the afternoon while I was out running errands. When this situation has happened in the past, I've tried all the different fan settings, tried to change from recirculate to fresh (nothing happens). Also, the back window blower quits working. Problem 2 -- when the heat does work, the interior never really warms up to the point of being comfortable. Even after driving 45 minutes on the expressways, the temperature gauge only registers right above the very lowest reading on the dash of 140. Coolant level is OK. Any help would be much appreciated! |
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Replying to: doitmyselfer1 (Nov 23, 2007 4:13 pm) Being the geek engineer I am, I tested the failed unit and found it didn't work with 12 VDC. Upon opening the case with careful manipulation of the snap tabs, I saw what could be the problem, the buss bars from the connector to the motor are crimped onto the motor terminals. Carefully removing the motor, a brushed DC perm. magnet unit, it worked! I crimped the connections, then reassembled and reindexed the unit so it will reassemble. It worked with the reindexing...must be a potentiometer on the draft door and some kind of H-bridge to control direction...yeah, that is the engineer speaking. I found the tool for the job was my flexy-extending screwdriver. But I didn't have a 7/32" socket that would fit into its 1/4" hex head...so I took a foundling Torx bit and using a knife hone, took off 2 opposing corners so it would fit into the 1/4" square socket. This was PLENTY of strength to remove the self-tapping screws. And install them too. Again, many thanks. And this little tip MAY prove to be the critical failure. Metal fatigue in these clips IS definite as they appear to be annealed copper, tin plated. If it happens again, a drop of carefully applied 63/37 electronics solder WILL fix it. Pb free, RoHS approved solder has caused satellites to fail. I don't think solder is all that hazardous but in any case, I have a few pounds for my hobby work. Mechanical, if you need to know what kind of engineer. I couldn't handle that phasor stuff. Now tensors? They are cool..
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Replying to: Keith_J (Dec 19, 2008 11:31 pm)
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