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Dodge Dakota Electrical Problems

391 messages,  Last post on Nov 29, 2009 at 5:56 PM

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#319 of 391 Reverse lights dont work by kristens106 Apr 21, 2009 (6:28 pm)
I have a 98 dodge dakota,3.9L,auto.The reverse lights work but not in reverse.On the dash it is between P and R.sounds like the shift cable needs to be adjusted just not sure how...help?
#320 of 391 1999 Dakota by apb1952 Apr 30, 2009 (9:21 am)
i have a 1999 Dodge Dakota, previous owner had a electrical harness for towing and it was mangled and hanging so I removed it and now turn signals are flashing fast and no front turn signals at all
#321 of 391 Re: rapid blinking turn signal [Greg1952] by apb1952 Apr 30, 2009 (11:33 am)
Replying to: Greg1952 (Feb 05, 2009 9:22 pm) i think you are correct, i think i need a T10 to get the assembly off
#322 of 391 Re: Help with electrical problem [bassetgirl] by djorn Apr 30, 2009 (12:41 pm)
Replying to: bassetgirl (Jan 21, 2007 5:23 pm) We have the exact problem now and the truck just dies out of nowhere. Did you find out what it was? We're going nuts with this!! The truck runs great and it just stops, and we gt the no bus message in the odometer. If we give it a minute, it starts back up. Any information to help?
#323 of 391 Blower Problem by jwyatt May 10, 2009 (10:06 am)
I got no response from this in another posting,so I am reposting it here:   2K Dakota Slut Truck 4.7L Auto 4wd 168K miles I have an unusual blower problem with the heater/AC. It always seems to work when I first start the truck. If I stop after a while and then restart after a short while, the fan will not work at any speed. With the AC on, one can detect that the compressor is working, and cool air will come from the vents at speed. At highway speeds, the fan generally will come on after a while.    I am unsure as to whether it is the resistor or if the blower motor is going out in light of the blower's starting after getting to highway speeds. Is the AC or ambient air cooling the resistor enough to restart, or is the highway speed and air induction coming through the vents giving the blower motor enough oomph to start again?    Anyone have any ideas? Jim   Since the above was posted, the blower has stopped working alltogether. Analyzing the problem, It seems to me as if the problem is not the resistor, but I was looking around the fuse box and found a blower relay which I think might be the problem. I hope to get a response here.   Jim Replies to this message: rab211 (Jul 22, 2009 2:49 pm)
#324 of 391 tranny wiring harness short by davem33 Jun 06, 2009 (9:04 am)
My 2001 dakota 4x4 w/4.7 auto & OD gets the CEL, and gives codes 0720 & 0715, but when all is checked, the sensors are all good, so I expect a short in the harness between the TCM and Input/Output sensors. Dodge has now charged me over $800 and cannot seem to "find" the real problem. This failure results in no shifting out of 1st at all when in drive, with OD on or off, but I can limp along in second just fine as long as I don't go over 40 mph. Funny, but there are a series of "speed bumps" on one particular road that I can drive over that somehow temporarily fixes the short and allows the signals to get through and all shifts well for a while. I never know when the short will reappear. HELP! Replies to this message: jwyatt (Jun 06, 2009 10:23 am)
#325 of 391 Re: tranny wiring harness short [davem33] by jwyatt Jun 06, 2009 (10:23 am)
Replying to: davem33 (Jun 06, 2009 9:04 am) Hey, Dave, don't hold your breath waiting on a reply here unless you are a member of the "in" clique. I got no response on my query about the blower motor on my slut truck.   If anyone is interested in the symptoms I encountered, it was the blower motor at fault. It finally started making a noise when it was working. Replaced the motor which required pulling the dash. I also had the heater core replaced because of the mileage. AC evaporator had been replaced previously, so this is the second time for pulling the dash out. If anyone has similiar problems, do all three at once, evaporator, heater core, and blower motor as it is 5 plus hours labor. Doing the motor, heater core, AC charge, and wiper blades was $665. Evaporator done last year was $800 plus, so I think the indie garage gave me a break.   Good luck on the erratic xmission problem.   Jim
#326 of 391 Re: 95 Dodge Dakota head, tail, and dash lights are out [lgoodwin] by crabylarry Jun 06, 2009 (8:49 pm)
Replying to: lgoodwin (Mar 25, 2009 1:37 pm) Did you ever resolve this issue? I have the same problem and had to take the vehicle off the road until fixed. Replies to this message: doug (Jul 05, 2009 4:22 pm) oilcanman (Aug 21, 2009 6:18 am)
#327 of 391 Re: 2001 Dakota 2w horn/remote glitch [rdognc] by rdownward Jun 09, 2009 (1:18 pm)
Replying to: rdognc (Oct 11, 2008 2:16 pm) If you haven't already found the solution to your problem in the forum postings, here it is. Your problem is the Central Timer & Alarm Module. You will need to replace the module to solve your problem. They are available from any Dodge dealership or I ordered one on-line from MoparPartsAmerica.com at a cost of $174.80 plus shipping. Once you replace the module, you will have to go to a dealership service department and have them re-program your remote key fobs. It requires an OBDII code reader and specific instructions from the service manual to do it. I found a helpful guy at a local dealership here who did it for nothing, but you should expect to pay for 30 minutes labor if you can't find a good samaritan to do it for you. The module is located behind the driver's side kick plate just in front of the driver's door. It has two retainers that hold it in place and can be removed by pulling the bottom toward the back door first and then sliding the top tab out and pulling it the rest of the way out. There are three plugs on the module. Just replace the module and then plug the three plugs into their respective receptacles. It's a fast and easy fix. Hope this helps.
#328 of 391 headlight problems by jd110 Jun 09, 2009 (3:03 pm)
I have a 2000 Dakota, headlights stopped working and I determined it was the headlight switch and replaced it. All worked fine until I turned on the high beams and the new switch immediately burned out. Any Ideas?

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