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Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota Electrical Problems
422 messages, Last post on Mar 21, 2010 at 6:53 PM
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Similar to a post last month, my dome/cab light stays on after I start the engine in my 99 Dakota. So I am currently driving around with the dome light on. It does eventually turn off after the engine is shut off, the key is removed, and the door is closed. I think the final thought, on the previous post, was that the CTM had gone bad. I have a couple of other questions. 0) Does that sound logical here? 1) Where is the CTM located and what does it look like? 2) Can I replace it myself? 3) Does the module need to be programed by the dealer? 4) About how much should a programed CTM cost? 5) Is the only place to buy it at the dealer? Thanks Mike
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I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota Sport. My dash lights and tail lights do not work. Checked the fuses and it was blown. I replaced it everything was fine for a few days. Today got in truck rode down the road suddenly no dash or taillights. Fuse blown changed it and the fuse blew again. Please tell me how to look for the short or if anyone has any idea how to fix this I would greatly appreciate it . Thank you SBoyle 
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Replying to: mchase (Jan 06, 2009 3:50 pm) Yes. 1) Where is the CTM located and what does it look like? I'm not positive on '99s, but on 2001s an up the CTM is located behind the driver's kick panel (Cowl Side Inner Panel) on the left side of the cab, approximately where your left foot would rest while driving. The CTM is a relatively square-looking module and has three connectors. 2) Can I replace it myself? Absolutely. 3) Does the module need to be programed by the dealer? No. 4) About how much should a programed CTM cost? N/A 5) Is the only place to buy it at the dealer? They were about $170 from Dodge the last time I needed one. I believe they are available from places like Auto Zone, etc. I'm sure they're cheaper at an auto parts store. Regards, Dusty
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This must be a short somewhere. 1998 SLT 4x4 5.2L has been remarkably trouble free for it's 100K miles. Looked out the window and thought someone was trying to make off with the truck, but there was no one around, and ignition was off, but brake lights were on. Jiggled, then disconnected the switch on the brake pedal arm and observed no change. Turn signal overrides the short and the lamps blink appropriately. Disconnected the lights and trailer plug but still getting a live brake light signal at the harness connector at the back. I plugged everything back in and the lights were out. Now I see them staying on sometimes and going off otherwise. I love intermittent problems. Just found this site and thought to throw this out, maybe there might be a suspected component before I start a long tedious search. If I had to guess, I would suspect the signal switch, but ....?? thanks a bunch. jjs
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Replying to: dustyk (Jan 10, 2009 11:21 am) Mike |
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Hi, i recently bought a 1997 Dodge Dakota Sport 3.9L V6. A couple weeks ago i was driving down the road and noticed my check gauges light started flashing. I ignored it and continued driving when all of a sudden the truck just died and lost all power. I flagged another truck down and asked for a jump thinking it was just a dead battery. So i got my truck jumped and continued on home. Not even 5 minutes later the check gauges light started to flash again. I kept driving and just as i pulled onto my street the truck died again. I then went and brought a brand new battery to see if that would help. The next day while driving it died again. So i had my father come down and give me a jump and just made it back home. I decided to get a new alternator thinking that would be the next probable cause. But again after replacing the alternator the truck died and would not hold a charge. I then decided to have a look at all the fuses. All fuses were fine but i noticed that the power distribution box looked to be missing a wire running from the 140 amp alternator fuse??. It has one wire feeding into it from the positive terminal of the battery but looks to be missing a wire coming out the other side??????? Just wondering if there should be a wire feeding into each side of the alternator amp????
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Replying to: bonobo12 (Jan 10, 2009 12:20 pm) Regards, Dusty |
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Replying to: Classick604 (Jan 19, 2009 9:40 pm) I wonder if you are referring to the fusible link? I can't for the life of me figure out how something could be missing on a vehicle that ran fine one minute then died another. Let's approach this another way. Connect a voltmeter to the correct terminals of the battery (positive meter lead to positive post; negative meter lead to negative post). You should be reading something over +12.5 volts with a fully charged battery. A partially drained battery will yield a lower voltage. Start the engine. If you are in a cold weather area of the country, the voltmeter should be reading anywhere from +13 to +14.7 volts at initial start up and slowly drop as the battery charges. If the voltage drops from your initial reading after start up, the battery is not receiving any charge current from the alternator. This then is the problem to troubleshoot. If the battery is receiving a charge, you probably have an intermittent problem. Check for bad connections at the alternator, Power Distribution Center (PDC), and to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Regards, Dusty |
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hey guys... i have a 2000 dakota QC manul 6 cylinder. i replaced the battery recently. when i drive with my headlights on...the lights start flickering. (headlights, dashlights..pretty much all the lights) also i hear this clicking when the lights are flickering. when the car is off and just sitting there, i c in the headlight that there is a very dim light that is on. i have to 2 disconnect the battery so it wont drain my battery. plz help!
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Replying to: dznutz1886 (Jan 24, 2009 1:20 am) |
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