Last post on Nov 13, 2013 at 2:30 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota-2010 and older
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Dodge Dakota, Electrical, Truck
#251 of 509 Re: 1995 Dodge Dakota 2wd 5sp Manual, electrical gremlin [twizted]
Oct 11, 2008 (9:34 pm)
I correct, I think I have further isolated the problem, and will work on it. SPecifically, I've taken to having two fully charged batteries with me, one for the trip TO someplace, and if I can't find a hill to park on, the trip BACK. I did notice, however, that the problem of the battery draining occurs now when I use the lights, and with nothing else drawing power. I have to NOW check every line leading to the lights, to isolate the problem, because I feel that it is indicative of a short in the lighting system.
Any specific thoughts on where I should look?
I will also consider the budget fix for the plugs and distributor, but I can actually replace those on Wednesday. Any other problems I might want to be concerned about for the upcoming winter? Things old Dodges are known to do in the winter?
I was going to invest in a plug-in style oilpan warmer, just for shits and giggles. Can't hurt, and a buddy has one for $10. Cheap, in my book.
Any thoughts? By the way, you have been a wealth of knowledge, and I want to express my gratitude and thanks for all you have suggested. it's been immensely helpful.
#252 of 509 Re: 1995 Dodge Dakota 2wd 5sp Manual, electrical gremlin [twizted]
Oct 12, 2008 (4:03 pm)
my suggestion in append #235 still applies here. The digital meter from WallyMart which plugs into the cigarette-lighter socket runs about $12. With it, you should be able to make some determinations about your charging system. (both with lights "off" and "on")
In reguards to your question about an oil-pan warmer... I would not mess with it. It may warm up the oil a bit, but the oil instantly gets cold again once you start the engine and it is pumped into the stone-cold steel of the engine-block.
If you really NEED an engine-heater, consider a frost-plug heater which actually heats up the antifreeze within the engine. (I have one on my Dak)
Also, unless you can afford significant jump in your electric-bill, any engine-heater needs to be controled with a timer. (dont just leave it plugged in all night)
#253 of 509 Re: 1995 Dodge Dakota 2wd 5sp Manual, electrical gremlin [bpeebles]
Oct 14, 2008 (9:27 am)
Noted! Yes, I have a timer, I use it for plants during the day with their growth light. (I like palms, not anything more... exotic)
I will pick up the plug from wallymart tomorrow to check the running gauge, lights/accessories on/off. If I can isolate it to one accessory, I'll then have to figure out where in the line the short is, correct? It's been my experience that this is usually at a connection, or at a harness location, or someplace where the line does a turn or a rub on something. Anything else I should look for? Anything specific I should avoid?
Like I said, tested with a voltmeter, all the fuse runs work FINE, it's just a very intermittent problem and that's the frustrating thing. I'm half-tempted to just sell the damn thing, I got an offer for $500 more than I paid for it. Maybe I should just cut and run, if I can find a replacement vehicle?
I took another chance on Dodges because I wanted a manual, and it was the right size. Maybe now's the time to take a step back and try something else.
#254 of 509 Re: Radio and Turn Signal cuts off while driving [brake4me1]
Oct 18, 2008 (12:19 pm)
Hey... I have the same problem but after 2.5 hours of trouble shooting, I traced it to the culprit. If you take the steering column apart, look for a module that is mounted to the left side of the steering column, next to the signal lever/switch. The module will most likely have the name Valeo stamped into the side of it. This, I believe, is called the ignition switch module. Inside the switch module, there is a nylon or plastic dial that pushes contacts together inside when the key is turned in the ignition. You can actually pull this module off and simulate the key turning through all it's ranges. The purpose of the module is to provide electrical contact connections to the radio or dash or what have you when the key is turned. What I found is happening is that when there is ANY kind of pressure put on the assembly between the portion that slides into the rest of the ignition assembly and the body, the 2 contacts that are responsible for the radio/signal power are pulled apart enough to cut the power to the radio/signal lights. The wires associated to that connection are the red (16 AWG) wire which supplies +12VDC and the BLK/WHT (20 AWG) wire. I have not been able to resolve this yet as it appears to be a wear & tear problem. When plastic/nylon rubs against metallic parts over a period of almost 8 years, this is bound to happen. I have a feeling that I will need to replace the component. I have no idea what this is going to cost. Other than that, I figure I saved myself about 3 or 4 hours of mechanical labor. Next step is to price out the new component. If I could post pics, I would. Cheers!
#255 of 509 Re: All my lights in my 2001 Dakota blink off [dpafrog]
Nov 10, 2008 (3:02 pm)
I have the same problem with my '05. Where is the switch ?
#256 of 509 Re: All my lights in my 2001 Dakota blink off [cm2381]
Nov 13, 2008 (6:59 am)
Just to let you know I have the same problem and I am not bad at these type problems but I let you know what I've done. I have replaced headlight switch then a guy told me he had the same problem and it was the dimmer so I replaced it. Then I cleaned all the grounds under the hood and the frame to body and added a ground directly to the head light switch and a ground from the dash to the firewall and still have the same problem. Right know I am going to disconect my altenator to see if it has a short if it does not I am going to the rear of the truck and start their. I will let you know what happens I have been fighting this for two months and no one at dodge has been able to find it either. Wes
#257 of 509 Headlight problems after rental trailer
Nov 19, 2008 (7:27 pm)
I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota Sport. I rented a trailer this past weekend. When I tested the lights at the rental lot, the side lights on the trailer that are supposed to come on with headlights, didn't come on. At the time, I thought it was just a connection problem with the trailer (I didn't look to see if my headlights were on at the time). Since then, my headlights aren't working. My initial assumption was that there was a short in the trailer that blew a fuse, but the headlight fuse is fine. I even replaced it to be sure. Any thoughts? I read a previous post about something similar (post #200), but I didn't see any responses to that. Nor are my problems that odd and intermittent. I'd appreciate any thoughts you have for me. Thanks!
#258 of 509 Re: 1995 Dodge Dakota 2wd 5sp Manual, electrical gremlin [twizted]
Dec 10, 2008 (3:40 pm)
I am having a simalar problem although my battery cables were put on backward (pos on neg neg on pos) my battery will not charge now. it is a 1995 dakota with a 318. I have checked the alt it is ok and i installed a new battery and still not charging. please help
#259 of 509 95 dakota battery not charging
Dec 10, 2008 (4:40 pm)
have a 1995 dakota with a 318 the battery was put in backward (pos on neg neg on pos) now the battery will not charge I replaced the battery and the alternator and still not charging.
#260 of 509 Re: 95 dakota battery not charging [wdmar]
Dec 11, 2008 (11:25 am)
Well, you could have fried a part of the system, such as the brain, and that's a hell of a gremlin to find. HOwever, I'll help if I can. Nice move, with the battery. Hope that wasn't your doing.
Ok, since I got mine fixed, here's what I suggest: FIRST, swap the cables so you are properly able to take advice, and get a good ground, and et cetera.
Second, make sure EVERY SINGLE GROUND in the engine is solid and clean. I took all the bolts out, scrubbed them down to metal on both parts, and the frame, and reconnected.
Third, check every inch of wire, just to be sure that you're not having something short or ground out where it's not supposed to.
I also noticed that I have a problem with my Alternator Tension Bolt rattling loose, and thus the alternator is not turning with the engine, and therefore not charging. Tight=charging. Check it,k?
Hope this helps.
Oh, and replace the battery and possibly the Alternator. Take the alternator to the auto shop and have it bench tested to see if it's operating fully, and at amperage.
Best to you.