- #61 of 384
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Re: 2002 Dakota SLT "Racing" idle problem [gphillippi]
by jebsdaddy
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Nov 28, 2006 (6:40 pm)
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Replying to: gphillippi (Nov 06, 2006 10:45 am)
I have the same problem with my 2001 4.7 5 spd. with 168,000 miles. I changed the idle air control motor, had the pcm re-flashed and finally chg'd the throttle position sensor. The last item seems to have fixed it so far. hopefully.
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- #62 of 384
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Re: 2002 Dakota SLT "Racing" idle problem [jebsdaddy]
by moquelvog
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Nov 28, 2006 (6:57 pm)
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Replying to: jebsdaddy (Nov 28, 2006 6:40 pm)
I actually haven't had the problem anymore. When the truck is cold, it idles a little higher, but other than that no problems. Maybe just a fluke...I don't know. Thanks anyway.
Omen
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- #63 of 384
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Re: CRANK CRANK CRANK [manstang46]
by dritten01
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Dec 01, 2006 (10:52 am)
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Replying to: manstang46 (Nov 08, 2006 2:34 pm)
I have a 2000 Quad cab 4x4 4.7 auto that does the same thing. I have to crank it for a few seconds, or try again before it starts. Mine also spits and sputters every so often. If you figure it out let me know...
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- #64 of 384
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Re: CRANK CRANK CRANK [dritten01]
by archiprelate
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Dec 09, 2006 (5:15 pm)
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Replying to: dritten01 (Dec 01, 2006 10:52 am)
I have a 99 dakota sport with the 2.5 liter engine that had a similar problem and it ended up being a bad fuel pressure regulator. When the regulators fail, it's usually the diaphram inside and they'll leak fuel pressure down back to the tank when you shut the key off. So instead of getting in and turning the key and it starting right up, the fuel pump has to spin for a few seconds to build up enough pressure and volume. When it gets real bad, you can have a rough idle at first, mine did after it had the problem for awhile. If you want to try a a quick preliminary test, cycle the ignition key on and off 3-5 times leaving it on for at least a second and see if it starts no problem after that. If that doesn't work or if you want to do further testing (I would), find the line going from the fuel rail to the regulator in the tank. Chrysler uses a returnless fuel system so there should only be one line. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and have someone start the truck up and let it run till it stops sputtering. Shut the key off and see if the pressure drops down to zero or dramatically. If it does, start the truck again and let it run till it stops sputtering then have your assistant shut the truck off while you pinch the fuel line off with a pair of pinch of pliers or vise grips with rags stuffed in the jaws. If the fuel pressure stays constant with line pinched off and then drops when you release the pliers, you've found your problem. On my truck, the fuel line was a hard line at the fuel rail and so I had to connect a piece of rubber hose between the fuel line and the fuel rail in order to do this. If it continues to leak down, then one or more of your injectors is leaking, though it would probably run rich and and experience drive ability problems all the time if this were the case. The fuel pressure regulator on my truck (and probably yours) is integral to the fuel pump assembly and had to be replaced as a unit. I'm not sure what the cost would be on a 4.7L pump but the one for my 2.5L ran about $325 with taxes and freight shipping. Just thought I'd give my 2 cents, good luck!
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- #65 of 384
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Fan stay on - constantly
by retrohwam
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Dec 11, 2006 (10:51 am)
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Have a 98 Dokata with the 2.5 and we're having a problem. The radiator fan will not cut off - after shutting off the vehicle you have to unplug the connector to get the fan to stop. Plugging in back in later (doesn't matter how much later) the fan kicks on prior to the starting the engine.
The temperature guage reads low except when my son forgets to plug the fan in and then it reads high.
My first thought is a coolant temperature sensor problem but I'm not sure as it never seems to "reset" - could the sensor be shorted out and that be what's causing it to run continously?
Any help would be appreciated.
Duane
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- #66 of 384
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Re: Fan stay on - constantly [retrohwam]
by bpeebles
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Dec 11, 2006 (2:52 pm)
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Replying to: retrohwam (Dec 11, 2006 10:51 am)
I beleive there is a fanswithch screwed into the radiator which energizes the fan when the coolant is hot.... I suppose it could get stuck in the HOT (ON) position.
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- #67 of 384
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Re: Dodge Dakota: Engine/Underhood Questions [dustyk]
by reddakota02
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Jan 04, 2007 (2:45 pm)
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Replying to: dustyk (Oct 26, 2006 6:09 pm)
Thanks, I think I'll go to a couple of different dealers and see what they say. I know they extended the warranty on the ball joints to 100,000 miles.
My thought is that if it is the "steering knuckle" as I was told, I should look to see if Dodge beefed it up in later model years and take them to task for my problem.
As for the window, I bought an ice scrapper from autozone and it scratched the windshield, but didn't scratch any of the other windows or the windshield of other cars/trucks I tested.
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- #68 of 384
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help my baby dakota get her head back on
by eaglefeather
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Jan 08, 2007 (11:32 pm)
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I am new here I bought my dak brand new and took xclnt care of her until recently i have a car im scared to drive if your on here please respond
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- #69 of 384
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Re: Evap Purge Solenoid [bpeebles]
by eaglefeather
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Jan 08, 2007 (11:55 pm)
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Replying to: bpeebles (Nov 08, 2006 7:00 pm)
luckily my gas cap fits its factory Im new here yet I bought my baby dakota afew years back i lloovvee it I need serious help does anyone have a printable of what my truck should look like from the underside? also does anyone know how to access a detailed list of parts, equiptment, and accessories I purchased maybe even with each parts s#'s on a report.     
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- #70 of 384
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Re: heater problems [nbass]
by rudako
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Jan 15, 2007 (7:27 pm)
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Replying to: nbass (Oct 18, 2006 4:46 pm)
I have the same problem with my 97 V6 4x4 extended cab Dakota, I have changed the thermostat twice to a higher temperature, 97 degrees but I have had no luck. If I find out what it is I will post right away.
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