You are here:
Forums
Pickups
Dodge Dakota
Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions

377 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 5:17 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota Forum. Your Host is kcram
|
|
|---|---|
|
Replying to: moquelvog (Mar 31, 2008 3:51 pm) |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: nenisi (Dec 13, 2008 7:43 am) |
|
|
|
| My 1992 dodge Dakota is a v6 3.9 liter and all of a sudden all the oil drained into the pistons and was burnt up. My question is where in the cylinder heads underneath the valve cover where are the oil drain holes in this motor? Can someone help me please?!! | |
I keep posting, but do not see a the posting or response. I've replaced lots of parts. i.e. plugs, plug wires, cam position sensor twice, fuel pump, crank sensor, coolant temperature sensor, fuel pump, etc. Tried another computer, lots of dry gas, fixed leaky vacuum hoses, new distributor and pick up inside twice. I'm probably forgetting some items. Truck runs like a dream when it is warm outside and for 10 to 12 minutes when it is cold. After the 10 to 12 minutes when it is cold it bucks violently and misfires for miles upon miles. I'm going to try a PCV valve tomorrow and check those hoses, but realistically, I feel like I'm grasping at straws and spending alot of money on nothing that helps. A 99 van has the same problem and Chrysler wants to throw a new wiring harness in! Yeah likes that's going to solve the problem! I have 155,000 miles on the 5 speed and love it when it is warm outside, but it is useless during the winter. Any constructive help would be greatly appreciated. I'm going broke and still don't have a reliable vehicle! Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I brohght a used 05 dakota, v8 4.7 2X4 with 180000km, the truck run great so far 82L gas tank can least about 450km, but starting couple month ago, full tank of gas only least about 300km, I live in northern area, winter need warm up the car before toke off on the road, but it still should not be that much of different, any one have idea is some thing go wrong with the truck or just the way to go. Thanks. |
|
|
Replying to: factman1 (Mar 24, 2009 2:57 pm)
|
|
|
Replying to: rich14 (Mar 30, 2009 1:48 am) |
|
|
That sound like the correct idle if you are going by the in dash tachometer. They aren't terrible accurate. The idle is suppose to be around 850 to 900 rpms. If there are no codes it will be a tough one to find. Any of these could be the problem. AIR FILTER Restricted or clogged air filter. FUEL FILTER <>Clogged or dirty fuel filter WIRESET Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). SPARK PLUG Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). PCV VALVE Plugged or damaged pcv valve. DISTRIBUTOR CAP Loose or cracked distributor cap AIR CHARGE SENSOR Damaged or faulty air charge sensor or air charge sensor circuit. AIR CLEANER TEMPERATURE SENSOR Damaged or faulty air cleaner temperature sensor or air cleaner temperature sensor circuit. BAROMETRIC PRESSURE SENSOR Damaged or faulty barometric pressure sensor or barometric pressure sensor circuit. FUEL INJECTOR COLD START VALVE Faulty cold start valve or circuit. FUEL INJECTOR PRESSURE REGULATOR Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit. FUEL INJECTION GSK <>Deteriorated, or faulty throttle valve mounting gasket IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE Damaged, loose, or faulty idle air control valve. IDLE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR <>Damaged, loose, or faulty idle speed actuator. MAP SENSOR <>Improperly connected or faulty m.a.p. sensor. MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR Improperly connected or faulty mass air flow sensor. THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Faulty throttle position sensor or throttle position sensor circuit. TIMING SET <>Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s). FUEL PUMP Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. FUEL TANK Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank. FUEL INJECTOR Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector. EGR VALVE Clogged, dirty or improperly functioning or defective egr valve. DISTRIBUTOR Worn, loose or incorrectly adjusted distributor. CAMSHAFT <>Worn or scored camshaft lobes may affect proper fuel intake, compression, combustion and exhaust. I would start with the PVC valve and EGR valve and circuit. Hope this helps, an accept would be appreciated. |
|
| I have a '97 Dakota V8 Magnum 318 5.2l. My problem is my oil pressure dropped after sitting without being driven for 2 mos. it doesn't move at all just sits on 0. I have replaced my sending unit and the oil pump...still the prob continues the engine has 203k mi on it so its not too bad, i use high mileage 10w30 castrol and bosch oil filter. in the engine compartment i could here a noise so i checked the lifters and they seem fine none broken or clogged but i'm beating myself up here trying to figure out what it could be. the noise continues as if the push rods and rocker arms aren't getting any oil. the higher the RPMs the louder and faster the noise. Please Help!!!! | |
You are here:
Forums
Pickups
Dodge Dakota
Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2009 Dodge Dakota



Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats