Last post on Sep 16, 2013 at 12:14 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota-2010 and older
What is this discussion about?
Dodge Dakota, Engine, Truck
#317 of 467 Re: dodge dakota, dodge ram charger piston swap [95f150]
Jan 20, 2009 (5:52 pm)
In 1992, Chrysler introduced the Magnum version of the 318 motor and made significant changes that would likely affect your desire to swap parts. I believe the connecting rods and pistons would probably interchange okay, but I'm not 100% sure. I'm not an expert in Mopar parts swapping.
The block uses a roller lifter camshaft and incorporates a different oiling method for the rockers. In addition, the push rod angled changed that means only a Magnum head would be compatible with a Magnum block, and conversely a non-Magnum block is only compatible with a non-Magnum cylinder head. The Magnum motor incorporates some lighter materials for the piston, and a high-swirl, highly efficient cylinder head.
Unless you are on a tight budget, I would recommend rebuilding or refreshing the '94 motor. If compression is low and the '94 engine has relatively low miles and had reasonably good maintenance, the problem will probably be in the cylinder head (punky or burnt valves, and/or worn valve guides, hardened valve guide seals, etc.). Unless there's a lot of cylinder wall scoring, Mopar blocks and piston rings seldom wear enough to represent a significant loss of cylinder pressure (compression). I've seen 318 and 360 motors with 150,000 miles on them that after a head refreshing registered the full service spec. compression. Of course, it all depends on how the motor was treated.
I'd also check the catalytic converter. After a lot of miles, and especially if the motor wasn't running great for a while, the converters start to clog and cause a serious performance problem.
#318 of 467 Re: [rumz]
Jan 20, 2009 (6:16 pm)
If the RPM drop is approximately 150 RPM, what you are probably feeling is the torque converter unlocking. This could be caused by a number of things not necessarily connected to the torque converter or the transmission. Possibilities are:
*Engine out of tune (worn or misfiring spark plugs, bad plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, etc.), dragging brakes, dirty throttlebody, vacuum leak, bad PCV valve.
*Defective Throttle Position Sensor
*Throttle Position Valve cable out of adjustment. Throttle linkage sticking or binding. Throttle Position Pivot (at transmission) sticking or binding.
You say that you lose power when this happens. If this is an erratic thing, I don't think you've got a catalytic converter problem. If, however, you are pressing on the accelerator pedal and it seems to gradually go slower and the transmission is not slipping, you could have a partially clogged catalytic converter that is beginning to overheat, among other things.
Jan 20, 2009 (10:31 pm)
Thanks, for the info i have had it to 3 different dealers and they said it has nothing wrong with it. But it feels like im pulling something but im not, i cant even spin my tires. If i have my cruise set it does it more but it also does it when i hit a bump in the road. I also have the same spark plug that keeps on fouling out it is the one on the drivers side in the back , I herd from about 10 people it was my cat but i will look into what you said thanks
#320 of 467 Re: Cold Start High Idle [moquelvog]
Feb 20, 2009 (3:26 am)
Check the throttle positioning sensor. If that is not that try a crankshaft sensor. I have the same problem with my 92 dakota.
#321 of 467 Re: 1997 Dodge Dakota Engine/Electrical Trouble [nenisi]
Feb 20, 2009 (3:33 am)
My 92 dakota is doing the same thing I had changed the temp. sensor first because it was cheaper than the crank sensor. But that did not work so i am buying the 50 dollar crank sensor and going to put it in.
#322 of 467 Engine leaking oil out of exaust!
Mar 23, 2009 (5:01 pm)
My 1992 dodge Dakota is a v6 3.9 liter and all of a sudden all the oil drained into the pistons and was burnt up. My question is where in the cylinder heads underneath the valve cover where are the oil drain holes in this motor? Can someone help me please?!!
#323 of 467 97 Dodge Dakota 3.9
Mar 24, 2009 (2:57 pm)
I keep posting, but do not see a the posting or response. I've replaced lots of parts. i.e. plugs, plug wires, cam position sensor twice, fuel pump, crank sensor, coolant temperature sensor, fuel pump, etc. Tried another computer, lots of dry gas, fixed leaky vacuum hoses, new distributor and pick up inside twice. I'm probably forgetting some items. Truck runs like a dream when it is warm outside and for 10 to 12 minutes when it is cold. After the 10 to 12 minutes when it is cold it bucks violently and misfires for miles upon miles. I'm going to try a PCV valve tomorrow and check those hoses, but realistically, I feel like I'm grasping at straws and spending alot of money on nothing that helps. A 99 van has the same problem and Chrysler wants to throw a new wiring harness in! Yeah likes that's going to solve the problem! I have 155,000 miles on the 5 speed and love it when it is warm outside, but it is useless during the winter. Any constructive help would be greatly appreciated. I'm going broke and still don't have a reliable vehicle! Thanks!
Mar 29, 2009 (6:33 am)
I brohght a used 05 dakota, v8 4.7 2X4 with 180000km, the truck run great so far 82L gas tank can least about 450km, but starting couple month ago, full tank of gas only least about 300km, I live in northern area, winter need warm up the car before toke off on the road, but it still should not be that much of different, any one have idea is some thing go wrong with the truck or just the way to go.
#326 of 467 Re: 97 Dodge Dakota 3.9 [factman1]
Mar 30, 2009 (1:48 am)
MAF sensor, Just changed one this weekend and it was doing the same thing. hope it helps..