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Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota Engine and Underhood Questions
378 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 9:20 PM
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Replying to: jedro (Nov 15, 2008 4:06 am) |
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I have a 1997 Dodge Dakota Sport, V6, 4X4. When the outside temp falls below 32 degrees I have a problem. Engine starts fine. After 10 or 15 minutes of driving I sometimes cannot go uphill over 15 miles an hour. Downhill is worse, I leave off the gas, the RPM's fluctuate by as much as 1000, it then backfires. I have replaced the cam sensor and the air temp. sensor. If the check engine light comes on, it signifies the cam sensor. HELP!! I'm at my witts end! Do you think it could be the crank sensor or possibly the temp. sensor?
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well okay, first of all, my first post. and i need some help here. my dad has a 94 dakota 318 4x4. pretty nice pickup when he bought it. well the bad part is he bought it for me to drive. and as i am 16 years old livin in north dakota, it went through more mud holes than anything pickup i have seen. it has been raced, and the engine has gone to hell and back. and i gotta say, that thing just doesnt want to be stuck. i think it got stuck 6 times in a little over a year, which is a lot better then my ford. anyways, he also has an 85 dodge ram charger, 318 4x4 that doesnt have insurance anymore, so it basically sits in the driveway. well we have swapped the engine in my ford twice, as i have blown in up twice (water in the cylinders both times). the second time we took it out we just replaced cylinders. and now he wants to take the cylinders and connecting rods, possibly more engine parts out of the ram charger engine and put them in the dakota. but as the ram charger is carburated and the dakota is fuel injected he doesnt know if they will swap. i mean he basically wants to use as much of the carburated engine as he can, as that thing just wont ever die. so if you could it would be nice if someone could tell me if the pistons, possibly the heads, oil pump, and other engine parts would swap into a dakota engine. thank you and sorry for being so long winded. its kind of my downfall to forums.
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I have a 99 dakota sport with a 318 4x4 and and when i get to 60-65 and stay there and my rpms are at the little line below 2000 and will jump up to 2000 rpms and sounds like it tries to shift in and out of ODrive and i lost a lot of power i herd it maybe my cat but i dont know i may have it cut off what do you think please help
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"what do you think please help" I think you should have paid more attention in your english / grammar classes. Sounds to me like your torque convertor is acting up. But I'm not an expert on slushboxes (or anything really), I only drive manual transmissions. But that is my initial impression. A cat problem would more than likely result in not being able to build speed / rpm, or slowing down. Basically a cat problem usually causes exhaust flow to be hindered, the engine won't breathe as well and will lose power. Normally it will not jump up in rpm due to a cat problem. I think that it has got to be something related to the transmission. Torque converter would be the first thing I would have checked. |
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Replying to: 95f150 (Jan 19, 2009 7:42 pm) The block uses a roller lifter camshaft and incorporates a different oiling method for the rockers. In addition, the push rod angled changed that means only a Magnum head would be compatible with a Magnum block, and conversely a non-Magnum block is only compatible with a non-Magnum cylinder head. The Magnum motor incorporates some lighter materials for the piston, and a high-swirl, highly efficient cylinder head. Unless you are on a tight budget, I would recommend rebuilding or refreshing the '94 motor. If compression is low and the '94 engine has relatively low miles and had reasonably good maintenance, the problem will probably be in the cylinder head (punky or burnt valves, and/or worn valve guides, hardened valve guide seals, etc.). Unless there's a lot of cylinder wall scoring, Mopar blocks and piston rings seldom wear enough to represent a significant loss of cylinder pressure (compression). I've seen 318 and 360 motors with 150,000 miles on them that after a head refreshing registered the full service spec. compression. Of course, it all depends on how the motor was treated. I'd also check the catalytic converter. After a lot of miles, and especially if the motor wasn't running great for a while, the converters start to clog and cause a serious performance problem. Good luck, Dusty |
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Replying to: rumz (Jan 20, 2009 7:12 am) *Engine out of tune (worn or misfiring spark plugs, bad plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, etc.), dragging brakes, dirty throttlebody, vacuum leak, bad PCV valve. *Defective Throttle Position Sensor *Throttle Position Valve cable out of adjustment. Throttle linkage sticking or binding. Throttle Position Pivot (at transmission) sticking or binding. You say that you lose power when this happens. If this is an erratic thing, I don't think you've got a catalytic converter problem. If, however, you are pressing on the accelerator pedal and it seems to gradually go slower and the transmission is not slipping, you could have a partially clogged catalytic converter that is beginning to overheat, among other things. Regards, Dusty |
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| Thanks, for the info i have had it to 3 different dealers and they said it has nothing wrong with it. But it feels like im pulling something but im not, i cant even spin my tires. If i have my cruise set it does it more but it also does it when i hit a bump in the road. I also have the same spark plug that keeps on fouling out it is the one on the drivers side in the back , I herd from about 10 people it was my cat but i will look into what you said thanks | |
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Replying to: moquelvog (Mar 31, 2008 3:51 pm) |
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