Last post on Jan 18, 2013 at 6:57 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Brakes, Truck
#32 of 71 Chevy Colorado brakes
Aug 26, 2008 (3:00 am)
I wonder what I did wrong. I had over 33000 miles on my CrewCab 4x4 when I sold it and over 10000 miles of towing it behind my motorhome. It also had its own braking system so I really had over 44000 miles on it. A number of times I could feel it engage more than what I pushed on my motorhome brakes so it was slightly draging down the motorhome. Motorhome is 38 feet long and weighs close to 21000 lbs. I must have gotten some bad brakes to last that long.
#34 of 71 gmc canyon noisy brakes
Nov 25, 2008 (7:49 am)
we have a 2008 gmc canyon crew cab with the offroad suspension, but not the 4x4 gearing the brakes are noisy and squel almost every time my wife brakes , the truck has only 18k and we are not hard on the brakes. the dealer did look at them and put on something called quiet stop or something like that but they still squel.Anyone else have this problem?
#35 of 71 Re: gmc canyon noisy brakes [batavia02]
Dec 03, 2008 (12:28 pm)
Consider yourself lucky. My squeal started at 6000kms and I have had it in twice.
my 08 crew is 4x4 and my calipers had the bushings beat out of them at 8000k's....because they wouldn't fix the rotors that pulsed since the day I drove it off the lot. They finally put it on a brake lathe....changed my pins, bushing and calipsers....put the stop squeal on again....all is well with everything else...except the squeel is back....now at 11000ks...
The rear brake grab is known and its actually on of the TSB's for the Canyon
#36 of 71 Brake Rotors on 2005 Canyon.
Dec 13, 2008 (5:19 pm)
Could any one please advise if the front brake rotors are pressed on to the bearings on the canyons.I am coming due for a brake job and I hear horror stories of intensive and costly brake jobs on the Canyons.I would attempt to change the rotors but to use a hydraulic press is another bowl of wax.Please Comment.Thanks
#37 of 71 Re: Brake Rotor Problem [gmblues]
Jan 31, 2009 (7:59 pm)
Long time coming but here's an answer anyway...
Rotors rust. They rust if you don't use your truck for a week. They are make of cheap ass steel and they rust. I used to make them in a drop-steel foundry.
If you are driving and the rotors have rust on the face, your brakes are not applying enough pressure to the rotors.
Under normal conditions, one or two uses of the brakes will completely clean the face of the rotor (unless you left it at the beach for a year).
Daily use rotors are cleaned by use and the build up of crap goes into the brake dust.
Consider checking your braking system if you have rust on your rotors during normal usage.
#38 of 71 Re: Brake Rotors on 2005 Canyon. [GrandCanyon1]
Feb 02, 2009 (3:37 pm)
This might be a little late for your situation, however I'll try to offer some help...I recently purchased a "Haynes Repair Manual" for Colorado/Canyons. There are several pictures of the brake system in the book.
The one picture shows a 2WD front end, and even though the text mentions rotor removal in the same breath as hub removal, the picture shows a couple of "Tinnerman nuts" holding the rotors in place. I would then assume that if you remove the nuts, the rotors should come off.
I have a 4WD Canyon, and although I'm not positive how the rotors are held on, there are what appear to be bolts located betwen each lug stud. I would be tempted to conclude that these bolts hold the rotors in place. Since my rotors are in good shape, however, I'm not tempted at this point to see if these are indeed rotor retaining bolts.
#39 of 71 Re: Chevy Colorado brakes [dmathews3]
Feb 02, 2009 (3:49 pm)
I currently have 26,000 miles on my '05 Canyon 4x4. This vehicle is primarily used as my "winter driver" so if anybody should have problems, I should. Road salt does "simply wonderful things" to a vehicle, and my Canyon see plenty of it!
I took the front pads out this past fall, and yes, the tips of the pad's backing plates had corroded, and were not sliding freely in the calipers. I simply took a file, and smoothed down the tabs, ensuring that they moved freely in the calipers. I also removed the "slider pins", and cleaned and re-greased them.
In the rear, every year I remove the drums, spray the backing plates and springs with Simple Green, to remove any accumulated road salt, rinse everything, and then blow out the water with a leaf blower. Re-install the drums, and I'm good for another year.
I don't "baby" this truck, but I don't beat on it either. As I said, I have 26,000 miles on this truck right now, and the shoes/pads look like they'll go another 30-40,000 miles without any problem.
#40 of 71 Colorado Parking Brake
Feb 09, 2009 (4:56 pm)
I have an 05 with 80K miles. My parking brake will not release unless I go under the truck and do it manually. Has anyone had this problem before? And, how might I go about fixing it? I have replace the brakes but no luck.
#41 of 71 Re: Colorado Parking Brake [1970olds]
Feb 14, 2009 (5:06 am)
Peel back the rubber boots on the end of the cables, and spray some lubricant in the ends of the e-brake cables. Then work the cables in and out to work in the lube. Also, spray the foot mechanism in the cab.
If that doesn't work, pull the drums back off and make sure the e-brake linkage is also able to move freely, without any binding.