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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Brake Questions

44 messages, Last post on Nov 01, 2009 at 5:50 PM
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Replying to: batavia02 (Nov 25, 2008 7:49 am) my 08 crew is 4x4 and my calipers had the bushings beat out of them at 8000k's....because they wouldn't fix the rotors that pulsed since the day I drove it off the lot. They finally put it on a brake lathe....changed my pins, bushing and calipsers....put the stop squeal on again....all is well with everything else...except the squeel is back....now at 11000ks... The rear brake grab is known and its actually on of the TSB's for the Canyon |
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Could any one please advise if the front brake rotors are pressed on to the bearings on the canyons.I am coming due for a brake job and I hear horror stories of intensive and costly brake jobs on the Canyons.I would attempt to change the rotors but to use a hydraulic press is another bowl of wax.Please Comment.Thanks
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Replying to: gmblues (May 02, 2008 11:20 am) Rotors rust. They rust if you don't use your truck for a week. They are make of cheap ass steel and they rust. I used to make them in a drop-steel foundry. If you are driving and the rotors have rust on the face, your brakes are not applying enough pressure to the rotors. Under normal conditions, one or two uses of the brakes will completely clean the face of the rotor (unless you left it at the beach for a year). Daily use rotors are cleaned by use and the build up of crap goes into the brake dust. Consider checking your braking system if you have rust on your rotors during normal usage. |
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Replying to: GrandCanyon1 (Dec 13, 2008 5:19 pm) The one picture shows a 2WD front end, and even though the text mentions rotor removal in the same breath as hub removal, the picture shows a couple of "Tinnerman nuts" holding the rotors in place. I would then assume that if you remove the nuts, the rotors should come off. I have a 4WD Canyon, and although I'm not positive how the rotors are held on, there are what appear to be bolts located betwen each lug stud. I would be tempted to conclude that these bolts hold the rotors in place. Since my rotors are in good shape, however, I'm not tempted at this point to see if these are indeed rotor retaining bolts. |
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Replying to: dmathews3 (Aug 26, 2008 3:00 am) I currently have 26,000 miles on my '05 Canyon 4x4. This vehicle is primarily used as my "winter driver" so if anybody should have problems, I should. Road salt does "simply wonderful things" to a vehicle, and my Canyon see plenty of it! I took the front pads out this past fall, and yes, the tips of the pad's backing plates had corroded, and were not sliding freely in the calipers. I simply took a file, and smoothed down the tabs, ensuring that they moved freely in the calipers. I also removed the "slider pins", and cleaned and re-greased them. In the rear, every year I remove the drums, spray the backing plates and springs with Simple Green, to remove any accumulated road salt, rinse everything, and then blow out the water with a leaf blower. Re-install the drums, and I'm good for another year. I don't "baby" this truck, but I don't beat on it either. As I said, I have 26,000 miles on this truck right now, and the shoes/pads look like they'll go another 30-40,000 miles without any problem. |
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I have an 05 with 80K miles. My parking brake will not release unless I go under the truck and do it manually. Has anyone had this problem before? And, how might I go about fixing it? I have replace the brakes but no luck. Thanks
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Replying to: 1970olds (Feb 09, 2009 4:56 pm) If that doesn't work, pull the drums back off and make sure the e-brake linkage is also able to move freely, without any binding. |
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Replying to: batavia02 (Nov 25, 2008 7:49 am)
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Replying to: tgil (Oct 11, 2009 3:14 pm) As for the braking power or lack thereof… I have not done the fix yet but they did change the whole braking system on the truck. The new equipment fits the old models. “they say” they put in a more powerful master cylinder and better calipers. We will see. It will be time for me to change out the fronts again in about 2 months so I am just upgrading to Baer calipers and rotors in the front. I am going to buy the new master cylinder from GM. They have done thing for the rear at all form what I can see though. Bad Bad Bad design!!! BUT… I will say I do have 140K on the truck and bought it in 8/06 with no engine issues. My check engine light did come on around 110K but that was caused by a old gas cap letting air in the tank… changed out gas cap and good to go… Also the air flow control switch (the one that indicated deforst, feet/face ect) failed as well. Time to replace that now. |
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Replying to: mike2250 (Oct 18, 2006 11:27 am) Thx Tony |
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