Last post on May 23, 2013 at 12:11 PM
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Jeep Grand Cherokee
#732 of 1069 Re: 2005 Grand Cherokee Stalls [bolling]
Jul 29, 2010 (8:37 pm)
My driver side door handle did the same thing. Unreal! My passenger door side is about to do the same thing too. I am the only passenger so luckily only one side is the problem. We took it out again tonight. It idles at stops signs below 1000 rpms lucky if it gets to 500 rpms. I can tell by sound when it is going to give out and can rev it to go. I don't have any check engine lights or any other indicators. It was due a new battery. The door handles to replace are high. Most people say to call salvage places to try to find a new door handle. I am so bummed. I had an Infinti Q 45 1995 with over 200,000 miles. So far with the a/c problem, exhaust manifold replacement, I spent less money on the Q car than the Jeep. Should have kept it. I had no luck with Chrysler on their crap doors. I wish you luck! I agree the hot weather should not have anything to do with it. Wondering if we should try to trade it in? Drove around to get gas out of car. Added fuel injector cleaner and will fill it up with better gas to see if that happens.
#733 of 1069 Re: 2005 Grand Cherokee Stalls [ahukill]
Jul 29, 2010 (11:19 pm)
ive had the same problem with my straight six.. it didnt have anything to do with the air though. it would seem fine maybe at first, but when i would get to a stop sign and accelerate it would die. also, if i just had it in park and pressed the accelerator the rpms would go higher then go extremely low and either putter or die. i had to replace the idle air sensor and the throttle sensor to get mine to stop. it didnt stop just at first.. it took it a couple times to re-adjust, but now it runs like a beaut.
#734 of 1069 Re: 2005 Grand Cherokee Stalls [ahukill]
Jul 30, 2010 (9:02 am)
If you find replacement door handles it doesn't help because the door panel itself is cracked and damaged. I still have the door handles but I can't reattach them because there's nothing to attach them to. Instead of Chrysler installing the door handle behind the door panel like most cars, they attached it to the panel itself which isn't strong enough to hold up to doors being opened and shut all the time.
My best friend is a mechanic of 30 years (in another state) and he called one of his contacts at Chrysler to inquire about the panel and handles. The contact told him it is a bad design and Chrysler is aware of the problem.
This is probably why they agreed to fix mine for $1000. They agreed to fix all four doors for that price which they referred to as the deductible. I am going to exercise that option, here in the next few weeks..
The potential for a tragedy to happen somewhere with jeeps stalling on highways and busy intersections/roads, as well as the door handles just snapping off is increaseling high. Cars were literally swerving to keep from hitting me last night, I couldn't move the car myself, plus my small child was in the back seat near the rear which would have been the point of impact.
The handles... what if a Jeep catches on fire. The first thing a person would do, with force due to the quick response is get out of the car. My door handles would not hold up to that, they would just snap off. And myself and my child are the only passengers ever in my car.
#735 of 1069 Re: 2005 Grand Cherokee Stalls [ahukill]
Jul 30, 2010 (4:16 pm)
METIMES GET A BAD CONNECTION. IT IS USUALLY THE ONE CLOSEST TO THE FENDER. UNPLUG, SPRAY WITH CLEANER AND REPLUG. YOU MAY EVEN HAVE TO WRAP A ZIP TIE AROUND THE UNIT TO KEEP THE PLUG IN TIGHT.
2) THIS MAY ALSO BE THE PROBLEM, IT IS GOING TO SOUND SCREWY BUT THERE ARE TORX SCREWS ON THE 1998 AND EARLIER ECU. BACK THEM OUT ABOUT A THIRD OF A TURN, THE SCREWS ARE TOO LONG AND ARE CAUSING SOME KIND OF SHORT IN THE CONNECTION OR MAYBE THE GROUND.
3) FOR 1999 AND LATER
I had same problem.... 87,000 2000 grand cherokee 4.7l
when i let off the gas it might stall. happens 1 to 4 times a day.
so far i have
replaced the crank shaft sensor - it stopped stalling for 3 days $130
cleaned the throttle boddy free
replaced the throttle position sensor $72
replaced the idle air control sensor $132
replaced the map manafold airflow sensor $125
no luck it is still stalling. not sure if i remember the prices
right on these parts....
by the way i have done all the work myself. it was about 30 minutes for most parts.
i just ordered a rebuilt ecu or pcu engine control unit. they program in the vin, mileage and part nbr so you gc will recognize it. $185
we will see when that comes.....
IT CAME AND THAT SEEMS TO HAVE FIXED THE PROBLEM..... .... SO FAR SO GOOD
#736 of 1069 Re: starts 3 seconds, no gauges, fuel pressure good [scottj1]
Jul 31, 2010 (6:55 am)
It is not the ignition switch for a couple of reasons. The first, it continues to run after I release the start position to the run position. (for about 2 seconds) Secondly, I kept the key in the start position after it started. Yes, I know about the starter, flex plate, torque converter, etc. I am at wits end and would never have done this unless I was trying to be absolutely sure about something. It is not the switch. I have no idea what it could be.Any help is appreciated.
#737 of 1069 Re: starts 3 seconds, no gauges, fuel pressure good [scottj1]
Jul 31, 2010 (9:48 am)
If it's a sensor you would get a check engine light and you could retrieve a code, i am pretty sure. I have had 2 problems that gave no code, one was the crank position sensor, located on the top of bell housing. It caused all gauges to max and then go to zero, however jeep would crank but not start, as when this goes bad it does not deliver signal to computer that tells computer to let spark go to plugs(ACTUALLY NO PLUGS, AN ELECTRONIC PART ON ENGINE). Since your vehicle runs, i doubt it is this. It's about a $75 dollar part but a biotch to install. The other issue my car had that had similar symptoms with gauges was the battery being old with a weak or dead cell. It had enough power to start but gauges fluttered and it ran rough and stalled, i did not think battery was bad because gauge was in good range, though on the low end of range, around 12.5 vdc. It eventually died and would not start, called Auto Club, they came tested battery, saw 12vdc, told me a good battery has 13.5-14vdc, put new battery in, jeep ran fine, no more problems. I then found many references on electrical system posts that the computer requires the 13.5 to properly function, and that lots of jeep cherokee probs are when battery is old and on way out, causes start and running problems, as sensors and or computer do not function properly with a weak battery. Your dash battery gauge should be near top of good range and if measured at battery must hold 13.5 while cranking. I had issues for about 6 weeks before final death of battery where it would no longer start, running got rougher last 2 weeks before end. So make sure battery is strong, i know if you worked on cars for 17 years you might assume battery in 12.8-13.2 range is good, but it is not on these vehicles, computer requires close to 14. If you want to start swapping parts, idle air sensor and the throttle sensor sound like they could be involved, but i would assume they would light check engine light. Do you know how to turn key on/off to display any codes on dash? It's in owners manual. Here is a link to what codes are and the method to retrieve codes with key. http://www.wjjeeps.com/faultcodes.htm Please post when you finally fix so rest of us will know.
#738 of 1069 Jeep Cherokee - 1997 127,000 Miles
Aug 02, 2010 (8:02 am)
I've been having issues with my jeep for about 4 years now. At first it was just Battery draining, but now things have escalated...
Stalling in motion,
Backfiring (I already blew one muffler due to this),
Sitting still it will also stall on me,
It will stall alot of the time if I shift it from Park to drive,
battery drains - though my hope is I might have fixed this part, I likely will not find out until winter,
Issues with car locks not working right (though I am fine using a key I just want it to stop stalling),
At one point I got a check cages light I've check oil and transmission fluid they are at the right level maybe it was responding to the stalling,
Recently after having powersteering issues I replace the pump,
I can pull the cables off and reset it, but that is only a temporary fix.
I literally sat in a parking lot this morning for 10 minutes trying to restart my car without it stalling otu on me... after it stalled on a road when I was going 50mph and on my way to work. Eventually I got it to start and I drove with two feet on gas and break most of the way to work.
I've one more year of college before I am able to buy something else... I'm almost through wihtout loans or debt. I really do not want to get a new car. This is killing me though, how am I supposed to be reliable without a source of transportation that is reliable.
I'm incredibly frustrated... If you can help let me know
I replaced all spark plugs, battery replacements about 10 of them in the past 3 years, O2 sensors, abs control module , catalitic converter, the computer, I had the transmission tested and there were no problems with it
My next thought is the crank shaft censor or a wire that isn't grounded properly. I have more issues stalling in rainy weather and high humidity. In winter it is a battery issues which might have been solved by the abs system being replace due to it overdrawing power. I want to fix the jeep but I'm becoming rather pesimistic as I fix more parts that it isn't able to be fixed.
The check engine light came on again so I'm taking it to the shop at lunch. However I'm interning this summer away from my family and home so I can't give up my car no matter how many problems it has.
#739 of 1069 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee won't turn over....
Aug 08, 2010 (12:09 pm)
I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0, 6 cyl that won't turn over. My wife stopped and filled it up at the gas station and when she went to leave, it wouldn't turn over. We jumped it at the gas station and it started fine and we were able to get it home. Took the battery in and the battery was fine. We changed out the starter and have checked all battery connections but still no luck. Just a clicking sound when engaging the key to start it. We have power inside. Any ideas??
#740 of 1069 Re: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee won't turn over.... [gr8redoak]
Aug 08, 2010 (1:02 pm)
Since it started when it is jumped i would rule out anything sensor related in your car, if it had been your starter, jumping would not have helped. I know you said you checked battery, but it really sounds like a bad battery. You said you took the battery some place. Out of car you took it? I don't trust a check like that on the counter of a parts store, it checks voltage but not cranking amps.Instead of wasting money on starter, battery is a better thing to change out. Jump your jeep, start it, drive to good parts store like autozone, they will check cranking amps as you try to start it. They also install the battery for free. If the vehicle started with a jump you can assume all circuits are good except for battery- if that battery is close to 3 years old, replace it, but i would want it tested still in the vehicle, that way they can first while it's running check voltage to make sure all cells are good, they can also see if alternator is charging battery, if it is but voltage is low(below 13.5 vdc) its the battery, test can also see if alternator is charging. That is the best way, instead of throwing parts at it. If battery is several years old, its highly suspect, enough volts to turn lights on dash on but bo cranking amps, but jump it and take it somewhere that tests in the vehicle, not with battery sitting on counter in store. Where did you take the battery to test?
#741 of 1069 Re: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee won't turn over.... [gr8redoak]
Aug 08, 2010 (2:28 pm)
I had the problem back in November. AAA came and jumped my car, said the battery was fine. It did it again and I also had power on the inside of the car. Took it to the Mobile gas station at the corner and they tested the battery again and said it was fine as well as all of the connections. As soon as the mechanic was getting ready to close the hood of my car the battery gave off some sort of fume and the mechanic said, "okay... this battery is no good". I forgot what he said was wrong with the battery but the fumes smelled like rotten egg. I purchased a new battery and they put it in right there. I never had the problem again. Again, the bested tested fine two times being hooked up to the machine but was no good. The old no good battery tested over 14.