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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems

589 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2009 at 4:03 PM
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Replying to: Alexwastaken (Feb 12, 2009 8:31 am)
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Replying to: gcl1 (Feb 12, 2009 10:14 am) |
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Replying to: Alexwastaken (Feb 12, 2009 8:31 am) |
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Replying to: goofyandpooh (Feb 28, 2009 9:50 pm) I was trying to avoid going to the garage at all costs. I had told a family friend and he layed awake trying to figure out what was wrong with my Jeep. At 1 am we got a phone call. I was told to remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes. I did this and my jeep is running like new. Evidently the computer had to be reset in order for the engine to run properly. I then proceeded in going on a 300 mile round trip and not once was there a hesitation, whereas the night before I was stalling at redlights. It may sound crazy, but it is true. I don't know if this will help you, but it worked for me. When I did talk to the garage, the man said he could put it on a testing machine that would be a tell all for what is exactly wrong. That was going to be my next reluctant step. Another possible idea is the catalytic converter. I had this happen on another car and it acted very similiar to your issue. Since you replaced so many components, there is not much left to try to do. I have found that the best mechanics are the young backyard mechanics who breathe life into rides that have seen better days. |
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Replying to: tuggajb (Feb 22, 2009 5:25 pm) Now I order the computer, when it arrives, Woops wrong item, this new one has 3 connectors mine only has one. I get a refund then call the dealer with the numbers off this module with one bolt and they tell me that is Not the PCM. The parts person does not have a picture, just comparing part numbers. So back to the jeep. That module that sits right in front of the coolant tank is Not the PCM. The PCM is up against the fire wall to the rear of the coolant tank. It is attached to a large metal plate and actually sits between that and the firewall, very hard to see. But look closely with a light and you can see It has three connectors plus a ground on the back,just exactly like the one I had ordered and took a refund. With a sheepish grin I return and get that PCM, the one with 3 connectors. The instructions tell you to ensure all relays are within limits or it may harm the module, so I also get a new Fuel Pump Relay. I think there are three relays with the same part number as the fuel pump relay. I replaced the relay and installed the new PCM. Test drove it over 100 miles, ran file. The next day another 50 ran fine. It's been cold lately so have not tested yet with AC going and long idles, but it appears to be running fine now. In total I replaced the TPC (36), ICM ($56), PCM ($125)Fuel Pump Relay ($16) and the battery connections plus cleaned lots of grounds. It appears to be fixed, I hope. Thru all of this I never had an engine light go on.
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I have a 95 JGC, v8, when I try starting it just turns over. Have to wait for fuel pump to kick on,was 1-2 min. suddenly 10-15 mins.Once pump reaches pressure it will start fine and runs perfect. used to restart fine once warm but acts up every time now.Got really bad over night
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brake pedal pulsed found bad left wheel bearing and put new rotors sti the same thinking abs or cv or front drive shaft please help!!! |
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Replying to: zs711 (Mar 02, 2009 8:52 am) When you can't start an injected engine when its cold, SOMETHING is not allowing the fuel mixture to either richen up (like when you use the choke on your lawnmower)or actually GET to the cylinders(like plugged injectors, or a blocked fuel filter). Sometimes, a wide open IAC will cause the engine to act this way. Also, if your mass air flow sensor/airspeed sensor is dirty or bad it will take time for the engine to fire up. Again, just my two cents. |
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Replying to: texgking (Mar 02, 2009 4:07 am)
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| I finally solved the problem with stalling on my 1997 Jeep Cherokee Laredo...My mechanic replaced the ignition switch and coil... | |
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