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SUVs Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems
590 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2009 at 4:03 PM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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I have a ‘98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, it started stalling out while being driven at least at 30MPH+ or as we come to a slow stop. Took it in to the shop, did a tune-up, examined fuel filter (no prob), replaced TPS (Throttle Position Sensor?), got the car back, drove about 4 miles and it stalled! Drove it back to shop, they kept for add’l 3 days, did not stall on them (of course). They put the old TPS back in since it stalled on a new one thinking the old one was fine. Replaced the Ignition Coil. Just got it back today, drove about 2.5 miles stalled out on us 3x. I revved the engine, in neutral at 3500-4000 RPMs & it still stalled out! It feels like as if the fuel mixture is incorrect when it does about to stall out. I put in neutral, step on the gas & I’m fighting w/it to not stall. In-laws had this similar matter w/their current Jeep about a year ago & replaced every single possible sensor there was & it lasted about a year, they are now having the same issue as us. since they replaced all the sensors, they had no clue what part was really the culprit. Anyone have any suggestions I can pass onto mechanic for my car? Thanks.
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Replying to: tidester (Feb 27, 2009 4:26 pm)
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Replying to: sarge836 (Mar 01, 2009 7:42 am) Way back in our archives, people describing similar symptoms thought there might be a problem with the IAC (Intake AIr Control) and valve. You can browse through that discussion here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef1b887 tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper |
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When I come to a stop with the car in gear my RPM's go from the normal 800ish down to around 200 or so and then back up. And a handful of times it has died. This only happens when in gear. (Its and automatic btw) And sometimes it stays at the noraml 800 RPMs with no problem. Other than that, the car drives fine. No problems when its in park, or when cruising down the highway. Its been having this problem for about a year now. Anyone have similar problems?
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Replying to: Alexwastaken (Feb 12, 2009 8:31 am)
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Replying to: gcl1 (Feb 12, 2009 10:14 am) |
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Replying to: Alexwastaken (Feb 12, 2009 8:31 am) |
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Replying to: goofyandpooh (Feb 28, 2009 9:50 pm) I was trying to avoid going to the garage at all costs. I had told a family friend and he layed awake trying to figure out what was wrong with my Jeep. At 1 am we got a phone call. I was told to remove the negative battery cable for 30 minutes. I did this and my jeep is running like new. Evidently the computer had to be reset in order for the engine to run properly. I then proceeded in going on a 300 mile round trip and not once was there a hesitation, whereas the night before I was stalling at redlights. It may sound crazy, but it is true. I don't know if this will help you, but it worked for me. When I did talk to the garage, the man said he could put it on a testing machine that would be a tell all for what is exactly wrong. That was going to be my next reluctant step. Another possible idea is the catalytic converter. I had this happen on another car and it acted very similiar to your issue. Since you replaced so many components, there is not much left to try to do. I have found that the best mechanics are the young backyard mechanics who breathe life into rides that have seen better days. |
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Replying to: tuggajb (Feb 22, 2009 5:25 pm) Now I order the computer, when it arrives, Woops wrong item, this new one has 3 connectors mine only has one. I get a refund then call the dealer with the numbers off this module with one bolt and they tell me that is Not the PCM. The parts person does not have a picture, just comparing part numbers. So back to the jeep. That module that sits right in front of the coolant tank is Not the PCM. The PCM is up against the fire wall to the rear of the coolant tank. It is attached to a large metal plate and actually sits between that and the firewall, very hard to see. But look closely with a light and you can see It has three connectors plus a ground on the back,just exactly like the one I had ordered and took a refund. With a sheepish grin I return and get that PCM, the one with 3 connectors. The instructions tell you to ensure all relays are within limits or it may harm the module, so I also get a new Fuel Pump Relay. I think there are three relays with the same part number as the fuel pump relay. I replaced the relay and installed the new PCM. Test drove it over 100 miles, ran file. The next day another 50 ran fine. It's been cold lately so have not tested yet with AC going and long idles, but it appears to be running fine now. In total I replaced the TPC (36), ICM ($56), PCM ($125)Fuel Pump Relay ($16) and the battery connections plus cleaned lots of grounds. It appears to be fixed, I hope. Thru all of this I never had an engine light go on.
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