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Jeep Grand Cherokee
#394 of 1069 Electrical Starting Issue JGC 2004 -ODD!!!
Nov 03, 2008 (10:24 am)
I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction on this odd situation. Yesterday when I went to start my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee I got nothing. No gauges energized up or anything. When I turned the key backwards to Aux power, the radio was very very dim and pulsated but would not turn on. I pulled the terminals from the battery and cleaned them just to rule this out. Well the car started right up after reconnecting the battery. I immediately turned the car off to try and restart again to make sure everything was fine but there it was again. All gauges dead and no response at all trying to start.
Here is where it gets weird. I was turning the key to start and let it come back to run position a few times then all of a sudden on like the 4th try, the dash board lit up and the vehicle started fine. Needless to say this leaves a very bad feeling when driving out far from home especially since the wife uses this vehicle too.
This morning, I go out to start it and again no power but this time, all the guages(exept the Tach and Speedo) were pulsing up and down. This is with no key in or anything. They were going by themselves. I went to the battery and was getting a variable reading of between 6-8 volts. (pulsing like the gauges). I unhooked the battery and reconnected and everything powers up again fine and the battery is now reading normal at 12.5 volts.
Before unhooking the battery this last time I was pulling fuses and relays to try and isolate a possible short and got the pulsing to stop on the gauges when fuse Skim/Hood Lmp or Overhead RRwipe was pulled. Not sure if related but it did make the gauges stop bouncing. No relays being pulled stopped it.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I don't want to get trapped out somewhere with this thing dead. This may be the obivous and just be a bad battery(bought 1.5 years ago but you never know.) going to have it tested later today.
Again the main thing that stands out is when I unhook the battery then reconnect, it seems to correct itself and power up fine (and even odder, it goes from reading variable 6-8 volts to 12.5 after the disconnect reconnect)
#395 of 1069 Re: HELP!!! 96 Country won't start [em82678]
Nov 04, 2008 (7:36 am)
My 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee is experiencing the same problem of stalling. Sometimes I can't start in the morning, stalls in the middle of the road, but after a few minutes of waiting it will start again. I have replaced the fuel pump (there is no fuel filter for 1997-99 outside), crank position sensor replaced spark plugs, clean the ignition system. I read in this forum about the battery,(sometimes it reads 6-8 volts but once started goes back to 12-13. There is no check engine codes. Any other suggestion?
#396 of 1069 Re: HELP!!! 96 Country won't start [bradpans]
Nov 04, 2008 (2:13 pm)
how old is the battery if older than year or two change that first as jeeps dont like voltage varences that well battery is only 75 85 bucks at wall mart then see if prob goes away
#397 of 1069 Re: HELP!!! 96 Country won't start [bradpans]
Nov 04, 2008 (2:46 pm)
Once again. 90% of the time it's the Throttle Position Sensor. $30 at parts store and 5 minutes to change. If it's not the TPS it's going to be the Idle Air control Sensor, about same price and little longer to change because of placement. I fix Jeeps everyday all day.
#398 of 1069 Re: starting problem [ngharteyk]
Nov 04, 2008 (4:55 pm)
I had a problem with my 1999 Grand Cherokee stalling. A new crankshaft position sensor solved the problem. When installed it started with no problem. It is located on top of the bell housing, awkward to get to but if you remove it there may be oil deposits on the end stopping the signal passing through.
#399 of 1069 Re: Hard start in cold weather [barnaby95]
Nov 13, 2008 (8:50 pm)
The '93 is a 4.0. I replaced the battery with no apparent change in the problem. During the starting sequence, in the morning or after sitting for several hours, the check engine light does not come on (trouble light test sequence) for a few minutes. When it does come on, then the fuel pump will start. I don't want to just start replacing parts without some idea of what is causing the problem. Any help anyone can give would be greatly appreciated.
#400 of 1069 Re: Hard start in cold weather [barnaby95]
Nov 13, 2008 (8:58 pm)
try a new ingnition switch sounds as if not making good contact when it gets cool out sets down on stearing coluem by your feet
#402 of 1069 97 grand cherokee no spark / no start
Nov 14, 2008 (12:37 pm)
im having major problems with my 97 cherokee. i dont have spark. so far i have tested and replaced the batt, the coil, the crank sensor, the cam sensor ( aka the sync signal generator inside the distributor ) and have tested power at the coil. i am getting power at the green / orange wire . when i flip the test light to + i am getting ground at the coil but not while cranking. i have tested the wire from the pcm to the coil and it isnt broken or damaged. the truck sat in an impound for 2 1/2 years before i bought it. it took close to an hour to get it jumped and running and even still i had to keep my foot on the gas at all times or it would stall. can the pcm lose its memory?? does it have to be reflashed?? is their anyway to do it myself?? thanks everyone for your help.
#403 of 1069 Re: HELP!!! 96 Country won't start [bradpans]
Nov 14, 2008 (1:50 pm)
I FOUND THIS ONLINE AND IT MAY HELP YOU
Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board. Chrysler PCM p/n P56028412, s/n TEH106636023.
Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didn’t matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didn’t have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and it’s all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. I’m a trusting soul, but let’s see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, “We don’t know what it could be, good luck with that”. Now my wife knows why I don’t go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, it’s showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I don’t recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didn’t even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldn’t stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldn’t start! That was the point when my wife asked, “How’s it going?” And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, “what the ----?” That’s when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, “Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on.” DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I installed new screws (1/4” long, factory screws are 1/2” long Torx head), and she’s been running great ever since.
Now, will this fix a bad crank sensor or idle air motor? No. But it is an easy trick to try before going to the dealer and having them throw expensive parts at your Jeep and seeing if any of them stick. Just back out the cover screws about 1/8”-1/4” (don’t worry, nothing will fall apart inside). If it fixes it, great! Spread the word. If not, use logical trouble-shooting steps. Learn the systems – what will and what won’t cause the problem. Good luck.
As a side note, if you want to see a service manager’s eyes pop out of his head, tell him that you want your money back because your not going to pay them to trouble-shoot a design defect. It’s a glorious sight.
AND IF THIS DOESNT WORK TRY THE CAM SENSOR ( AKA THE IGNITION PICK UP COIL INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE POWER TO THE COIL BY USING A TEST LIGHT. GROUND THE TEST LIGHT AND CHECK THE GREEN / ORANGE WIRE AT THE COIL FOR POWER THEN PUT THE TEST LIGHT ON + AND CHECK THE GRAY / WHITE WIRE FOR GROUND. HOPE IT HELPS