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SUVs Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems
590 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2009 at 4:03 PM
You are in the Jeep Cherokee and Jeep Grand Cherokee Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: xscout (Nov 09, 2006 12:33 pm) |
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Replying to: xscout (Nov 09, 2006 12:33 pm)
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Replying to: mullins87 (Sep 03, 2006 5:51 am)
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I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee 5.2L V8. It has a problem running. You can be driving down the road and let your foot off the game and the jeep will just shut right off. If you say pull into a parking spot and let your foot off the gas it will shut off. Sometimes you can't even go out there and turn it on and have it stay running unless you keep your foot on the gas. I have heard stuff about the Idle Air Control Valve or anything that has to deal with the vehicle ideling. Any suggestions? I brought it to the jeep place here (an actual Jeep/chrysler place) and they said "We cannot duplicate the problem". I don't understand that becuase when i pulled it in there it shut off while it was still in drive. Needless to say that was a waste of money. So anyone have any ideas on why it may just want to shut off. Thanks |
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Replying to: dotcom012 (Nov 15, 2006 11:01 pm) I finally decided to measure and inspect the electrical system using my electronics laboratory test gear (not automotive diagnostics equipment), because I design electronics for a living. I found that we had a "hard" i.e., sulphated battery, which meant that the 13.8-14.4 so-called DC voltage coming from the alternator was really a very, very bad/ripply voltage (since the battery was not able to act as a smoothing filter if you will.) I put in a brand new battery, bingo! no stall problem anymore. How can this be you may ask, well methinks that Chrysler has cheaped out on the amount of voltage regulation/ripple rejection circuitry in the ECU, and hence that could certainly lead to the above stall symptom. Today's automotive technicians should be more than 80% focused on electronics rather than the mechanical, as that is usually the root cause of problems, unlike the old days. And heaven forbid that the great big software company should soon succeed in implanting Windows into our vehicles!!! Hope this is of interest or helps*****
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| Well, i replaced the IAC valve today and so far not a single problem. My Jeep stays running and hasn't shut off so far. I will get a new battery anywaz to see if that helps anymore. If you happen to change the IAC remember to disconnect the battery before you do this. I guess it is like a computer, you have to restart it to find new hardware. I talked to some people who have just pluged it up after taking the old one out with the same problems. I will let you know on the battery thing though. | |
| I had a good mechanic put a 4.0 Jasper in my 1989 Cherokee. He said it wouldn't start and he thought the problem was the ECU. He installed an ECU and the Jeep ran fine for about 4000 miles. Then it would start one day but not the next. When it doesn't start, there is no spark. I replaced the ICM, ignition coil, distributor, CPS, and EGR valve. It runs great but I never know when it may not start up. | |
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Replying to: wolfblum (Nov 16, 2006 7:40 pm) Engine runs smooth, I don't get it?? Did a spark plug, wires, cap & rotor replacement well over a month ago and check engine light still comes on?? Infinity radio comes on but no sound and everytime I turn the brights on and off the Security light clicks and blinks once?? Anybody have similar problems, any help would greatly be appreciated as I don't have a lot of $$ right now!! |
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Replying to: dotcom012 (Nov 15, 2006 11:01 pm) |
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All, I have the SAME issue regarding the idle problem: vehicle will not idle, I have to pop it into Neutral to keep it from stalling out. It is fine once I drive it for a distance (not sure exactly how far it takes, never compared) without stopping. All the above postings really helped with diagnosing. One thing I had before this was when using lights at night, the interior lights will get really dim and barely visible, and I literally "hit" the headlights lever/dial to get them to come back bright again. Used to work, but that barely works anymore. Then started that idle issue, which went from a very few instances, to about every time I drive now. That with the flickering interior lighting, REALLY makes me lean towards the electrical problem and not so much the IAC, TPS, or PCV replacement. Any thoughts?? |
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