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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems

399 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 7:18 PM
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Replying to: weezy3 (Jun 11, 2009 8:35 am) |
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Replying to: leadfoot4 (Jul 31, 2009 4:07 am) Last time I called them I could not pin them down on this. I'll try calling them again and post their answer. Thanks
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Replying to: falcon19 (Jul 31, 2009 9:25 pm) I found "The Letter". I had received it in November 2008 and my wife had filed it away without telling me. It says that in "some" 2006 Colorados "engine valve seats may wear." A tipoff that this is happening is that the Service Engine Soon (SES) may come on and "additional wear may lead to engine idle roughness." Anyhow, the letter is a notification that the warranty for this problem is now 7 years or 100,000 miles from the date of purchase. Good news! Here is a phone number contained in the letter for any questions regarding this: 1-800-630-2438. Hope this is helpful, Joe
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I've been experiencing engine and various electronic issues with my 05 Colorado from DAY 1 such as: rough starting (shuddering) and running, no starting, 4WD and emergency flashers inadvertantly engaging, trailer lights (loom wiring) not functioning, headlamps out, ABS sensor fault, seal issues -- blah blah. The list goes on. 3 different parts were changed on three different occasions for the 4WD issue, and a throttle body assembly and injector feed wire were replaced for the starting issues. I currently have 81K on the truck and I'm now experiencing unpredictable, infrequent start-up problems (again) ever since I ran my fuel down to a LOW FUEL WARNING level. It's crazy. I can run for several days, then boom -- no start. It will crank with no engine turnover. In each instance, the engine will eventually turnover after a few tries and then turning the ignition switch on after having let it sit for several minutes. A mechanic had advised pounding on the fuel tank on one occasion which seemed to get immediate results, although I wasn't sure if it was because of sitting idle after repeated cranking. There have also been other instances when tank rapping hasn't worked. I've had two different GM mechanics and a veteran GM exec acknowledge fuel pump issues with their products although I'm not so sure after reading some message postings on the Edmunds forum. One guy said it could be an electrical contact issue with the pump, a hot spot that will react irregularly when the engine is hot, cold, idle for awhile, etc. etc. -- blah, blah. He said the newer fule pumps will slowly fail as opposed to outright failure common to past defections. I've had two guys check it for codes and there are none. I've put a fuel pressure gauge on the valve and get 53 -55 lbs of pressure when the non-start gremlin magically appears. It seems likely that the pump is functioning properly with that amount of pressure even during the no-start condition. I don't want to drop 3 bills for a pump and find out it's not the problem. It will be more if I take it to a dealer. PLEASE HELP!!! Can anybody offer"> a suggestion -- other than a flare?
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Replying to: stringpuller (Aug 07, 2009 2:52 pm)
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Replying to: mxr822 (Sep 01, 2009 1:25 pm) The truck failed to start at least 12X over a period of 7 weeks prior to taking it to the dealer. Since then, it hasn't failed to start in nearly two weeks, although it has rough started a couple times. The dealer advised me to observe whether the theft deterrent light flashes the next time the vehicle fails to start. I believe there might be an intermittent electrical issue associated with starting failure. Still seeking any helpful insight from knowledgeable gear-heads on the forum.
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Replying to: stringpuller (Sep 02, 2009 7:44 am) Wish I could be of more help. But describe the module to the dealer and see if they can run a check. It is and intermediate problem so they will have to keep the vehicle for a few days to spot it. Good luck |
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Hey folks I just bought a 2009 Colorado LT1 with the 2.9 engine as part of the cash for clunkers, It has a total of 1200 miles on it. I had to take it in to the dealer already because it was back firing and they said there was a service bulletin about the exhaust seal between the caytiltic converter and the muffler. They fixed that but I'm still hearing a noise like a low farting (for lack of a better discription) noise when I accelerate. Also I have allot of carbon buildup in the tailpipe when its seems like there should be next to none at this point. Finally its shifting poorly on the highway, it seems to gear back and forth between 2nd and third harshly when pulling into traffic. I cant help but this this is related somehow to the engine, possibly a torque issue. This is my first ever new car, I have service my own cars in the past and if I were to guess Id say it has a bad exhaust valve but I know these new engine are complicated. Generally its running ok. It seems to idle a little rough. Im going to take it back to the dealer later in the week. If there is anyone out there who has any information regarding these issues please let me know. Im hoping I didn't just trade in my Clunker Safari which ran till the wheels were falling off for another brand new clunker.
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Replying to: rcd2 (Sep 05, 2009 4:23 pm) |
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I have a 2004 Canyon with 46,000 miles with the L5 engine. I had a engine miss and check engine light was on. I have a friend that is a GM tec and he put the scanner on it and we found #1 cylinder was missing. I already put new plugs and the head was replaced at 26,000 miles. We also looked on the factory GM repair database site and noticed that there were MANY problems with heads and fuel injectors. I decided to take it to Jim Lupient Chev in Bloomington Minnesota where I bought the vehicle. They called me and stated that #1 and #3 fuel injectors were bad and that it would cost me about $1300.00. I asked them about the oil consumption and they stated that it could be a blocked passage in the valve cover and that would cost me about $450.00 to have them look at that. I told them no on that repair. Called me 2 days later and told me my vehicle was done but now #4 was bad and that it would of cost me additional $940.00 if they had replaced them when the did the original repair. Got in a argument with them and left. Got a block away and the check engine light came back on! Long story short, the dealer and regional GM service told me to bad. I am writting many letters!! GM charged me $218.00 per injector. I decided to fix it myself. I found NEW injectors on Amazon for $85.00 each. Was not a easy job but it took me about 5 hours to do the complete job. It runs good now but I might just be driving it to a Ford dealer and buying a quality vehicle from a company that does't have all our money and even more of mine. GM either makes junk injectors for this vehicle so at 46,000 mile you need to spend $2300.00 to GM to replace them all or the mechanic needs to learn his job. I beleive its the first. I will never buy another GM and will never do business with Lupient Chev of Bloomington Minnesota. Good luck all!! GO FORD!!!!!!!!
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