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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Engine Problems

399 messages,  Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 7:18 PM

You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Engine, Truck


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#344 of 399
Re: A/C Has a Bad Smell [texas914] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Apr 11, 2009 (6:58 am)
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Replying to: texas914 (Apr 11, 2009 4:49 am)

it's mold in the AC vents. You can find various sprays online or in stores that deal with this but in extreme cases you have to take the vents out and wash them, and sometimes dig into the heater core area as well.
 
One good habit is to run the heater through the vents now and then to dry them out.
 
I've heard that changing the cabin filter (if your vehicle has one) might help but I can't verify that one way or the other. Unless it proves to be moldy itself, I rather doubt it would help.
#345 of 399
Re: A/C Has a Bad Smell [Mr_Shiftright] by dmathews3
Apr 11, 2009 (12:01 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 11, 2009 6:58 am)

another prevension is to run AC on normal mode the last 10 min. or so if you are using the recirculate feature a lot.
#346 of 399
Re: Re/ cylinder head replacement [leadfoot4] by bearsrnum1
Apr 17, 2009 (2:43 pm)
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Replying to: leadfoot4 (Apr 05, 2007 4:10 am)

My 2006 colorado has 145,000 miles on it and was running great until just yesterday I was driving it and it shut off on me and on the dash display it read reduced power and the key wasnt able to start it, but my remote starter would.
#347 of 399
Re: Re/ cylinder head replacement [bearsrnum1] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Apr 17, 2009 (2:55 pm)
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Replying to: bearsrnum1 (Apr 17, 2009 2:43 pm)

If you have a voltage drop during engine cranking, this may cause this very thing to happen.
 
You should read the code set by the ECM. If it has anything to do with the throttle this is probably what happened.
 
You should load test your battery or if it is the original, just replace it, reset the codes and see what happens. Don't replace any parts yet.
#348 of 399
Re: 04 Chevy Colorado- engine will not start twice STRANGE [chevydetective] by derekdj
Apr 21, 2009 (9:52 am)
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Replying to: chevydetective (Nov 13, 2006 11:54 am)

i've had this same problem. with my 04 colorado i would use my key remote to unlock the doors but it wouldn't disengage my fuel lock on the engine so it would turn over just not fire up i've had to get my key remote reprogramed twice so far because of this problem and i have had to pay for them to get reprogramed. if i get the problem one more time which i feel will happen again because the last 2 times have been within the year so far im gonna try the lemon law thing
#349 of 399
my 2006 colorado fixer by bearsrnum1
Apr 26, 2009 (4:47 pm)
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The problem with my truck was that the crank sensor was bad. After it got replaced everything good.
#350 of 399
Engine electrical component failures by russ95
Jun 08, 2009 (8:00 am)
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Hi,
 I have an '04 Canyon 2wd 5cyl 5mt with 112,000 miles. I have come to realize that most of the electrical issues with these trucks such as coils, blower resistors & blowers, switches, sensors, door electrical problems, lighting problems, idle speed, check engine, and some no start issues can all be caused by the high amperage flows that are created by low system voltages.
 There seems to be (my opinion) two main causes. First is the marginal capacity Delco battery. If you are willing to eliminate the battery enclosure a much larger 850cca group 65 battery (Costco $80.) will fit in the stock retainer system. If you don't idle for long periods with the blower on high or other unusual high electrical demand (at idle) a battery upgrade may be all that is required. If that isn't enough you could consider changing from the stock 100amp alternator to the upgraded 125amp alternator used on the 08-09 4&5cyl trucks which seems to have resolved all these problems. Remember that no alternator will provide much output at idle speed.
Good Luck,
Russ
#351 of 399
head problem way out of warranty by rtroy66
Jun 10, 2009 (10:45 am)
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I was in arkansas visiting family when my engine light came on this last saturday, June 06 and so I took it in on Monday the 8th and they told me that the problem was the engine was loosing compressing due to faulty seat. Well I travel a lot and at 150,000 miles they told me it was going to cost 2200 dollars to fix it. Couldn't I just put a new engine in the truck for a little bit more. I don't know, but I think this should have been covered in the recall regardless of mileage.
#352 of 399
Re: head problem way out of warranty [rtroy66] by dmathews3
Jun 10, 2009 (11:44 am)
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Replying to: rtroy66 (Jun 10, 2009 10:45 am)

Come on, there is no company in the world that is going to cover something forever. 150K on the truck, you got more than your money out of it, buck up and either pay the man or find a junkyard engine and replace it or sell it and move on. Oh, if you find a car company that really, really warrentees a gas engine for that long, let me know and I'll put that company at the top of my list when it comes time for a new vehicle.
#353 of 399
Re: head problem way out of warranty [rtroy66] by russ95
Jun 10, 2009 (12:16 pm)
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Replying to: rtroy66 (Jun 10, 2009 10:45 am)

Hi,
 I believe you would be best off buying and installing a complete used '08-09 engine from a wrecked truck. They have bigger displacement, more horsepower & torque, better economy, and larger alternators. You might have a couple of small challenges on the exhaust side but it would probably be worth it overall. I am considering just this for my California emission '04 5cyl 5mt 2wd.
 Also keep in mind that any qualified automotive machine shop can repair these heads. Loose valve seats have been around since the first aluminum race heads came out and an experienced machinist can easily test and repair them better than new.
Russ

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