Last post on Jun 10, 2010 at 6:17 AM
You are in the Honda CR-V
What is this discussion about?
Honda CR-V, Auto Repair, Brakes, Oil, SUV
#46 of 50 Re: oil advice [steve_]
Nov 15, 2007 (11:34 am)
I bet you are finding those rebates at FatWallet.com.
Yeap, and slickdeals.net as well
I tried rebuilding a carb on a 33 year old Craftsman snowthrower (Tecumseh engine) that was running somewhat. After the rebuild it does not run at all.
I ended up buying an Ariens snowthrower with a Tecumseh engine. Hopefully Ariens lasts 30 years before it needs rebuilding.
I have toyed with the idea of buying a replacement Honda engine for the Craftsman, but I have not come across a honda engine (GX160 mainly) that has a PTO shaft. Harbor Freight has Subaru Robins engines for $129 add in a 15% off one item coupon and you are golden. But, they don't have them with 1:2 PTO either.
#47 of 50 What's the difference between a Honda OEM oxygen sensor and any after-marke
Jun 08, 2010 (11:43 am)
My 1999 CR-V is throwing consistently P0131 CEL (pre-cat sensor voltage low). The O2 sensor is the nippondenso one which I had to splice in the old connector (4 wires).
The engine runs fine after initial 2 min of early post start stumbling or flat spots. These are symptoms of lean stumble while cold. The engine has 192000 miles and has a new catalytic converteat 168000 miles along with new pre and post O2 sensors (both Nippondenso).
I suspect the ethanol 10% fuel is not compatible with the older 1990's MTBE fuel amounts being metered in by the old ECU's mapping.
Any suggestions as to why I am getting this code which when cleared always comes back withing a mile of driving.
Jun 08, 2010 (1:46 pm)
E10 won't be the issue, not at 10%. E10 was very common in the midwest in 1999.
The issue wiht Ethanol at higher ratio is some fo the seals, and the size of the injectors and the maximum range of hte fuel maps.
Your issue may be unrealted to the O2 sensors. I might take a look at other sensors that affect the fuel air ratio such as the MAP (manifold aboslute pressure), MAF (mass airflow sensor) or the IAT intake air temperature) sensor. Even the coolant temperature sensor could cause a fuel air ratio issue.
There is also a device on some cars that control the idle airflow that sets the idle speed. These get dirty and can cause problems as well.
I don't think 02 sensors are even used during cold air operation.
#49 of 50 Re: oil advice [blueiedgod]
by steve_ HOST
Jun 08, 2010 (6:27 pm)
I have all kinds of trouble with Tecumseh mower engines. The stupid needle valve gets clogged up all the time no matter how careful I am with ther fuel, and the bowl gasket doesn't hold up as you remove it to clean the needle. I can about remove it blindfolded since my chipper/shredder always had the same issue.
I have to use starter fluid to get the mower cranked.
Good thing it belongs to my buddy.
Get a Honda.
#50 of 50 Re: oil advice [steve_]
Jun 10, 2010 (6:17 am)
You're scaring me. I bought a lawnboy mower 4 years ago with a Tecumseh engine. It was right before the switch to Honda power units. I at least got a good price. It's worked just fine, no clogging or other issues. But I am careful to use non ethanol fuel, change the oil once a season only using SAE30 as recommended and most improtantly, I use stabilizer all the time, since a 5 gallon can of fuel lasts me a whole mowing season or more. I only put maybe 100-120 hours on the mower each season... which fits well with maintenance schedules.
Tecumseh went out of business recently. So I've heard its' a good idea if you have a newer pwoer unit, to get all the spare parts you ever plan to need now. thee ris some aftermarket support of most maintenance items. Just in case, I picked up a couple air filters and drive belts. If I have a major failure, I'll just replace the mower. If I can get 5 or 6 more seasons out of it, I won't be totally disapointed. Then I can get a proper Honda mower that will last a good 20 years or more.