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Pontiac Grand Prix Rattles, Clunks and other odd Noises

108 messages, Last post on Jul 26, 2009 at 2:20 PM
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Replying to: 07supercharged (Jun 06, 2007 7:54 am)
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Replying to: ajohn79 (Sep 05, 2007 3:00 am) |
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Replying to: kevin41 (Jul 23, 2007 9:52 am)
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Replying to: chinagbud (Oct 17, 2007 6:20 pm)
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Replying to: 07supercharged (Jun 06, 2007 11:29 am) |
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Replying to: msmish (Jul 21, 2007 2:19 pm) |
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Replying to: 07supercharged (Jun 06, 2007 11:29 am)
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Just thought you all might find this useful. Bulletin No.: 01-02-32-001J Date: June 08, 2007 TECHNICAL Subject: Clunk Felt/Noise Heard From Steering Column, Steering Gear and/or Front Of Vehicle During Turning Maneuver and/or Steering Wheel Rotation (Lubricate or Replace Intermediate Shaft As Appropriate) Models: 2001-2004 Buick Regal 2005-2007 Buick Allure (Canada Only), LaCrosse 1997-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier 2000-2007 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo 1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue 1997-2005 Pontiac Sunfire 2004-2007 Pontiac Grand Prix Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include I-shaft part number (P/N 25829293) for the 2000-2005 Monte Carlo. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-02-32-0011 (Section 02 - Steering). Condition Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from the front of the vehicle while driving during a turning maneuver. This condition may also be felt through the steering wheel when the vehicle is stationary and the wheel is rotated from steering stop to steering stop. Some vehicles may only exhibit the noise once for every 360°of wheel rotation. On all other vehicles, this clunk noise will be noticed during low speed acceleration or deceleration, typically in light turns of the steering wheel. Cause This condition may be caused by inadequate lubrication of the steering intermediate shaft which results in a slip stick condition possibly resulting in the clunk noise. Diagnostic Tip This condition is commonly misdiagnosed as originating in the steering gear and has resulted in the replacement of numerous steering gears without correcting the concern. Engineering Investigation shows that numerous steering gears have been misdiagnosed and replaced. The investigations shows that if the technician incorrectly diagnoses the steering gear as the cause of the noise and/or clunk during replacement of the steering gear, the technician may cycle the I-shaft, distributing the original grease in the I-shaft. This distribution of the original I-shaft grease may temporarily eliminate the I-shaft clunk so that the technician believes the noise and/or clunk is corrected with the steering gear replacement and returns the vehicle to the customer. After the customer drives the vehicles for several miles and dissipates the original grease, the noise may return. Attempt to duplicate the customer's concern and isolate the I-shaft by following the procedure below: Locate a large area (parking lot) where the vehicle can be turned in a tight circle. Turn the steering wheel to the right and/or left all the way to the steering lock, then off the steering lock a 1/4 turn. Drive the vehicle approximately 5 km/h (3 mph) in a circle, preferably over rough pavement or seams on the road surface. If a clunk is felt in the steering wheel, the MOST likely cause is the I-shaft - not the steering gear. Continue with the correction. Correction Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft. Replace the existing steering intermediate shaft using the service procedure found in Service Information. The remaining vehicles listed below will still need to have the current I-shafts re-lubricated. New I-shafts will be released later in 2007 for some of the remaining vehicles. Remove the intermediate steering shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the shaft with a Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098237. Follow the service procedure listed below. Remove the steering intermediate shaft from the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual. Fully extend the intermediate shaft by pulling the two shafts apart. Apply the grease supplied in the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication Kit in the aluminum end of the yoke opening. Direct the syringe tip as deep as possible into the yoke and dispense the full content of the syringe. Install the rubber stop plug from the Steering Column Shaft Lubrication kit into the yoke opening. Secure the rubber plug by swinging the upper yoke 90°. One ear of the yoke should press the rubber plug in. Make sure the intermediate shaft is being pressed over the ears of the solid shaft. Use a hard surface to ease the collapse of the intermediate shaft. It is best to use a pumping action when collapsing the shaft. Collapse the shaft as far as possible. Remove the rubber stopper plug from the yoke end of the shaft. Slowly extend the intermediate shaft apart. Inspect the intermediate shaft for a minimum of 5 mm (0.2 in) (a) of grease on the shaft splines. Repeat Steps 4-9 if less than 5 mm (0.2 in) of grease is on the shaft splines. Before installing the intermediate shaft in the vehicle, make sure to stroke and extend the intermediate shaft at least 15 TIMES to completely lubricate the internal surface of the slip joint. Reinstall the intermediate shaft into the vehicle. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in the appropriate Service Manual.
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Replying to: johnny_rotten (Nov 13, 2007 2:50 pm) |
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I have all of these same problems. 2006 Grand Prix with 50,000 miles.It was an amazing to drive car when I first got it. It was a GM Certified car i bought with 11,000 miles on it, previously was a rental car. Now I am gettign all these problems. I have the clunking that no mechanic can figure out, but I will have the dealer try the above solution. I also have that battery volt problem, Ive tried this. I got a battery brush, cleaner and protectant and cleaned up the battery and the terminals really good. Now this seems to keep my volts up. Maybe a dealer battery is just dying already, I never really heard anything about GM delco batteries before, but you never know. If anybody has battery problems with a different kind of battery, sears die hard, walmart, autozone, etc, let me know as it might be another flaw with the car. Also, my car is very sluggish, and this helped. I did this at my last oil change. I put a motor flush in it, ran it for 5 mins and drained the oil. I also put a slick 50 syntec in it becuase it has teflon in it and it is good to put one in at 50,000 miles because they warranty your engine, esp if your like me and your warranty ran out and I only ever put synthetic blend oil in my car because I have used the cheap oil for all my old cars and the dealer told me to put this in because it improves gas milage. I did not believe them, so it was saying I was avg 24.4 miles a galon when i bought it, well i did my first oil change and put cheap oil in it, and my avg mile dropped to 21.6, so now i stick with syntetic blend. I also cleaned my fuel injectors and throttle body at 50,000 miles and you should have seen how dirty thaat was, not it drives like brand new. But the problem I have is like my gas pedal sticks and when you let off the gas and go to push it slightly it don go and then it goes and gives alot of gas. What should I do for this? I can stand going slow it sticks and then takes off, sometimes it shifts really odd too, I didnt read anything about transmission problems, but if anybody has had transmissions problems let me know too. I really think I am going to purchase an extended warranty because it seems like this car has alot of problems, so if you go to carchex.com they are actually not priced very bad, for about $100 dollars down, and $100 a month for 11 months there after you can actually get like a 5 year 100,000 mile warranty and that isnt bad priced, i think that is what i am going to do since i cant afford to trade it in with a loan on it andchance losing more money and ending up with a bigger car payment and high car insurance. What do you all think
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