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Mazda5 Engine Issues

21 messages, Last post on Mar 03, 2009 at 3:37 PM
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Replying to: partsguy1 (Sep 05, 2006 8:26 am) Google is your friend So it can tell why you died, but not how badly you mistreated the engine. Also your manual should have some information according to the article, but I haven't checked ours yet. David |
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I have a 2007 Mazda 5 Sport 5 speed manual (that, in general, I am very happy with) and have experienced the engine stumble mentioned elsewhere in this forum. It is on my to-do list to go get the issue addressed. I have also experienced cold acceleration issues that may be unrelated to the engine stumble TSB. It feels to me like I am driving a carbureted car instead of a fuel-injected car for about the first five minutes after starting the car when the engine is not hot. Acceleration is rough and slow at low RPMs and then abruptly kicks in smoother and more powerful (feels like a turbo kicking in after winding up) at around ~3000 RPM. This is a problem in both winter and summer driving. Once the engine is warmed up, the acceleration problem goes away. Has anyone else experienced these cold acceleration issues? Is there a known fix? Does having the engine stumble TSB fix (reprogramming the PCM) done on the car also fix this issue?
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| Might the lighter weight 5W/20 also be for better fuel economy, with the tight tolerances in the todays engine could it also be that is why they recommend lighter weight oil and still have proper lubrication? Anybody know? | |
| Might the lighter weight 5W/20 also be for better fuel economy, with the tight tolerances in the todays engine could it also be that is why they recommend lighter weight oil and still have proper lubrication? Anybody know for sure? | |
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Replying to: dr_who (May 22, 2008 4:39 pm) |
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All newer cars have it, but it's much simpler then thought to be. It does record in a loop of... about 6 minutes. It keeps the highest RPM, fastest speed, average fuel consumption etc. It basically provides a statistical history of the car, not a play by play life. The break-in goal is to allow the formation of oil film on all the parts rubbing together. Since on new engines, the oil film is not permanent on all parts (and their entire surfaces) it is recommended that strain would not be put on - so the parts lacking an oil film would not rub very hard and exhibit premature wear. BUT... at different RPM, some parts come in contact with other at different points of their surfaces. Ex: valve ends will put pressure on a different part of a cam at different speeds; pistons will travel a few microns more at higher RPM. That is why running the engine through all its regimes is very important. Don't be afraid to spin your engine up to the red line (it's designed to go there), just do not put load on it. There are cases when damage has been observed on the top ring on the piston, because during the break-in period the engine was not rev’d up and used in the same manner as it was after that. I.E. if will rev the engine to 5k only after the break in, your top ring will suddenly encounter a part of the cylinder that does not have the "mirror" formed (more or less like running on sand paper). "If gonna race it, race it now, just not too hard" an old mechanic said once. |
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