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Ford Focus SVT, Ford Focus, Lights, Electrical, Coupe, Hatchback, Sedan, Wagon
#331 of 506 2001 focus problem
Apr 18, 2010 (9:25 am)
I have a 2001 ford focus that i just replaced the engine for less than three months ago. on my way to work, i lost all power-no hazards, no radio, no wipers, nothing. its done this before. sometimes itll start up again in a few minutes. no luck this time. two weeks ago i took it in and my mechanic cleaned and tightened grounding connections.this time when i turned the key all i got was tick tick ticking sound that sounded like it was coming from somewhere under the left side of the dashboard. i had it towed back home. when the tow guy drops the car, the blinkers are on. lo and behold, the car starts. the guy said sounds like other groundings could be loose. so frustrated. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Apr 18, 2010 (5:24 pm)
Check battery voltage when this happens with a digital volt meter. If battery shows over 12 volts while you get this clicking noise . Have your battery load tested with a carbon pile load tester. It should hold 9.6 volts for 15 seconds with a load of twice your cold cranking amps applied with load tester.
If battery and all cables are clean & tight, I would starting looking at the IGN switch, located on the lower half of your steering column.
Make SURE you have a GOOD body ground. If in doubt, run a new 10GA wire from battery ground post to a clean metal (SCRAPE PAINT) on body sheet metal on firewall.
Let me know what you find.
#333 of 506 Alternators keeps "burning up".
Apr 20, 2010 (1:26 am)
My daughter's 2004 ZTS keeps having its' alternator "burn up". Not with flames, but the interior of the alternator "melts down" and smells really, really bad. While she is driving the car, the batt light comes on, then the ABS light, then anything electrical goes haywire ( radio/wipers ), and then the engine stalls ( dies ) and cannot be restarted. The battery is completely drained. Jump-starting the car works, but when the jumper cables are disconnected, the engine dies immediately.
To prevent a breakdown, I had previously tested the original battery on the 45K mi/31//2yr-old car and found it to be "weak', so I replaced it. Then 3mos later the alternator "burned up" while driving. The car started normally that morn, but then 2 blocks down the street, the engine died and could not be restarted. The above symptoms were evident. Now, we have had maybe as many as 4 alternators put on it in 2 different trips to the repair shop. 3 times that I know of, the alternator has "burned up". These are supposedly remanufactured genuine "Ford" alternators.
There are just 2 wiring connections with no chance of error when reconnecting. The first replacement alternator lasted some 20K mi/1yr. But during that replacement, the shop needed 2 additional alternators to get the car "out the door". 1 was deemed to be "bad", the other was "incorrect", the 3rd one worked for a year. Then the other day the same symptoms - batt light on, ABS light on, slow wipers, then dead batt/no restart. We towed it in and when I went to start it to leave after the batt was charged/checked, and the alternator was replaced - a strange whirring noise followed by noxious smoke arising from the alternator area. The tech pulled the car back in and told me the alternator was again 'burned up". We bought the car new, and it has never been wrecked. The wiring at the alternator looks good, and checks good with an ohmeter, and cannot really be "crossed". There are no odd owner-installed add-ons to tax the electrical system. I can find no other posts with this type of problem. Other than this electrical problem the car has been without faults since July '04/64K mi. Can anyone out there offer me any insight as to what may be the source of this frustrating problem? Please?
Apr 20, 2010 (3:29 pm)
I would say you may have have a ground problem, just a guess.
1.st. I would find an Advance Auto Parts. 2. I would buy a NEW alt which has a
LIFETIME warranty. 3. buy a cheap digital volt/amp meter. 4. have your battery charged and load tested with carbon pile tester. apply 2 times the cold cranking amps to the battery while reading battery voltage. It must hold 9.6 volts for 15 sec.if not replace the battery. 5. Moniter battery voltage while running, at NO time should it exceed 14.2 volts.
If your voltage goes over this for any time it can cook the battery and cause all kinds of havic. Hopefully it did not cook your inst. cluster.
Get this dine and let me know what you found out
#335 of 506 Re: ALT [oldfordmech]
Apr 21, 2010 (6:38 am)
That is what I was thinking ( ground problem ). Many, many years ago, I left the braided ground strap off of a transmission when I replaced the starter ring gear. When I started the engine, the alternator smoked itself to death in a hurry. I NEVER made that mistake again!
The alternator on my daughter's car mounts directly to the engine block. There is a ground strap from the engine to the R-H frame rail. I checked it for tightness, corrosion, and a good, clean ground. The battery grounds at the other-side-of-the-car ( L-H ) frame rail. It checks out good as well. I still think there is a faulty ground somewhere. Thank you for your help. I am an old M-B mech.
Apr 21, 2010 (3:15 pm)
What you went over sounds good, also check the end of ground cable from batt to eng block, make sure it's clean & tight.
After you find out voltage when running, let me know.
ALSO - You can load test the ground circuit and pos. cable with a carbon pile load tester. You should NOT have over 1/2 volt drop in ground side or 1/2 volt drop in pos. battery cable.
Stay in touch
#337 of 506 Definite fix!!!
May 14, 2010 (12:22 am)
My 01 Ford Focus with 94000miles has until now been totally problem free but recently it has started to loose power to the lights, heater, wipers etc....
I've been scrawling through loads of the answers & suggestions to the problem on here but have yet to find one that was a CONFIRMED repairer of the problem!!!
The battery is perfect, fuses are good, earths are fine & even after the car recently got laid up for over 3wks in an airport carpark, it still started first time so am presuming alternator has to be charging the battery sufficiently!!!
Any help or advice that HAS succeeded to date would be much appreciated????
May 14, 2010 (5:42 pm)
Sounds like your problem is in your IGN SWITCH or loose,or burned wiring at ign sw plug-in. This switch is located on the top side of your steering column, under dash. Remove lower panel, below steering column. you will find 4 nuts holding S.C.
to dash, lower down column, the ign sw wiring is held to the sw w/an 8mm bolt. the sw is mounted to yhe column w/2 10 or 11mm nuts. Lift switch up and pay attention to where the rod from the key goes into sw. Your problem is most likely the switch.
#339 of 506 Re: ACC PROBLEM [oldfordmech]
May 18, 2010 (3:48 pm)
Hiya Cliff.....as am new to this site, I just wanted to double check with you that your post #338 was in fact meant for me & my focus post #337, better safe than sorry before I start to examine the ignition switch.
Much appreciated, Hugh.
May 18, 2010 (5:22 pm)
I received your e-mail, and YES the IGN repair was ment for you on your post #337