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Hatchbacks Ford Focus Ford Focus Electrical and Lighting Problems
286 messages, Last post on Nov 13, 2009 at 4:52 PM
You are in the Ford Focus Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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"Above 14 volts" means just that. With the voltage out of the regulator varying, I'd wager you're still going to need to replace it. The whole idea of the regulator is to provide that rock steady voltage.
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Replying to: pf_flyer (Jul 31, 2009 3:27 am) |
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14.2 IS THE IDEAL VOLTAGE TO HAVE AT THE BATTERY WITH THE ENG RUNNING AT APPROX 1,000 RPM WITH A GOOD LOAD, ( a/c,wipers and headlights on) Are u still having problem w/red alt light still on after doing above test ?
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Replying to: oldfordmech (Jul 31, 2009 11:13 am) As a quick history of the problem again: first the red battery light (not the orange engine light) came on intermittently. When it was on, I was normally able to shut it off by pressing the clutch pedal completely (it's a manual) or by changing gears, which involves pressing the clutch, so I figured it's probably not rpm related. The the light came on more frequently so I looked in the manual what could be wrong and started reading the forums and measured the voltage (up to 16.3V varying constantly with engine on) and so on. Then eventually the instrument lighting started to flicker and the headlights and blower motor rpm started to vary, and also the rpm and speedometer gauges started to have a life of their own (zeroing, going to max, then back to normal, also all warning lights came on - probably the instrument cluster self-test or calibration, and there was a bell (like when you forget the headlights and pull the key)). Then I looked in my book and the forums also said replace voltage regulator/alternator when voltage is over 14. While starting to work around the alt, I noticed the corroded wire, which then came off completely (the red wire on the 3 pin connector on the back of the alt [blue and white cable were still ok] - see some links to pictures in my previous posts). Once the cable was off completely, the symptoms changed: battery light on constantly, voltage stable at 14.7V, but now it was also stalling when at idle rpm. Then I bought the pigtail #118 from Ford ($37) and did the repair. Car is running normally ever since. (knocking on wood 3 times). Note that I did not change the alternator, and did not change the voltage regulator! Here's the link to the pictures again: Pictures
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Replying to: axelv (Aug 02, 2009 10:29 am) |
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Does anyone know of an electrical wiring issue that can cause alternators to fail? I drive a 2002 Focus ZTS and have replaced the alternator twice already and am now looking at alternator #4. The alternator in the car is barely 7 months old and today the battery light came on and stayed on, not even going off when I revved the engine to higher RPMs as I have usually seen it do when the alternator was the issue. Had the charging system tested at Auto Zone who said the battery was fine and it was the alternator. I find it hard to believe that the brand new alternator just randomly decided not to work at all halfway through today. It was also coincidental that one headlight went out yesterday and I had just had a mechanic friend replace the bulb today just before the drive home when the battery light came on. He didn't mess with anything but the light, but I have a hard time believing they aren't somehow related. The first alternator went bad in August of 2006, when it started charging intermittently. Replaced it with a remanufactured alternator and got a new battery. Then that alternator supposedly went bad in late December of 2008. The symptoms that time around included some less typical for a bad alternator (i.e. audio system randomly rebooting in the middle of a drive) and I was suspicious of an underlying electrical issue. I mentioned my concerns to the guys at the Tuffy's where I had to take it (car wouldn't hold a charge more than 3 minutes so I had to take it to the closest possible auto shop). They pretty much just patronized me, told me they'd check, and acted like I was an idiot for thinking it could be anything other than the alternator. The alternator they put in is still under warranty so I shouldn't have a problem getting that replaced but I don't want to keep treating this rather expensive symptom if the real issue is something else. From what I gather from reading others' complaints, there are a lot of electrical/alternator problems with the Focus, so if anyone has any ideas about what could be causing my '02 to eat alternators, I'd really appreciate it!
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Replying to: floridagirl85 (Aug 16, 2009 12:52 pm) |
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Replying to: floridagirl85 (Aug 16, 2009 12:52 pm) My name is Cliff-an old Ford mechanic. #1.check the wiring plug in at the alt. pull slightly on the wiring at the plug in to see if you have any loose connectors also check plug in wiring for any sign of (GREEN) corrosion. Next check BOTH ends of each battery cable and make sure they are CLEAN & TIGHT. Next check that you have a GOOD ground from the eng to the body. You should have approx 14.2 volts at the battery with the eng at 1000 rpm and a good load on the system, headlights, blower motor on high,wipers on. Let me know what you find out. |
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| Two years mine, no problem except ignition locked up a year ago. But tonight... tried to start it... ignition key turned, but engine wouldn't turn over... very faint click, no dash lights but map lights and dome light worked (bit faint). I wanted to push car out of parking spot to get a boost, but couldn't even get the transmission (auto) into neutral (locked in park). CAA arrived and used an "Eliminator" to boost, car started fine. I headed home (20 mins, highway speed). Everything seemed fine. About 2 mins from home, some of the dash lights came on, car seemed to sputter a bit, but didn't stall. I pumped the gas a bit, car responded. At a stop light, I put into neutral and rev'd, car responded. Dash lights went back to normal (none on). Once home, switch off, and tried to restart... nothing. Remote Key Entry will unlock driver door, no other doors... and won't lock anything. I had to use the key to lock doors. Hatch (stn wgn) won't lock. Tomorrow, I'll check cables to battery for corrosion, check connection to alternator and check ground. Any other thoughts? Where is the GEM ? | |
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The front and rear nearside side lights have stopped working!!! any ideas what could be wrong? At the back the same bulb is also the break, the break light work but not the side light. the bulbs are good (checked), front and back. any thoughts
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