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Hatchbacks Ford Focus Ford Focus Electrical and Lighting Problems
286 messages, Last post on Nov 13, 2009 at 4:52 PM
You are in the Ford Focus Forum. Your Host is pf_flyer
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Hey all, My 05 focus headlight is out. Drivers side. I can just get my hand in there on an odd angle and can grab the bulb but cant turn the bulb (arthritis strikes again!) Is it normally a hand turn thing? I think it should be, most cars are. Any tricks to get the stubborn thing to turn? , and which way?? the manual is not clear.. When standing in front of the car looking in at the engine does it turn, top to the middle of the car or top the the outside towards the fender? Thanks in advance .. Brian..
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Replying to: the_mage (Jul 16, 2009 8:16 am)  But back to your Focus... take a look in there if you can. Sometimes there's a locking ring or wire retaining clip that needs to be released before you can pull the bulb out. I think the Focus might have a wire clip. Also, since the bulb assembly has an O-ring on it to seal out moisture, it may be a bit tight in the hole as well.
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Replying to: pf_flyer (Jul 16, 2009 12:00 pm) |
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What were you told it needed ? 1. Check ALL cables to battery and alt. Ground cable also, both ends of cables must be clean & tight. 2. have battery load tested with proper tester. 3. Have alt output tested under load with proper tester. Let me know what you find out. Cliff |
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Replying to: maestro52 (Oct 05, 2005 4:36 am) |
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2001 Focus ZX3 2L Zetec 120k miles. Hi everyone, I'm new here and "enjoy" reading about the Focus problems. Let me start with a short intro. I like my Focus, drove it for 80k miles within a little more than 4 yrs. No huge issues. Had to replace two front springs because they broke (!). A few more suspension issues. Other than that no bigger issues. Until recently. I noticed the same symptoms others have described quite well. But read on as I can add a new bit to the story and have a link to a picture. At about 120k miles I started to have the red battery warning light come on intermittently. This progressed slowly into flickering instrument lights, and also the fan motor slowing to a level one when set to level 4. Also intermittently. This progressed to appear more often but the car was running fine. Idle was ok, power development, starting in the morning, all no problem. Then I decided to look into the issue and held a volt meter to the battery while engine running. 15.3 to 15.8 and lately 16.3 Volts, varying rapidly within the range. My book says that the voltage regulator is definitely bad if there's a voltage higher than 14 at the battery when the engine is running. Can anyone confirm this? Or does this also depend on the regulator's voltage reference? Anyway. I planned to take the alternator out and put a used one in ($50) myself. So I started to work on that. In the process, I tried to pull the connector in the back of the alt (white/blue/red wires) and noticed, that the red wire was loose. Pulling a little and it came off completely. All full with green deposits (see picture below). So now I also need a new pigtail to the main harness there. I guess. So I started the car back up, and now, here's the new bit of information. Now the battery light is on permanently. Also the car started stalling at idle. So anyone with that symptom (permanently lit battery light, and stalling at idle), please check that red cable on the back of your alt. Let me know what you find. Another thing now is, that the max voltage at the battery when engine on has stabilized at 14.6 to 14.65 Volts. WTH? So experts, what do you think? Do I need a new pigtail only? Or also a new voltage regulator/alternator? Any help greatly appreciated. Link to the picture.
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Replying to: axelv (Jul 29, 2009 6:07 pm) Sounds like you're looking at replacing the voltage regulator to me.
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Replying to: pf_flyer (Jul 30, 2009 2:48 am)
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Replying to: axelv (Jul 30, 2009 4:40 am) My gut is telling me it's the voltage regulator. If you're rationalizing the 14.6 as the regulator functioning again, just that it's getting bad input because of a bad wire, then the regulator was functioning all along. Problem with that line of thought is that that's not how voltage regulators work. They are a device that puts out a steady set voltage, period. When they don't, they have, by definition, stopped working and need to be replaced. My gut is also telling me that your now permanent waring lights are the result of damage done to electronics by the unregulated voltage you were experiencing. I hope I'm wrong.
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Replying to: pf_flyer (Jul 30, 2009 12:44 pm) |
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