Last post on Dec 11, 2013 at 5:07 AM
You are in the Ford Focus
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Ford Focus SVT, Ford Focus, Lights, Electrical, Coupe, Hatchback, Sedan, Wagon
#219 of 509 Brake lights going crazy ! 2001 ZX3
Apr 03, 2009 (3:29 am)
Well, my brakes lights stay on whenever they feel like it. Most of the the time they get stuck on after 30 minutes or so. This is only when car is running and in gear ( auto trans ) Will not do it if car is in park or ignition key on. Only when engine is running. It did happen one time after 10 minutes of driving, but only once.This started about two months ago, at that time I started replacing parts. I've read every single post involving the brakelight/hazard problem. I've also read literally 100's on other forums with no resolution. The 2000-01 Focus is the only year that uses the hazard switch to also work the brake lights, tails only not the 3rd brake light. I the stop light switch twice, no change. I have used three different hazard switches, problem returns no matter which one I use. One is factory original, one less then a year old, and one brand new. All are Ford parts, no aftermarket. So those two items are fine. I completely disassembled all the rear wiring and cleaned all contacts and grounds, no change. Not a fuse problem because I do have working brake lights most of the time. Check wiring going into hatch, peeled back rubber boot and repaired any exposed wires. This is quite common in the Focus hatch, so that's the first thing I did. No change. The directionals will flash when lights are stuck on until last night. I went for a 30-40 minute ride and the lights got stuck. I can see the glow from my side mirrors, of course only at night. I never know during the day. The only way to shut them off is to unplug the hazard switch, but that's only cutting the power source. If I wait for 15-20 minutes and plug it back in they will stay off. The switch does get warm but that's because the lights are on, it stays cool when lights not stuck. Back to last night. When I got the car home I put it in neutral and tried the turn signals. I put the right turn on and the left side was blinking. WTF ! I got out and checked, the lights were flashing like a school bus. Each side flashing opposite of the other. Is something heating up after awhile ? I have no clue. This year Focus does not have a separate flasher unit that I could try. It's all through the hazard switch.
New stop light switch(2)=nothing
New hazard switch(3)=nothing
Hatch wiring repaired=nothing
New multifunction switch=nothing
All fuses good
#220 of 509 Battery Issue
Apr 23, 2009 (8:02 pm)
Okay, here's the problem. I purchased a 2003 Focus wagon in FL and drove it back to NY. As I drove up, no problems except a bad tire. I never stopped for more than three hours and never had a problem starting up the car. I get back to NY and park in the street overnight, the next morning I had some difficulty starting the car, real slow turning over like a weak battery. It kicked over and I pulled it into the driveway (running a little rough). Three days later I came back and it barely started. I ran it highway speed for about 45 min. When I arrived home, it started up no problem. It sits for two days, and today it turned over very weakly and didn't start. The battery is 3 yo (8/06) and is presently charging in the basement. What steps should I take to diagnose the problem, i.e. what are the likely problems and what order should I proceed in.
I was thinking
1) Charge battery overnight / take it to a local shop to have them check it, replace if necessary.
2) Since the battery is only 3 years old it seems unlikely that the battery is the only problem. Once I check / replace the battery, I should check the charging system. If the charging system isn't the problem, then I can narrow it down to a bad battery / short in wiring.
3) If the charging system is bad, the culprit is either the alternator or the wiring. I can remove the alternator and have them check it. If the alternator checks OK then it must be wiring from the alternator to batt.
What I'm trying to do is avoid replacing the battery & having the "new" battery die like the old one and like others have had on this thread. Tips, Tricks?
Thanks in advance
#221 of 509 Re: Battery Issue [chirps]
Apr 23, 2009 (8:32 pm)
AFTER U CHARGE BATTERY, hAVE IT LOAD TESTED, IT SHOULD HOLD 9.6VOLTS FOR 15 SEC. WHEN LOADED TO 1/2 THE RATED CAP. OF THE BATTERY. A BATTERY THAT IS 3 YEARS OLD COULD WELL BE BAD IF IT WAS A CHEAP BATT TO BEGIN WITH. MAKE SURE YOUR CABLES ARE ( CLEAN AND TIGHT ON BOTH ENDS.
#222 of 509 Re: Battery Issue [oldfordmech]
Apr 23, 2009 (9:06 pm)
okay, suppose the battery is bad. I presume you mean check the cables on the alternator side and the positive battery terminal + negative battery terminal + negative ground are tight. Once these are tight, should I just assume the alternator is okay? Any tips for further testing to make sure the new battery doesn't get killed by some other fluke in the system? I'll post after I get results back from the battery test. Just to add the battery is a Diehard Gold. Personally I like interstate MT.
Apr 24, 2009 (5:20 pm)
A diehard gold should be good, after u have a known good battery installed,to test the alt, get a digital volt meter. your alt should put out 14.2 volts at 1000 rpm with your lights,heater,and wipers on, or pretty close to 14 volts. if it does that then your alt is ok. let me know what u find.
#224 of 509 Re: slow cranking [oldfordmech]
Apr 26, 2009 (4:03 pm)
Turned out to be a bad battery after all. Put in a new battery and everything seems to be ok. There is one other small problem. As I turn the wheel (more pronounced with lower speeds), as it moves back to center there's a little back and forth movement that I feel. Tie-rods? Ball Joints? Axles? Any tips on how to diag. would be great.
#225 of 509 PLAY IN STEERING WHEEL
Apr 27, 2009 (9:22 am)
HOW MANY MILES ON YOUR CAR? TO TEST TIE RODS, JACK UP 1 FT WHEEL , GRAB THE TIRE AT THE FRONT & BACK AND ROCK IT BACK & FORTH. IF U HAVE ANY PLAY,HAVE SOMEONE ROCK THE WHEEL WHILE U LOOK AT THE TIE-ROD END FOR PLAY.( TO REPLACE,REMOVE COTTER KEY,THEN NUT, THEN LOOSEN JAM NUT ON TIE-ROD.NOW SMACK THE DOG-P--- OUT OF THE SPINDLE WHERE THE TIE ROD GOES THROUGH IT. IT WILL POP LOOSE, COUNT THE # OF TURNS IT TAKES TO REMOVE OLD END AND REINSTALL NEW ONE THE SAME # OF TURNS -- ABOUT A 10 MIN. JOB )
DO THE SAME WITH THE OTHER FT.WHEEL.
GOOD LUUCK-LET ME KNOW
#226 of 509 HELP ME PLEASE!!!!!
Apr 30, 2009 (4:37 pm)
I have a 2000 ford focus and for bout 4 or 5 months now, the back tail,brake and signal lights dont work.And the hazard lights stay on. I have had 5 different people look at it and no one can it me whats wrong with it. I have had the bulbs replaced, fuses changed, new signal switches. They still dont work. If no one can help me PLEASE email me back at sprice82hotmail.com PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE someone help me.
Apr 30, 2009 (6:59 pm)
I WORKED AS A FORD TECH BACK IN 2000, WE HAD A FORD CAMPAIGN TO REPLACE THE WIRING LOOM THAT RUNS FROM THE UPPER LEFT CONNECTOR , INSIDE TRUNK, RUNS THROUGH THE TRUNK LID, TO THE LIC.PLATE LIGHTS AND BACKUP LIGHTS, IT WOULD RUB AND SHORT OUT INSIDE TRUNK LID, CHECK W/FORD AND SEE IF THIS WAS EVER DONE TO YOUR CAR.
#228 of 509 Tail light problems
May 05, 2009 (12:19 am)
Hi all, I have a 2002 Ford Focus which I've had now for almost 5 years. A week ago I noticed that my drivers side tail lamp was not working yet the brake light worked fine. I replaced the bulb and checked all the fuses. The fuses were fine and I replaced the bulb anyway. The problem still persists. The passenger side works fine with both tail and brake lights working as normal. Now on the drivers side the dipped headlight ( again on the drivers side ) has failed which seems strange/odd as its on the same side ( drivers side ) as the failing tail light. Hope anyone can help. Regards Paul