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Ford Focus Electrical and Lighting Problems

286 messages, Last post on Nov 13, 2009 at 4:52 PM
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If i used the multimeter well,the drainage is 2.5 amp .After i pulled out all the fuses and relay (motor side,passenger side) the only change was at the main power sup. (#7)fuse ,droped to 1.2 amp.when i pulled out.Look like the alternator?Could i get a bad one when i changed the alternator last time?Thank you guys!
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Replying to: gabors (Feb 03, 2009 10:13 am) |
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Well, my brakes lights stay on whenever they feel like it. Most of the the time they get stuck on after 30 minutes or so. This is only when car is running and in gear ( auto trans ) Will not do it if car is in park or ignition key on. Only when engine is running. It did happen one time after 10 minutes of driving, but only once.This started about two months ago, at that time I started replacing parts. I've read every single post involving the brakelight/hazard problem. I've also read literally 100's on other forums with no resolution. The 2000-01 Focus is the only year that uses the hazard switch to also work the brake lights, tails only not the 3rd brake light. I the stop light switch twice, no change. I have used three different hazard switches, problem returns no matter which one I use. One is factory original, one less then a year old, and one brand new. All are Ford parts, no aftermarket. So those two items are fine. I completely disassembled all the rear wiring and cleaned all contacts and grounds, no change. Not a fuse problem because I do have working brake lights most of the time. Check wiring going into hatch, peeled back rubber boot and repaired any exposed wires. This is quite common in the Focus hatch, so that's the first thing I did. No change. The directionals will flash when lights are stuck on until last night. I went for a 30-40 minute ride and the lights got stuck. I can see the glow from my side mirrors, of course only at night. I never know during the day. The only way to shut them off is to unplug the hazard switch, but that's only cutting the power source. If I wait for 15-20 minutes and plug it back in they will stay off. The switch does get warm but that's because the lights are on, it stays cool when lights not stuck. Back to last night. When I got the car home I put it in neutral and tried the turn signals. I put the right turn on and the left side was blinking. WTF ! I got out and checked, the lights were flashing like a school bus. Each side flashing opposite of the other. Is something heating up after awhile ? I have no clue. This year Focus does not have a separate flasher unit that I could try. It's all through the hazard switch. New stop light switch(2)=nothing New hazard switch(3)=nothing Hatch wiring repaired=nothing New multifunction switch=nothing All fuses good |
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Okay, here's the problem. I purchased a 2003 Focus wagon in FL and drove it back to NY. As I drove up, no problems except a bad tire. I never stopped for more than three hours and never had a problem starting up the car. I get back to NY and park in the street overnight, the next morning I had some difficulty starting the car, real slow turning over like a weak battery. It kicked over and I pulled it into the driveway (running a little rough). Three days later I came back and it barely started. I ran it highway speed for about 45 min. When I arrived home, it started up no problem. It sits for two days, and today it turned over very weakly and didn't start. The battery is 3 yo (8/06) and is presently charging in the basement. What steps should I take to diagnose the problem, i.e. what are the likely problems and what order should I proceed in. I was thinking 1) Charge battery overnight / take it to a local shop to have them check it, replace if necessary. 2) Since the battery is only 3 years old it seems unlikely that the battery is the only problem. Once I check / replace the battery, I should check the charging system. If the charging system isn't the problem, then I can narrow it down to a bad battery / short in wiring. 3) If the charging system is bad, the culprit is either the alternator or the wiring. I can remove the alternator and have them check it. If the alternator checks OK then it must be wiring from the alternator to batt. What I'm trying to do is avoid replacing the battery & having the "new" battery die like the old one and like others have had on this thread. Tips, Tricks? Thanks in advance Sam
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Replying to: chirps (Apr 23, 2009 8:02 pm)
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Replying to: oldfordmech (Apr 23, 2009 8:32 pm) |
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A diehard gold should be good, after u have a known good battery installed,to test the alt, get a digital volt meter. your alt should put out 14.2 volts at 1000 rpm with your lights,heater,and wipers on, or pretty close to 14 volts. if it does that then your alt is ok. let me know what u find.
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Replying to: oldfordmech (Apr 24, 2009 5:20 pm) |
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HOW MANY MILES ON YOUR CAR? TO TEST TIE RODS, JACK UP 1 FT WHEEL , GRAB THE TIRE AT THE FRONT & BACK AND ROCK IT BACK & FORTH. IF U HAVE ANY PLAY,HAVE SOMEONE ROCK THE WHEEL WHILE U LOOK AT THE TIE-ROD END FOR PLAY.( TO REPLACE,REMOVE COTTER KEY,THEN NUT, THEN LOOSEN JAM NUT ON TIE-ROD.NOW SMACK THE DOG-P--- OUT OF THE SPINDLE WHERE THE TIE ROD GOES THROUGH IT. IT WILL POP LOOSE, COUNT THE # OF TURNS IT TAKES TO REMOVE OLD END AND REINSTALL NEW ONE THE SAME # OF TURNS -- ABOUT A 10 MIN. JOB ) DO THE SAME WITH THE OTHER FT.WHEEL. GOOD LUUCK-LET ME KNOW |
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I have a 2000 ford focus and for bout 4 or 5 months now, the back tail,brake and signal lights dont work.And the hazard lights stay on. I have had 5 different people look at it and no one can it me whats wrong with it. I have had the bulbs replaced, fuses changed, new signal switches. They still dont work. If no one can help me PLEASE email me back at sprice82
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