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Ford Focus Electrical and Lighting Problems

286 messages,  Last post on Nov 13, 2009 at 4:52 PM

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#213 of 286 2001 fucus lx problem by gabors Jan 28, 2009 (6:10 am)
Thank you for the respond!Is the GEM still under current even if i turn it the key off?I asking because the battery get die sometimes if i live it the car for a few hours.something has to pull it the current bad and fast(sometimes just 1-2 hours enought to kill the battery)even if notthing is "ON" .Thank you!..........Gabe. Replies to this message: oldfordmech (Jan 28, 2009 5:11 pm)
#214 of 286 Re: 2001 fucus lx problem [gabors] by oldfordmech Jan 28, 2009 (5:11 pm)
Replying to: gabors (Jan 28, 2009 6:10 am) Info only, The GEM is a ( generic electronic module ) that only supplies the ground to many electrical items in your car but not all items. To find a short that would drain a battery in 2 hrs, do the following, disconnect the batt ground from the batt, if you have access to an amp meter (not volt meter) connect it in series between the neg batt post and the neg cable, unplug under hood light if you have 1 . every thing turned off and doors closed, your amp meter should not read over 0.5 or 1/2 amp. If it going to run the battery down in 2 hrs it will arc like a welding cable,if it does arc,start taking out fuses 1 at a time and test cable for arc, if strong arc still remains after all fuses removed, then remove the pos red wire from the alt and test for arc at neg post again, You may also have a fuse box under the hood with high amp fuses in it. If you do start there. let me know what you find. Cliff
#215 of 286 2001 focus lx problem by gabors Jan 28, 2009 (8:01 pm)
Thank you Cliff!Look like on the weekend i gonna have time to do it!I keep it post!
#216 of 286 2001 focus lx problem by gabors Jan 28, 2009 (8:20 pm)
Hey!Can i use those popular digital multimeters(cost about 10$-15$) is it gonna do the same job ?Thanks!
#217 of 286 2001 focus lx problem by gabors Feb 03, 2009 (10:13 am)
If i used the multimeter well,the drainage is 2.5 amp .After i pulled out all the fuses and relay (motor side,passenger side) the only change was at the main power sup. (#7)fuse ,droped to 1.2 amp.when i pulled out.Look like the alternator?Could i get a bad one when i changed the alternator last time?Thank you guys! Replies to this message: oldfordmech (Feb 03, 2009 4:50 pm)
#218 of 286 Re: 2001 focus lx problem [gabors] by oldfordmech Feb 03, 2009 (4:50 pm)
Replying to: gabors (Feb 03, 2009 10:13 am) You bet you could have a bad alt. Disconnect the red batt wire from the alt, and check your drain at the battery. If you have a draw of 2.5 AMPS that will draw out 25 Amps in 10 hrs. now you see how fast a batt runs down. You should not have over 1/2 AMP draw. Make sure your key is in your pocket, all doors closed,and hood light bulb disconnected.
#219 of 286 Brake lights going crazy ! 2001 ZX3 by terryxb Apr 03, 2009 (3:29 am)
Well, my brakes lights stay on whenever they feel like it. Most of the the time they get stuck on after 30 minutes or so. This is only when car is running and in gear ( auto trans ) Will not do it if car is in park or ignition key on. Only when engine is running. It did happen one time after 10 minutes of driving, but only once.This started about two months ago, at that time I started replacing parts. I've read every single post involving the brakelight/hazard problem. I've also read literally 100's on other forums with no resolution. The 2000-01 Focus is the only year that uses the hazard switch to also work the brake lights, tails only not the 3rd brake light. I the stop light switch twice, no change. I have used three different hazard switches, problem returns no matter which one I use. One is factory original, one less then a year old, and one brand new. All are Ford parts, no aftermarket. So those two items are fine. I completely disassembled all the rear wiring and cleaned all contacts and grounds, no change. Not a fuse problem because I do have working brake lights most of the time. Check wiring going into hatch, peeled back rubber boot and repaired any exposed wires. This is quite common in the Focus hatch, so that's the first thing I did. No change. The directionals will flash when lights are stuck on until last night. I went for a 30-40 minute ride and the lights got stuck. I can see the glow from my side mirrors, of course only at night. I never know during the day. The only way to shut them off is to unplug the hazard switch, but that's only cutting the power source. If I wait for 15-20 minutes and plug it back in they will stay off. The switch does get warm but that's because the lights are on, it stays cool when lights not stuck. Back to last night. When I got the car home I put it in neutral and tried the turn signals. I put the right turn on and the left side was blinking. WTF ! I got out and checked, the lights were flashing like a school bus. Each side flashing opposite of the other. Is something heating up after awhile ? I have no clue. This year Focus does not have a separate flasher unit that I could try. It's all through the hazard switch. New stop light switch(2)=nothing New hazard switch(3)=nothing Hatch wiring repaired=nothing New multifunction switch=nothing All fuses good
#220 of 286 Battery Issue by chirps Apr 23, 2009 (8:02 pm)
Okay, here's the problem. I purchased a 2003 Focus wagon in FL and drove it back to NY. As I drove up, no problems except a bad tire. I never stopped for more than three hours and never had a problem starting up the car. I get back to NY and park in the street overnight, the next morning I had some difficulty starting the car, real slow turning over like a weak battery. It kicked over and I pulled it into the driveway (running a little rough). Three days later I came back and it barely started. I ran it highway speed for about 45 min. When I arrived home, it started up no problem. It sits for two days, and today it turned over very weakly and didn't start. The battery is 3 yo (8/06) and is presently charging in the basement. What steps should I take to diagnose the problem, i.e. what are the likely problems and what order should I proceed in.   I was thinking 1) Charge battery overnight / take it to a local shop to have them check it, replace if necessary. 2) Since the battery is only 3 years old it seems unlikely that the battery is the only problem. Once I check / replace the battery, I should check the charging system. If the charging system isn't the problem, then I can narrow it down to a bad battery / short in wiring. 3) If the charging system is bad, the culprit is either the alternator or the wiring. I can remove the alternator and have them check it. If the alternator checks OK then it must be wiring from the alternator to batt.   What I'm trying to do is avoid replacing the battery & having the "new" battery die like the old one and like others have had on this thread. Tips, Tricks?   Thanks in advance Sam Replies to this message: oldfordmech (Apr 23, 2009 8:32 pm) chirps (Apr 23, 2009 9:06 pm)
#221 of 286 Re: Battery Issue [chirps] by oldfordmech Apr 23, 2009 (8:32 pm)
Replying to: chirps (Apr 23, 2009 8:02 pm) AFTER U CHARGE BATTERY, hAVE IT LOAD TESTED, IT SHOULD HOLD 9.6VOLTS FOR 15 SEC. WHEN LOADED TO 1/2 THE RATED CAP. OF THE BATTERY. A BATTERY THAT IS 3 YEARS OLD COULD WELL BE BAD IF IT WAS A CHEAP BATT TO BEGIN WITH. MAKE SURE YOUR CABLES ARE ( CLEAN AND TIGHT ON BOTH ENDS. Replies to this message: chirps (Apr 23, 2009 9:06 pm)
#222 of 286 Re: Battery Issue [oldfordmech] by chirps Apr 23, 2009 (9:06 pm)
Replying to: oldfordmech (Apr 23, 2009 8:32 pm) okay, suppose the battery is bad. I presume you mean check the cables on the alternator side and the positive battery terminal + negative battery terminal + negative ground are tight. Once these are tight, should I just assume the alternator is okay? Any tips for further testing to make sure the new battery doesn't get killed by some other fluke in the system? I'll post after I get results back from the battery test. Just to add the battery is a Diehard Gold. Personally I like interstate MT.

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