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Hatchbacks Ford Focus Ford Focus Electrical and Lighting Problems
286 messages, Last post on Nov 13, 2009 at 4:52 PM
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Alright, I have a 2002 SVT (it just hit 77k) About 10,000 miles ago, i had some crazy hesitation at 2800-3200 rpm. the rpm would not surge or drop the car just would pull against me, and be get a little jerky. well i changed everything i could afford in way of the fuel and electrical system (plugs and wires, altenator, battery, fuel filter) no help...well after visiting some forums, i figured out that it was an issue with the MAF and that all i had to do was have the computer updated at the dealer. i did and tada!!!! problem gone.... well about 1000 miles ago, this problem seems to be returning...but the hesitation is not nearly as violent as before and comes in more between 2800 and 3000...so really i don't know if it's the same issue or not, it is not nearly as consistent as before either,,,it won't always do it. I really can't afford to pay $100 every 8-10k miles if it is the computer again. i love the car and hate to give up on it. I just want to know if anyone has any suggestions as to what this may be, or if they have had similar problems...if it is the computer again, should the dealer flash it for free since it's been such a short time? (if it matters, i have random dash lights on too, they've been on since i purchased the car at 48k, my traction control and brake light) 
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Replying to: ladyfocus (Oct 26, 2008 6:27 am)  Someone just told us about checking out the computer---why didn't we do that right away..? So, that's what we will do soon, & keep our fingers crossed also. I'll post results; maybe it'll help someone else.
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| I have been having a problem with the drivers side door not locking either with the key or the remote on a 2005 Focus. All the other doors lock, but not the drivers side. The car went dead the other day and I had it towed to the dealer. The car wouldn't start, but all the gauges would be flashing,interior and headlights worked. The dealer said there was a bad cell in the battery and replaced it. When I asked about the door lock situation, they said it was working . When I picked the car up, the first thing I checked was the lock. Not working. Waited around 3 hours for them to run a diagnostic but finally had to leave. Any ideas? | |
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Replying to: gembot (Jan 24, 2008 2:06 am) |
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I had a problem with the fuse for the headlight switch (f32)blowing. Cuts power to the running lights and instrument lights. replaced headlight switch assembly (includes relay) and problem seems to be fixed. 
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Headlight switch did not fix the problem. Blew the fuse again.
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My daughter has owned an 04 ZTS for a couple years now. Several months ago the car started bucking or missing every now and then. She says while this is happening there is a clicking noise coming from left front dash, probably the fuse/relay box and the radio cuts off. This only happens maybe a couple times a month for about 20 or 30 seconds. She says it feels like the car is going to quit. After the surging stops, the car runs perfect for the next week or two. I have driven the car each time after this happens and I can never re-create the problem. Any ideas?
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Replying to: robnor1 (Jan 07, 2009 7:26 pm) Steve |
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Yesterday I was rear ended, not any apparent physical damage. That night it was noticed that the tail lights (running and parking) and license plate lights were not working. All other lights (headlights, dash, directionals, etc) were working o.k. I replaced all of the bulbs for the running lights and license plate lights. Still did not work. All the fuses were fine. Not sure what to do next? Would appreciate any suggestions. Keep it relatively simple... I do not have a lot of auto electrical experience... Thanks in advance
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Replying to: desertbum (Jan 08, 2009 7:19 pm) 1. get a 12 volt tist light. Hook the ground clip to a good clean metal ground, touch the other end to BOTH sides of the fuses w/the park lights on. If only 1 side of fuse lights the test light you have a bad fuse.If all fuses ck ok go to next step. 2. Remove rear bulbs.ground clamp end of test light again to a GOOD body ground. now touch other end to bulb sockets contacts (w/park lights on) and one contact should light test light, if no light follow wiring to plug in connector, poss-under L.R. corner of car. Unplug and ck for a hot wire there w/test light. 3. If you have power at light sockets,ground the test light to the other contact in socket,may need to use a paper clip to get into bulb socket, if your fuses are good,WITH TEST LIGHT, my money is on a bad ground. 4. Do this and send a note to let me know what you found Cliff |
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