Last post on Feb 27, 2013 at 10:58 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel
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Jeep Liberty, Lights, Electrical, Diesel, SUV
#305 of 372 Changing to LED bulbs some issues
Aug 25, 2010 (8:38 am)
I've started changing over to LED bulbs in my 2006 Liberty Sport (gas - 82K) and have run into some issues
1. Tail/Stop replaced bulbs ......no issues ....plug n play
2. Turn signal - LED in rear....... Passenger side no problem! Drivers side blink rapidly!
I have no idea how to add a 6 ohm 25 w resistor (which would kind of defeat the purpose of reduceing heat and current drain). Any ideas?
3. Dome lights .....two in front work great......installed the one in the cargo light and suddenly all three glow dimly all the time. Installed the OEM bulb in the cargo light .....all is good unless the cargo lamp switch is turned at the lamp, if the switch is on the front two dome lamps glow dimly.
After reading all the posts on this thread I feel that I am very fortunate that I have had very very few issues with this Jeep (which gets used hard). I have added 3 - 100w driving lights, use 100w bulbs in the headlights, 2 - 55w backup lights, 4 - 100w strobes, 4 - 20w strobes, mirror turn signals, and run 2 - 100w Ham radios plus a motorized HF antenna. So if anyone should have electrical problems it should be me.
I look forward to any insight y'all can share with me. I can supply anyone with the complete service manual and parts manual for the 2006 Liberty (on DVD) that wants it at no charge.
#306 of 372 Multiple Problems 02 Jeep Liberty
Sep 23, 2010 (9:50 pm)
New here, not sure of the proper etiquette, so will just jump right in and hope someone can tell me. 02 Jeep liberty 3.7L V6 2WD. Sisters car -- She tells me that is sticking in 3rd, and won't shift to OD. Sometimes when it DOES go into OD, and you let off the gas, will dang near give you whiplash with the downshift, and then will not go back into OD. So I drove it, and it stayed in 3rd all this morning. On my way home, it went into OD fine, and ran about 2200 RPM's at 65-70 MPH.....Till I let off the gas and it downshifted, and wouldn't go back into OD. So, I get off at the exit, and stop, and the headlights go out, come on. Weird!! So keep driving. Poor guy in front of me must've thought I was trying to get him to pull over or something, because for the next 5 miles, on, off, on off, BRIGHT, off, on. Noticed also in the last few miles getting here that acceleration from a stop, have to really put my foot in it for it to go.....Pulled into the incline driveway at a crawl, even tho I had my foot in the gas pretty good. Found out that the prev owner had to replace the motor, and some JACKIE put the wrong computer in it, and JACKIED some stuff up, so guy had to go get a new computer, but they think he may have gotten one from salvage -- So, do I need a computer, a wiring harness?? both??? Oh, and the A/C blowere motor works on 4 only and only about 25% of the time. THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP!!! I am tryin to help her out, but don't really know with this many things going on....was going to change the transmission filter as we are at a little over 153000 miles----but wony if that will possibly cause tranny problems, and possibly just a relay or bad connection!!!! THANK YOU!!!
#308 of 372 Re: 2008 Liberty door lock and washer fluid problem [kvn1021]
Sep 25, 2010 (4:16 pm)
I too had a 2008 Liberty Limited 4x4 auto tranny that had some similar sounding electrical issues. I would have windhsield wipers start either front or rear with fluid spraying with no key in the car. Sometimes just opening the door without the keyfob would trigger a weird electircal response with horn blowing yadda yadda. Mine was still under warranty and the dealer replaced the TIPM (totally integrated power module) which they say controls the electrical system and doing some quick searches the symptoms sounded similar. It's around a $200 part, not saying it's your fix but something to inquire about.
#309 of 372 Re: 2008 Liberty door lock and washer fluid problem [jayphi1]
Sep 26, 2010 (7:27 am)
Ok, so yesterday, we replaced the transmission filter, and ended up putting in 7 additional qts of tran fluid after dropping the pan. So, think the transmission fluid must've been low to begin with. Since doing this, we haven't lost OD once, but is now shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd. We also found that the previous owner must've patched the PCV valve with a rubber 'L' boot, (why -- when the part is $4 at autozone, is beyond me)......So still shifting a little rough between 2nd and 3rd. Think maybe the loss of OD was due to low trans fluid. Drove all last nite, and no problems with the headlights. BUT now, if we shut the car doors, the doors lock automatically. Which was really bad last nite, because we got out of the car at a friends house, and were standing around in the driveway-- left keys in it, because we were right there. NOT RUNNING, KEYS OFF, and doors locked. And doors keep locking automatically....have no clue why -- and now, (we cleaned the posts on the battery also -- so reset), when we unlock the doors with the key, the alarm (horn) goes off until you hit the unlock button on the inside of the doors. Anyone have any clue as to the doors locking by themselves, and the alarm going off when unlocking the doors with the key??
#310 of 372 Help with LED
Oct 14, 2010 (10:57 am)
Hope someone can help!
I have a 2006 KJ Sport 3.7L, I have added an overhead console (EVIC from an '06 KJ) works great. I moved the stock map light to the rear where the cargo light was and replaced the stock bulbs with 24 LED pads in each side, everything works fine!
The problem comes with the front map/dome lights in the overhead console, they work fine with stock incandescent bulbs (192), when I install LED bulbs the lights will not shut off completely while driving!
They do shut off when the key is removed and the alarm is set.
Do I need to or can I install a separate ground for these lights?
I checked the circut with a VOM and found that there is 5.3V going to the bulbs at all times, this is not enough to light the incandescent bulbs but enough to cause the LED's to glow.
Does anyone know why there is voltage there all the time, and is there a way around this without using a load resistor that develops heat?
In the grand scheme of things this is not the biggest problem in the world and I could just say screw it and live with the yellowish light from the stock bulbs.............BUT........well y'all know what I mean!
Thanks in advance for your help.
#311 of 372 Jeep 2003 weird issue..
Oct 15, 2010 (8:12 pm)
The car was acting fine, drove it for 45 minutes with no issues. Parked it, tried starting it less than an hour later and it was dead, wouldn't even turn over. Jumped the car and it would work. Thinking it was a dead battery, changed the battery, Still the battery wouldn't hold a charge. When trying to restart the car after changing the battery and driving it 5 minutes it would turn over but not enough, and then took the key out of ignition and the engine tried 5 more times to start!! (freaked me out) Anyway, got jumped again and drove 30 minutes to my house and when i tried to restart it after the drive it wouldn't start.
Any ideas of what else could be broke?
Oct 16, 2010 (7:28 pm)
Acha CK the charging system if good (13.5 to 14.5 volt )
disconnect one terminal of battery and connect an amp meter in series to see
should not over one amp
#313 of 372 Re: jeep liberty 2005 electrical issues [jdean4]
Oct 25, 2010 (8:39 pm)
This past weekend it rained heavily here in the Northern Sierra. Sunday morning the horn started — intermittently at first, then just full on. I disconnected te battery. Then I called a reputable Jeep mechanic and he told me to buy a new battery because the "cheap" battery I had just bought a year ago probably had a short and was causing major voltage fluctuations, thus causing the problem. I got an nice new Interstate ( always wanted one but the problem persists and I'm down $100 for the battery. Today, the head and tail lights just started flashing as if the alarm was going off — I had pulled the horn fuse, so I don't know if the horn would have joined the ensemble — my guess is yes. We're at 60,000 miles and this Jeep has been great so far. But now it will not even run. If I disconnect the battery and reconnect after 20 minutes, the engine will turn over — but it shuts itself off after about 5 seconds. It seems like it has something to do with the security system. Incidentally, I also replaced the batteries in both FOBs — they were five years old.
Any help out there?
#314 of 372 Jeep Liberty 2005 won't start
Oct 26, 2010 (3:03 am)
Good morning, a friend's Jeep Liberty worked fine one evening, and then refused to turn over the next morning. She was able to get a jump, and the engine started, but she says that the engine died when she took her foot off of the gas. The jumper cables were connected the entire time, so my limited knowledge leads me to believe that the alternator is not at fault, again, since the vehicle started but then stopped after letting off of the accelerator. So, my question is: is there any sensor or other malfunction that might create this issue? It would be quite awesome to be able to get the vehicle up and running on her limited funds.
Thanks for any help!!