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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Starting and Stalling Difficulties
157 messages, Last post on Nov 06, 2009 at 1:02 PM
You are in the Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: xbeanx (Sep 27, 2009 11:26 pm) Got home from work went to where my Jeep was at. Turns out the code was flashing "misfire on cylinder 3" so i swapped the coil of cyl3 with the one on cyl1. I reset the code and let it idle.. sure enough after 5 mins of idle, it registered "misfire on cyl1" So i took one of my old original ignition coils (the onlyone that was in decent condition) and placed it in cyl1. The misfire was not apparent anymore. as it was the misfire was barely noticeable however now it was gone. so my conclusion is that maybe i had 2 bad coils? talk about bad luck. Outman, I saw what you had put in there about the throttlebody cleaner. i'll be doing that once i get paid next (this freakin breakdown sucked me dry just about) im sure that will help with keeping things in shape. I'm going to drive it around a bit and update in about a week (or sooner if theres another issue). Anyone think maybe the pcm is shorting the coils? i guess i'll have to see...if it does, that will be bad coil #3...i must really have super bad luck if thatw as the case! i'll still troll the forum in case anyone has anything else to look out for. I love my jeep...but was contemplating trade in for a 4door truck if it kept breaking on me 
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I, as like most in here have had the same problem with the vehicle staling out. I first came to this site this past weekend and did a little research before panicing. After reading 50 or so posts on the internet about this issue, I came to the conclusion that it may not be sensors but fuel line and vacuum issues. I purchased a fuel line additive to clean injectors for $2.99 and a can of gum cutter spray for $2.49. I began the process of cleaning up the fuel system and air intake system, My goal was to get to the intake manifold, Grabbing a flat head screw driver, I began disassembling the air intake apparatus. Still using the flat head screw drive. I loosened the clamps, loosened the plastic securing bolts on the main intake housing and pulled the main collection housing off the intake manifold. Using the gum cutter. I liberally sprayed the intake flapper while holding it open and was amazed at the amount of filth that was there. Upon closer inspection, as I was beginning to reassemble the parts, I noticed several of the vacuum hoses, connected to this unit, were cracked wide open. Further investigation left me with the conclusion that the hoses (rubber tubes) connecting to the main air intake were all cracked which caused unfiltered air to leak into the fuel combustion chamber ( IE:the dirty air intake flapper). The breakdown of these lines evidently lead to moisture being introduced into the fuel chamber causing the vehicle to run rough and stall out. As a quick fix for now . I used black electricians tape and sealed up the cracks in the hose lines. I will need to order all new lines for the vacuum system. After I taped each line, I re-assembled everything, having to remove the overflow tank for the radiator to get the hoses back on (you'll need a number 10 metric wrench for this, it is held by two (2) nuts to the fire wall). I tightened all the connections again with the flat head screw driver (use a long thin headed one). Next I un-hooked the battery cables, cleaned as needed and re-connected them. This reset the computer and the sensors allowing the motor light on the dash to go out. Knock on wood, it has been running without staling for two days now and it seems to have more power than before. My theory is that these cracks in the hose lines were allowing moisture and dirty air to get into the combustion chamber which messed up the fuel richness causing it not to ignite properly and miss fire hence the sensor failure. If I have any further problems I will post but for now everything is back to normal except for replacing the worn our air hoses.
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Replying to: duggar (Oct 06, 2009 3:36 am) Knock on wood so far my jeep is running fine.. i'll be checking the hoses as you did this weekend. |
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Replying to: duggar (Oct 06, 2009 3:36 am)
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Replying to: duggar (Oct 07, 2009 9:16 am) |
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Replying to: xbeanx (Sep 28, 2009 5:18 pm) |
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Replying to: pktechgirl (Oct 11, 2009 10:02 pm)  stop signs and red lights or while slowing down and not on the freeway because it is getting enough air plus has the forward momentum of the engine/transmission. Ours was filthy when we cleaned it. The dealer will tell you that there are all these error codes including "crank" and "camshaft" sensors that they will want to replace for $100's. Try the throttle body cleaner first, $7 is better than a $300 sensor that will just give you the same problem as soon as you drive it out of the service garage, which will just make them keep replacing more.
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Replying to: pktechgirl (Oct 11, 2009 10:02 pm)
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Replying to: jrlopez14 (Oct 12, 2009 12:51 pm) (Other things to check: replace the speed sensor itself)
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Replying to: jar452 (Nov 05, 2009 10:18 am) |
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SUVs Jeep Liberty and Jeep Liberty Diesel Jeep Liberty Starting and Stalling Difficulties
