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Sedans Chrysler 300M Chrysler 300M Overheating mystery
13 messages, Last post on Jul 04, 2008 at 4:28 PM
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I have a 1999 Chrysler 300M. It is overheating in a strange way. After driving 3 miles it begins to overheat. Sometimes it will overheat, then quickly drop back down to normal temperature, but then overheat again. When going up any grade it definitely overheats. I have had the car in for repair at two mechanics. Both have GIVEN UP on fixing the problem. Here is what they tried: Replacing the radiator, replacing both radiator fans, replacing the thermostat, replacing the water pump. The car does not lose coolant. None of these repairs has helped the problem what-so-ever. It's a mystery.
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Replying to: becaris (Oct 14, 2006 8:27 am)
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Replying to: quietflyer (Oct 14, 2006 4:02 pm) I don't know that the problem is the sensor because it overheats when you go up a grade... every time. It is slower to overheat on a level street or going downhill. If I get on a freeway and go 70+ mph it overheates, if I back off to 50 mph it cools back down somewhat.
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Replying to: becaris (Oct 15, 2006 7:46 pm) Now that I think about it, air in the system seems to be the most logical problem. You say it happens every time you go uphill. That would indicate (to me) that an air bubble is traveling forward to the water pump, in which case the coolant isn't going to be pushed through efficiently, if at all. You also say it happens when you're traveling at highway speeds. Again, that would indicate air is getting to the pump. The inherent cavatation of the pump at those speeds only exacerbates the problem and brings coolant circulation to pretty much a trickle. When you slow down, the cavatation is reduced and coolant flows more efficiently. In closing, just get the air out of the system and you'll be fine.  Good luck! 
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Replying to: tayl0rd (Oct 16, 2006 5:35 am)
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Replying to: becaris (Oct 16, 2006 9:02 am) |
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Replying to: becaris (Oct 14, 2006 8:27 am) Brenda |
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I have 1999 300m and it just started over heating. I rotated radiator flush in the system after it cooled down. I will began to drain after a days down time. Some things that I've noted is that the antifreeze was broken down and the last filler used prestone dex-cool with silicate. I am thinking that this may have cause slugging or just broke down the coolant's ability to perform. Q. Since I have opened a manual, although I do have some mechanical attitude, how to access the radiator drain plug and what bolts on the engine mount to remove to rock up the engine? |
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Q.1. Is it a good idea to cut into cooling system hoses to add a flush kit with the tee, like the one sold at auto stores? 2. Where is the easiest access to the radiator drain plug? 3. What bolts are to be removed to rock up the engine to replace the pulley compressor belts and serpentine belt? thanks |
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I found the problem, got it fixed. After I did the coolant flush, I started the car and notice one of two cooling fans not working. That also explains while the A/C didn't turn out cold air, nevertheless, I used a simple hand held diagnostic and it gave a code for "fan relay." They are located under the hood on the drivers side with the fuse box. Found blown fuse and the fuse was blown because of the fan motor seizing. Dual or combo fans cost about $300 new from MANUFACT. but I saw online for as little as $150. The labor is about $65-$70 hrly with about 2-2 1/2 hrs to do it right.
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