Last post on Jul 23, 2013 at 2:42 AM
You are in the Chrysler 300M
What is this discussion about?
Chrysler 300M, Engine, Sedan
#27 of 36 Re: 300M Overheating mystery [will_danner]
Nov 02, 2012 (10:06 am)
Chrysler Group LLC vehicle service manuals can be ordered through Tech Authority (Web site: http://techauthority.com)
If you need assistance with purchasing a manual, you can call Mopar's Tech Authority at 1-(800)-890-4038.
Chrysler Group LLC
#28 of 36 Re: 300M Overheating mystery [chryslergroup]
Nov 02, 2012 (6:24 pm)
The manuals I am offering are free of charge on CD , mailed FREE. They only cover 2000~2004 300M / Intrepid & Concorde vehicles.
#29 of 36 Re: 300M Overheating mystery [pitmanoeuvre]
Feb 24, 2013 (9:22 am)
My caregiver is having the EXACT same issue with her 99 300M. Could you please send me a copy of the manual? She took her car to SEVERAL mechanics to no avail! Yesterday she took it to Firestone (against my recommendation) and they told her that they aren't sure how/why but, there is air in her coolant system. They have checked EVERYTHING that you've mentioned in your very detailed posts (thank you for that btw) and can not figure it out. They did bleed the system but the air keeps coming back. They've recommended that she take the vehicle to the dealership.
#30 of 36 Re: 300M Overheating mystery [rdelgado1]
Feb 26, 2013 (8:59 am)
When you say that your caregiver's car has been fully checked , to me that means that : the thermostat was changed , the waterpump pressure was confirmed working , all hoses were checked , and the proper YELLOW Chrysler Coolant was replaced. Damage can occur from using the GREEN coolant because it does not contain the proper additives that an all aluminum engine requires. This means that the radiator could be blocked with deposits , where the radiator no longer passes heated fluid temperatures through it's fins to the outside air. If the radiator has alot of buildup inside it's cooling tubes , it becomes a hotbox to the engine , further increasing the engine's temperature as it builds up. The radiator should be fully flushed and inspected to see if there are signs of gross oxidization within it's tubes. The Chrysler Service Manuals specifically refer to the GREEN coolant as : FOR EMERGENCY USE ONLY. And "if" the GREEN coolant is used to top up or fill the system - it must be removed as soon as possible to avoid damaging the entire cooling system. In the case of older vehicles , it is NOT uncommon for radiators to be replaced due to oxidization and just because a radiator is NOT leaking - doesn't mean it's good. The quickest way to simply check a radiator , to see if it's fins are receiving and conducting heat , is to place your bare hand on the bumper side of the radiator while the engine is running or has been running 5~10 minutes. You should feel that the fins themselves are heating up , if NOT , then the radiator is NOT working. If the radiator fins remain cool or cold , the radiator is a BRICK.
If you want a copy of the (10,000+ page) Service Manuals on CD , just send the address where you want it sent to , to : bhthwhyahoo.ca
#31 of 36 Re: 300M Overheating mystery [pitmanoeuvre]
Mar 09, 2013 (1:17 am)
I having same problem with my 300m 1999, can you send me the repair manual in PDF if possible pls? It would help me a lot! Thanks!my email add is michaelbelanogmail.com
#32 of 36 Re: 300M Overheating mystery [pitmanoeuvre]
Apr 30, 2013 (9:36 am)
I can use the Cd. Email me at slmoultriegmail.com
#33 of 36 Re: 300M Overheating mystery [pitmanoeuvre]
May 20, 2013 (10:21 am)
I see you have offered the entire collection of Chrysler Service Technician Manuals , which are over 10,000 pages (on CD only) , for the 2002-2004 300M's / Intrepids and Concorde vehicles - FREE on your Edmund's post.
I am very interested in these as I am starting to need more in-depth instruction on repairs for my 2002 300M. Could you please send me these? Thanks so very much!
#34 of 36 Re: 300M Overheating mystery [littleearl]
May 20, 2013 (4:41 pm)
Due to forum abusers (who will not even refund me any postage) , the only
way to get the CD , is to send $6 to my Paypal address : bhthwhyahoo.ca - so that I can pay the postage (while the CD's contents are still FREE). If you send $6 , be sure to also send me an email at the same email adress , so that I will send the disk to the address you want it to be sent to. The manuals are authentic Chrysler (not altered or reprinted etc. manuals). Worth alot more than $6. I have sent about 60 of these in the last 2 years. It's a no-brainer .
#35 of 36 1999 chrysler 300
Jul 22, 2013 (9:34 am)
I recently changed the radiator thermostat fan fan relay switch belt and the engine isn't getting hot and the internal cage is only going up to half mark but the water/antifreeze in the resevior is bubbling or should say boiling then steaming out.. Any ideas??
#36 of 36 Re: 1999 chrysler 300 [bookiett]
Jul 23, 2013 (2:42 am)
If your engine temperatures are normal , then you can assume the waterpump is OK , but you may have put the thermostat in backwards / causing the overflow reservoir to become a radiator. It is possible , that when you change a thermostat and follow how the thermostat is already installed (at which time you are also changing the thermostat because ? the engine is overheating?) , you will have repeated installing the thermostat incorrectly - if you match the direction that the thermostat is placed. Any time you change a thermostat you should be checking that the closed position is towards the engine - while the spring/open position is towards the radiator.
In some cases boiling of the fluids indicates that the waterpump is not functioning , but your interior temperature gauge should show a maximum reading as well. Whenever there are conflicting symptoms or indications , it would be best to recheck the positioning of the thermostat in the housing. Boiling fluid in the reservoir indicates that the heated fluid has no heat outlet (radiator) , so the fluid keeps heating up until it boils. You should also be replacing the overflow reservoir cap because it is vented (16lbs) , so if that cap's rubber seal or pressure spring is not working properly , you have no blow off (which , since it is boiling , should already be occurring).
If nothing really makes sense , you should check that you are using a full fill of the correct coolant/antifreeze. With the all aluminum 3.5L engine , the service manual strongly requires that the "yellow" (not green) coolant is used at all times and not mixed (ever , unless it is an emergency). Aluminum engines , or even engines that only have aluminum heads , must use "ethylene glycol coolant " - as opposed to "polypropylene glycol coolant (which is green etc. for cast iron and steel engines only). Mixing these 2 is not acceptable according to the service manual for the 300M , and even if you do , you MUST flush and refill ASAP. Aluminum requires special protection , while all of the engine's other components and calibrations are set in accordance with ethylene glycol (IE : thermostat / gauge / radiator / hoses / heater etc).
The last factor is the coolant mixture. I never buy 50/50 mix coolant , because I don't buy water , and those premixed containers are for immediate topups only. When you buy 100% coolant , you mix equal amounts of water in another container and fill from that (50/50). From there , you check the interior temperature gauge and adjust accordingly : if too hot , add coolant , if too cool , add water. Try to add 8 ounces at a time until the gauge balances just under half way. This can be a bit tricky too , when you don't really know if you have a 50/50 mix to work with. I always start by using the rule of thumb that "water" has a much lower boiling point than any coolant. From there , I know that the fluid will boil if there is too much water , or NO coolant at all - BUT , it is possible for coolant to boil as well. If you were to fill your vehicle with coolant only , once the coolant reaches it's higher than water boiling point , it will boil to where it will cool alot slower (take more time) than water. It can be a bit confusing to determine which way to go when you don't know about the actual fill. You can do so though , if you know that you can't run any engine strictly on water , as it will eventually overheat profusely. So... you could have either one of the 2 - too much coolant , or too much water.