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Hyundai Sonata 6 cylinders or 4?

73 messages,  Last post on Jul 27, 2009 at 4:56 AM

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What is this discussion about? Hyundai Sonata, Engine, Sedan


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#34 of 73
Re: sonata 4 cyl. with manual tranny [vmokhutov] by ljacks
Dec 27, 2006 (9:26 am)
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Replying to: vmokhutov (Oct 14, 2006 5:24 pm)

I'm 55 years old and have owned nothing but manual transmissions since I started driving. In all of the cars I've owned I've never had to replace a clutch and some of my cars have had 100,000 miles plus. I never had to replace a clutch until my 2003 Sonata. It first went at 28,000 miles and dealership said "Too bad, not covered" so almost $1800 later new hyundai clutch. That clutch lasted approx 14,000 miles. Dealer said too bad and held hand out for what he thought was going to be another $1800 of my hard earned money. Had my car towed to reputable transmission shop in the area demanded a non-hyundai clutch be installed, cost $750. NEVER EVER buy a manual transmission from hyundai. BTW other than clutch prob the car is fantastic with absolutely no other problems encountered
#35 of 73
Re: sonata 4 cyl. with manual tranny [vmokhutov] by mossman11
Jan 02, 2007 (9:35 am)
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Replying to: vmokhutov (Oct 14, 2006 5:24 pm)

My first Sonata was a '95 with 2.0 litre 4 cyl and 5-speed manual, a similar powertrain to the 01-06 Elantra. I put 130,000 miles on that car, with a new clutch at 97,000. I paid $450 for the clutch, installed in Vermont (the clutch went on a camping trip near Rutland). That car was virtually trouble free, and I awaited the '06 5-speed as I liked the styling on the new car.
 
I ended up with the 4-cylinder AT because I felt the clutch on the 06 was too heavy, and didn't like the feel of the manual with the 06 seat (too soft). If you do get the 5-speed, they have a package now with 17" wheels, firmer power seat and moonroof all for an MSRP of $19,600...the same MSRP of my 06 automatic. Just make sure you test drive the car fully. And plan on winter tires if you live in the snow belt, as the 17's are useless in winter. The alternative is the base 5-speed with 16" wheels and all- season tires. The ride is better, and these tires are OK in winter. Again, test drive fully as this seat is not power.
#36 of 73
Re: Which one? [] by flc2006
Jan 03, 2007 (10:53 pm)
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Replying to: unknown (Oct 04, 2006 11:28 am)

I prefer the v6 because of the smoothness and quietness than 4 cylinders are kinda buzzy, my car runs as smooth as a car costing twice as much, i had a 4 cylinder which used about the same fuel consumption as my current V6, in real world driving terms you only loose about 2 mpg which is not noticeable.
#37 of 73
Re: Which one? [flc2006] by cableguy06
Jan 04, 2007 (1:20 pm)
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Replying to: flc2006 (Jan 03, 2007 10:53 pm)

If you are looking for mileage, get a I4. If you want power, get a V6. They are both great engines and I did not find the I4 to be "buzzy" at all...actually very peppy.
 
I bought an 07 V6 and it's smooth with a ton of power! Getting combined mileage around 25
#38 of 73
Re: Which one? [cableguy06] by w9cw
Jan 04, 2007 (3:11 pm)
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Replying to: cableguy06 (Jan 04, 2007 1:20 pm)

If you're going to only keep the car a few years - say less than the 10 year powertrain warranty period - I would say go for the Lambda V6. But, if you intend to keep the car longer, I would strongly suggest you consider the Theta Inline 4 cylinder.
 
When maintenance is required, it will cost much more on the V6, as any transverse V6 is simply much harder to work on than a transverse Inline 4. I will use a non-Hyundai situation as an example. Our 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan ES 3.3L V6 with 160K miles recently developed a head gasket leak. The quote for repair was $2,500. I personally completed the repair with all OEM parts, and some machine shop work on the heads, for a total cost of less than $250. How many hours did I spending doing this - too many to count - and, not including the scratches and bloody knuckles! Plus, this was on a pushrod V6, one of the easier transverse V6 engine installations to work on. Transverse V6's, especially the DOHC variety on the Sonata, are not known for their labor-friendliness. Try changing the rear plugs on a transverse V6, and you will understand what I mean.
 
If you trade cars often, buy the V6. But, if you keep your car a long time, seriously consider the Inline 4. For me personally, I love the Lambda V6's smoothness and power, but I won't buy one. Rather, I will go with the Inline 4. No more transverse V6 engines for me . . .
#39 of 73
'07 Optima Four by csandste
Jan 06, 2007 (8:37 pm)
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Just bought it and have it at the dealers getting leather.
 
I find the four to be better than the Optima six, which is the last gen. Sonata 2.7 engine. Plus you get a five speed rather than four speed transmission.
 
If I was going with a V-6 I definitely would have taken the Sonata.
 
The Edmunds maintenance page has a 105,000 mile change for the timing belt. I'm a bit confused about the 60K change and the discussion about timing chains on this engine.
 
BTW-- The Hyundai/Kia four seems a lot smoother than the Chrysler version of the same (almost) engine. To me it also seems smoother than the 2.7 liter V-6 but not the new, improved Sonata model.
#40 of 73
Re: '07 Optima Four [csandste] by ray_h1
Jan 06, 2007 (9:47 pm)
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Replying to: csandste (Jan 06, 2007 8:37 pm)

)) "...the Optima six, which is the last gen. Sonata 2.7 engine. ... The Edmunds maintenance page has a 105,000 mile change for the timing belt. I'm a bit confused about the 60K change and the discussion about timing chains on this engine." ((
 
True of the lower end, only. The heads (where kickapoo joy juice is converted to git-up-'n-go) have been completely revised and now include CVVT technology - good for an additional 15 hp. (185 vs. 170 - that's the motor the previous generation Sonata really needed all along for its V6 option, along with the 5-sp automatic. [sigh]). As to the discussion about "chains on this engine", which engine? If you're referring to the KIA's 2.7L mu V6 with CVVT heads, it still uses a timing belt from the crankshaft up to the heads just as Hyundai's prior generation 2.7L delta V6 did. And, being a belt, it must be replaced periodically since these motors are "interference"* designs. (The latest generation Hyundai 3.3L and 3.8L lambda V6 engines use a roller-link chain from the crankshaft up to the heads.)
 
*"interference" designates that the pistons will occupy the same space as open valves - but hopefully not simultaneously. All bets are off, though, if the timing belt breaks. (An engine is a terrible thing to waste...)
#41 of 73
Re: '07 Optima Four [ray_h1] by micro99
Jan 07, 2007 (8:09 am)
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Replying to: ray_h1 (Jan 06, 2007 9:47 pm)

Just wondering if you have read anything, or heard anything, about the real- world `fuel economy ` difference between the new 2.7 mu v6 and its predecessor, the 2.7 delta v6 ? I find it very difficult to get any real world numbers for the newer mu engine ( except for a very few, statistically insignificant, posters ) who claim this engine really guzzles the fuel, with economy nowwhere near EPA numbers! Can you offer any perspective or insight ? Thanks .
#42 of 73
Re: '07 Optima Four [micro99] by hotrod54
Jan 07, 2007 (9:26 am)
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Replying to: micro99 (Jan 07, 2007 8:09 am)

It is widely known that epa numbers are at best, quite flawed...hence for 08 model year new formulas will be in place. Depending on car type, engine type etc., the new epa ratings {which will be more "real world"} will be 8 to 30 percent less than the current joke ratings. If people would read the sticker on epa ratings, you will notice that these are just estimates and will not and do not reflect what you will achieve. The real original purpose was to be a crude comparison between cars.
#43 of 73
Re: '07 Optima Four [micro99] by ray_h1
Jan 07, 2007 (3:02 pm)
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Replying to: micro99 (Jan 07, 2007 8:09 am)

hotrod54's points above are well taken, but I also believe a few people reporting disappointing fuel economy are the victims of Hyundai's tight engines that take a good bit longer to finalize run-in and loosen up than they're used to dealing with. My '03 Sonata's (2.7L delta V6) fuel economy was abysmal - rated 19/27 and the best I could do (grampa driving, no less) was 17/25, initially. By 5,000 miles it had "improved" to 20/26. Now at 24,000 miles, I typically see 23/30+ (the latter at 75-80 mph - now grampa moves his bloody arse on the open road!). Unless Hyundai's had a major change in new milled engine part clearances, the company's still recommending a 2K-4K engine operating rpm range and 55 mph top vehicle speed during their suggested 1,200 mile run-in. Another part of the "problem" is that modern motor oils (even conventional mineral oils) are blended with much improved anti-wear additives (often soluble molybdenum compounds and pricey borate esters these days) that prolong initial run-in but compensate with lower wear rates once run-in is completed. Hopefully that translates to increased engine life.

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