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Wagons Chrysler PT Cruiser Chrysler PT Cruiser Maintenance & Repair PT Cruiser Electrical/Lighting Problems
254 messages, Last post on Nov 05, 2009 at 9:34 AM
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Replying to: geek5 (Mar 30, 2009 12:29 pm) another mentions a fusible link to the alternator. I can just see the alternator. but i'll want a confirmation before i pull the motor out to look closer.
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Replying to: geek5 (Apr 02, 2009 6:28 am) 30 Amp fuse was making/breaking contact. It looked good visually and continuity check at one point was good but it was blown, ever so slightly. Suggestion for haunting syndrome of electrical problems: don't check the fuses, REPLACE THEM! |
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Replying to: chdabren (Nov 26, 2007 6:09 pm) |
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Ok so my running lights and interior dash light all went out the same night. They didn't flicker, there was no pop, snap nor crakle; they worked when I parked the car at a resturant and the after eating I came out to a dark car. The blinders work, the head lights work and the hazard lights work, but the front and rear running lights won't turn on. I had teh fusses check, i changed the bulbs and i even bought a brand new multi purpose switch and changed it out, but the freaking lights still won't turn on. And now the freaking brake lights are on and won't turn off. Would anyone happen to now what I can do without having to go through the dealer and spending a crap load amount of money. Oh also that new switch I bought is back in the box and if anyone wants to buy it let me know. I paid $37 for it and will sell it for $25; it cam straight from the dealer.  
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I have a 2006 PT CONV 2.4T, Stage 1, which was purchased new in April 2007, 22,000 miles on it. 3 weeks ago the battery light would intermittently come on, I would turn off the engine and restart and the light would stay off. It has progressed to the point that it now comes on after starting when the brake is pressed. It dosen't come on if I turn on the engine and it sits at idle in the drive. Any ideas? The OEM battery was replaced last September, battery connections to the OEM cables replaced at the same time. Is there a way to get the diagnostic code, and if so how?
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Replying to: royj47 (Jun 01, 2009 11:18 am) When some problems are found, the computer lights up the "engine light;" others are ignored until a mechanic asks for them. The "engine light" stays on when a serious emissions or engine problem is found, until the code is erased. Chrysler vehicles have a "limp in" mode which reverts to a pre-programmed "guessing map" for timing, fuel delivery, etc. when a critical sensor fails. Those who have been in other cars when their oxygen sensor failed can feel grateful for this feature, though it can be confusing - for example, in some (maybe all) models, the automatic transmission is limited to second gear! The engine light also turns itself on for two seconds every time the car is started so you will know the bulb still works. The "engine light" may shut itself off if there are no problems for three consecutive trips, or three consecutives engine misfire or fuel system tests with no problems. To get the codes, move the key from Run to Off to Run to Off to Run within five seconds. It does not always work the first time. (Run is JUST before Start). The code will show up in the odometer - thank your lucky stars for this, since the codes used to get blinked on the engine light. Alan Borgolotto noted that “if you do it too quickly it doesnt work (got to wait to see the odometer light up” and that if you have no codes, the odometer will say “done.” Another method which may in most cars just test the instrument panel is to put the key into the ignition, push down the odometer reset button, then turn the key to RUN with your finger on the button - and then release the button. The odometer will go through 1111111 through 999999, then display the car's serial number and some other, irrelevant information, then show the error codes starting with P. Note that this method may not work. It's easier but not necessarily better. You can also get the codes using an OBDC III scan tool. That's the best way to do it, but not everyone wants to spend the cash on these tools. No matter which method you use, some codes will not appear - codes specific to Chrysler such as individual transmission malfunction codes. Dealers and some specialty shops can get these using a terribly expensive scan tool. Information source: http://www.mypage.onemain.com/gh1006517/ptcruiser/diagnostics.htm (may no longer be up) The codes and what they meanNot all codes are relevant to the PT Cruiser! Codes may start with a "P" in your odometer. Code What it means 30 Sensor heater relay problem 36 Sensor heater relay problem 106 MAP sensor voltage out of range detected at startup 107 MAP sensor voltage too low 108 MAP sensor voltage too high 112 Intake air temperature sensor voltage low 113 Intake air (charge) temperature sensor voltage high 116 Coolant temparature sensor reading doesn't make sense 117 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage low 118 Engine coolant temperature sensor voltage high 121 Throttle position sensor and MAP sensor disagree with each other 122 Throttle position sensor voltage low 123 Throttle position sensor voltage high 125 Taking too long to reach proper operating temparature and switch to energy-efficient mode 129 Bad barometric pressure sensor (thanks, John King) 130 Sensor heater relay problem 131 Oxygen sensor seems to be shorted out or broken 147 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly) 151 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to ground? 152 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to active 12V? 153 Oxygen sensor response too slow 154 Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition - may need replacement 155 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly) 157 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to ground? 158 Oxygen sensor voltage problem - short circuit to active 12V? 159 Oxygen sensor response too slow 160 Oxygen sensor does not show either a rich or lean condition - may need replacement 161 Oxygen sensor heater element not working properly (this device helps to reduce emissions more quickly) 171 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction). 172 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction). 174 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too lean (too much fuel is being added as a correction). 175 The oxygen sensor is saying that the system air/fuel mix is far too rich (too much air is being added as a correction). 176 Flex fuel sensor can't be seen 178 Flex fuel sensor problem 179 Flex fuel sensor problem 182 Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem 183 Compressed natural gas temperature sensor problem 201 Injector #1 control circuit problem (open or shorted) 202 Injector #2 control circuit problem (open or shorted) 203 Injector #3 control circuit problem (open or shorted) 204 Injector #4 control circuit problem (open or shorted) 300 Misfire detected in multiple cylinders. 301 Misfire detected in cylinder #1. 302 Misfire detected in cylinder #2. 303 Misfire detected in cylinder #3. 304 Misfire detected in cylinder #4. 320 Crankshaft position sensor reference signal cannot be found while the engine is cranking. 325 Knock sensor (#1) signal is wrong. 330 Knock sensor (#2) signal is wrong. 340 No camshaft signal being received by the computer 350 A coil is drawing too much current. 351 Coil #1 is not reaching peak current at the right time 352 Coil #2 is not reaching peak current at the right time 353 Coil #3 is not reaching peak current at the right time 354 Coil #4 is not reaching peak current at the right time 401 A required change in air/fuel mixture was not detected during diagnostic test. 403 An problem was detected in the EGR solenoid control circuit. 404 The EGR sensor's reported position makes no sense 405 EGR position sensor voltage wrong. 406 EGR position sensor voltage wrong. 412 The secondary air solenoid control circuit seems bad (this is used for the aspirator). 420 The catalyst seems inefficient (#1). 432 The catalyst seems inefficient (#2). 441 Evaporative purge flow system not working properly 442 A leak has been detected in the evaporative system! 443 Evaporative purge flow system solenoid not working |
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Replying to: jaball0 (Jul 15, 2008 12:05 pm)
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Replying to: dea2221 (Jun 06, 2009 6:32 pm) Oh quick question for you; I keep hearing that there are two fuse boxes in my car but can't find the other one for anything. I know of the one under the hood, but where's the second one? Would you happen to know?
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Our '03' Cruiser battery dies. We experienced this a month ago, and I recharged batt. Then it happened again a week later, so I decided that the original batt must be giving up the ghost. Got new one at WalMart, and no problems for a month, then yesterday morning - dead batt -. Put the charger on for an hour, then started car and ran for about 5 minutes. After shutting off engine, I removed neg (-) terminal and looked for power drain by using milliAmp reading from neg (-) post and the now disconnected neg (-) cable. Initially I was in the 70 milliamp draw, but that dropped to about 9 milliAmp after about 3 or 4 minutes (I assume computers shutting off for the delay). So I went to bed happy that there was no batt drain. Today after no use all day, I went out to it this afternoon and it is totally dead again. To note, our weather has been in the 100's for a few days now. We also have noticed for a few weeks that the AIRBAG light stays on during engine running time. we have noticed a couple of times the FOG lamp is lit, but that has only been a couple of times in the last 6 months.
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Replying to: tmstech (Jul 17, 2009 5:06 pm) just LAST WEEK i finally got my problems fixed after i replaced the battery, ignition module, two starters and the computer. oh, and several tows home from Philly. the battery cables were bad - specifically the positive cable. it looked good and i had plenty of power for lights - but not enough to the starter. so far so good - AND it was under $100 for the cables - almost $200 for the diagnostics and the labor - BUT it's fixed - knock on wood!!! GOOD LUCK! |
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