Last post on Sep 08, 2013 at 5:35 PM
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#104 of 113 Difference between American and German PT Cruiser
May 09, 2013 (3:17 am)
I have a 2006 PT Cruiser 2.4L with the 5 speed transmission. At 47,000 miles the transmission needs to be replaced (already replaced at 22,000). I am stationed in Germany and a new transmission from the dealer costs about $4,000. I found a German spec PT Cruiser at a salvage lot that is the same year but a 2.2L engine. What are the chances that the transmission from the German Spec car will fit in my Cruiser? Please help if this doesn't work we are going to have to junk the car because it's to expensive to fix.
#105 of 113 manual transmission problems 2008 PT Cruiser
Jun 06, 2013 (3:42 pm)
Recently got a PT Cruiser 2008 with 93,000 on it. Everything seems great but recently we noticed the manual transmission is a little tough to shift into 1rst and 2nd gear. Feels like the gears are binding sort of. You can push it in but it seems tight and sort of double pops into gear. Its kind of like it takes a little muscle to shift into 1rst or 2nd. The other gears seems a little easier. Reverse not any noticeable problem. Anybody deal with this before?
#106 of 113 Re: 2001 PT Limited - handed down from Grandma [maryv]
Jun 15, 2013 (8:16 pm)
I had a 2006 Dodge Caravan with the same engine. Timing belt replacement was recommended at 90k miles in the owner's manual. What the dealer told you about the timing belt sounds fishy. Good luck.
#107 of 113 Re: manual transmission problems 2008 PT Cruiser [shenning1]
Jul 05, 2013 (10:16 am)
I have the same exact problem. Lucky for me my best friend is a mechanical Engineer and takes automotive challenges very seriously. He came over with his code reader and laptop and was able to determine that I am having transmission problems. It all started with a soft whine type noise that I thought was just a wheel bearing I could get to later. It worsened so I took the car last July 12 to Jiffy lube for new ATF+4. I drove just under 7,000 miles since last July and then the check engine light came on and the car went into safe mode not allowing me to take it over 2400rmp. When the car gets warm it becomes extememly difficult to shift it into gear. I had very little trouble during the cold Oregon Winter. My friend reset the trouble code and the check engine light went off as did the safe mode. So I can drive the car normally but again when it gets hot I have difficulty shifting it into gear. It is a 5 speed manual trans. I will be taking the car to his house tomorrow for more comprehensive diagnostic work. Hopefully It's something outside the transmission that can be replaced like a clutch master/slave cylinder kit. my email is little nich at yahoo dot com. all without spaces. Hit me up. Maybe we can get to the bottom of this problem.
#108 of 113 P0700, P0732 and P0733 Codes
Sep 02, 2013 (8:50 am)
My vehicle goes to Limp Mode.. I get these codes. P0700, P0732 and P0733 Codes
Already replaced Speed Sensors in and out.
Metal filing/material was on Speed Sensor. 1/8 of teaspoon or less.
Do you have any next recommendations if solenoid should be replaced. Or are we thinking more on overdrive clutch.. Not sure how to test that.. Fluid is clean, but filter has not been checked. Now 99,000 Miles on car. Bought from dealer at 65,000 Miles.
Generally seems to drive fairly well at 35-38 Miles per hour. Once I speed up beyond that, it goes into limp mode.
#109 of 113 P0601, P0700, and P0740 codes
Sep 07, 2013 (11:43 am)
So here's the story. About a year ago I was out with a friend and his GF in his PT. We were on our way back from getting some food and for some reason he decided to floor it right before we went over a railroad crossing. Took the hit kinda hard but not quite Dukes of Hazard levels. Engine died. It started back up fine but my friend said the car was making a noise. I couldn't hear it, and the car was driving fine otherwise. Once we got back I could hear the sound. I can only classify it as a sort of rough whine, but it's not really high pitched. The car was already giving the CEL and P0601 codes well before this.
He continued to drive the car with it making this noise up until this past July when he lent it to me, with the idea being I'd probably buy it assuming it wasn't a major problem. He went and got the oil changed and tried to get the registration and inspection up to date, but the inspection failed due to the CEL. I took it to Cottman Transmission and they said they cannot identify the issue, they'd have to pull the tranny off and inspect it. $550 just for that, which would get included in repair costs depending on what they found. They said the transmission fluid was fine and not burnt, etc. and only mentioned that I had minor oil and tranny fluid leaks. The car shifts smoothly still and has plenty of "go," it's not in limp mode, but it does make extra noise if it has to work hard above 3.5K rpm, so far only if I have the AC on and getting onto the freeway or the cruise control is trying to get back up to the set speed. More recently I've noticed a rhythmic tapping when standing still at idle, and it can become more of a light knocking during deceleration from highway speeds and it goes away once speed gets below 40mph.
I was thinking of biting the bullet and paying Cottman to take the tranny off an identify the issue, hoping it will be simple, but it seems that's unlikely. Not only that, but it appears I can buy a tested good used replacement tranny for under $1K shipped, I am guessing getting the work done by Cottman would cost much more than that, depending on the issue. Of course I will still have to pay someone labor to install the new used tranny and fill the fluids and such.
So I guess my question is, does it seem worth it to those of you who have significant history with PTs? Should I just pass this up, or is it worth getting fixed? It's an otherwise nice car with only the usual wear on the outside, it has leather seats, etc. all the interior electronics are in good working condition, etc, it's just the transmission that is a problem. I'd hate to see the car get junked or sold for parts, etc. oddly.
#110 of 113 Re: P0601, P0700, and P0740 codes [texas_red]
Sep 07, 2013 (1:26 pm)
If you like the car and gas mileage + the engine is running well along with below 125,000 miles, then it would probably be worth it. It is always important to change the tranny filters on these vehicles.. they can also give you the P700 and tranny codes because of reduced fluid pressure.
#111 of 113 Re: P0601, P0700, and P0740 codes [fixitchip]
Sep 08, 2013 (3:26 pm)
Yeah, I like the car, the mileage is good enough. It's at 119K miles right now. The place I was looking at that sold used trannies wanted a bit under $600 for a unit with ~170K miles on it.
#112 of 113 Re: P0601, P0700, and P0740 codes [texas_red]
Sep 08, 2013 (5:14 pm)
A transmission with 170k is to risky, without knowing what history that transmission has. Of course if they have checked the transmission, replaced some worn parts, and offer some sort of warranty, that would be helpful, but I'd guess they'd charge more..
#113 of 113 Re: P0601, P0700, and P0740 codes [fixitchip]
Sep 08, 2013 (5:35 pm)
Well, the site I have looked at so far is autopartsfair.com (http://www.autopartsfair.com/chrysler-used_transmissions/pt_cruiser-2002-catalo- g.html?fit_notes=9716867599da51db0efa638ce5418263&seq_num=4) and they mention a 6 months to 2 years warranty on the transmissions. I haven't looked too far into it so there may be more to the whole thing. The pricing they have on different transmissions seems to be based mainly on where they'd be shipping it from.
In the end I just want to go a route that isn't super expensive, but will reliably and definitively fix the problem. I don't want to take it to a shop, put in $500+ to have them tear it apart and look at it, then give me a $1.5K+ laundry list if just buying a whole new working tranny and paying labor to install it would be cheaper.