Last post on Nov 01, 2013 at 7:52 PM
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Chrysler Sebring, Convertible, Sedan
#129 of 157 99' Sebring Convertible, unraveling seams and...
Aug 09, 2011 (2:03 pm)
I have a 99' Sebring Convertible(Great shape, only 50,000 miles on it-bought it 3 yrs ago with only 21,000 miles!) with the camel colored vinyl top, it's not garaged so it has been hit by the elements for the past 3 yrs. The seams on the side close to the top of the side windows is unraveling on both sides, I dont have leakage problems just noise on the side between the front passenger and driver side windows that come in contact with the soft top. Also my rear window has separated from the convertible top(outside only-no leaks that I am aware off). Any special adhesive I should use to bond it back together? And the seams, should I attempt to sew it back together myself? If anyone has had these problems, how did you come about fixing it and what were the costs? I know a brand new convertible kit is about $300-$500...is it worth buying a new one...? Not sure if I'm keeping the car or selling it to buy a new vehicle. I'd hate not getting the value's worth because of these issues =/
#130 of 157 How to re-attach ragtop to bottom of rear window
Sep 24, 2011 (11:18 am)
Any success stories on re-attaching the rag top to the rear window?
The body shop said not a chance and quoted me $1200.00 for a complete new top?
My solution is:
JB Weld (glue) the rag top to the window again.
That would take some trim part removal to free the rag top from the car.
Do a visual where the ragtop was attached window.
Create an Inside and Outside, "Border One" with Duct Tape : Masking off the area on the rear glass that I will apply glue too. That should keep excessive glue from getting on the glass.
Create an Inside and Outside, "Duct Tape Fastner" : Create a "large Bandage", Over lap 4 or 5 strips of duct tape to create a really wide "duct tape fastner"
Attach the duct tape fastner to the ragtops outside edge. Only attaching half the width of the "duct tape fastner" to the edge. The remaining half should is used to secure the ragtop back to the rear window.
Apply the glue to the rear window area, apply glue only to the area masked off by Border One.
Then stretch the rag top back to the glue on the bottom of the rear window.
Complete the outside process by working the ragtop edge into the glue on the window; using the "duct tape fastner" to hold the ragtop in place until the glue cures.
Repeat the process for the inside of the ragtop.
Please reply with insight into:
Type of adhesive or fastners you would use to achieve a fix.
Removing trim work around the back of the car where top meets the car.
And any other constructive thought you may have.
Thank-you in advance for your time and any replies;
#131 of 157 Sebring Convertible leaks in rear window and where it meets the windshield
Sep 28, 2011 (2:17 am)
I have a 2001 Sebring Limited Convertible that has a leaking problem at the rear window and where it meets the windshield. I am not sure what is causing this problem because the car was garage kept until I bought it 8 months ago. The top is in pristine condition and not sure why it is leaking. We had 5" or rain one week and I found about a gallon of water where the convertible top folds into, I also had water run in from the corners in the front where it connects with the windshield. I really dont like getting wet when I drive. I need to know if it is because the top isnt securing tight to the windshield. If that is the problem how do I adjust the hooks to make it seal better in the front? Also what could be the culprit of it at the back window?
Any answers will help I just need to know because this car is in Mint condition with 65k on the mileage.
#132 of 157 Re: Sebring Convertible leaks in rear window and where it meets the windshield [93buicklesabre]
Sep 29, 2011 (2:16 pm)
Keep searching the forum. There are some insights into the drain system for the top. There are drain holes in the frame that clog according to some other postings.
Good Luck on your repair; post your resolution when you have one.
I'm still soliciting ideas for a fix on my problem at the moment.
#133 of 157 Set Screws in Convertible Top Latch
Oct 07, 2011 (10:58 am)
I have two questions which any assistance would be much appreciated - regarding my 2001 Sebring LXi Convertible
1) Can someone tell me what size set-screws go in the convertible top latches to hold the "J" hooks in place? I've called 2 Chrysler parts departments and they only sell the complete latch assemblies, where my latches just have the treaded holes for the set screws, but the screws themselves are missing - so my "J" hooks (which attach to the windshield header) rotate with them.
2) My top folds down easily with a touch of the button, but it can sometimes be difficult to raise back up - the motor seems strong, I suspect it might be the switch - could I be on the right track with that assumption?
Jim in Maynard, MA
#135 of 157 convertible top edging coming apart
Oct 28, 2011 (11:07 am)
I have a '96 Sebring convertible and the top is fine, its just the edging around the edges of the windows that is coming apart and pulling away from the main body of the top? Does anyone have any idea?
#136 of 157 Re: 2000 Sebring Top [bubyva]
Oct 28, 2011 (12:51 pm)
Mine did the same thing so I thought I would replace the top switch - however when I pulled off the switch panel (bezel) I found what the problem was - the plastic clips that hold the switch in place (to the bezel) had broken and was not holding the switch in place properly when pushing it forward to close. As soon as I replaced the bezel the problem was solved. Takes less than 5 minutes and you can do it yourself. Hopefully that's all it is in your case too.
#137 of 157 2006 Sebring Limited Convertible
Nov 15, 2011 (8:24 am)
1. 75,000 miles and convertible fails. Dealership: $1,800 to repair. Need to replace entire unit. Bundled part alone is $1,200. Out of warranty. Serviced vehicle every 3,000 miles. No reason but shabby car. Bought car for convertible. Does not function. Piece of junk.
2. Since 50,000 miles, dashboard/cluster lights do not work but for occasional flicker. Drive in the dark of all mph, fuel levels, etc. at night. Use flashlight. Dealership: $700 to repair. Bundled part problem again. Not fuse. Not electrical. Failure. Driving in trash can.
No remedy but lawsuit which is absurdly expensive and time consuming. Don't buy American ever. I bought this vehicle over the Solaria solely due to patriotism. Never ever again buy American.
#138 of 157 Re: 2006 Sebring Limited Convertible [0926rsiv]
Nov 15, 2011 (1:11 pm)
I can understand your frustration and even perhaps your need to vent, however a car is a machine and machines do break down whether they are domestics or imported vehicles. When you say "convertible fails" do you mean that the top is not working? If that is the case "servicing" your car every 3,000 miles probably has nothing to do with that- especially if by servicing you are speaking on engine oil changes. As far as imports fairing better - my wife serviced her Luxury Import every 3,000 miles and that didn't prevent her expensive import's engine dying from sludge not once but twice. I only mention that as evidence that problems arise with all automobiles no matter where they are made. As far as Sebrings go - I love mine and will continue to buy "American" cars if I so desire. In fact my last convertible was a Saab 9-3 and I actually prefer my Sebring over my Saab. The Saab was a fine car, but the Sebring is more enjoyable to drive and far more comfortable for me. Again I am truly sorry you've experienced these problems with your Sebring perhaps you could post more details about what the problem is.