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Sedans Pontiac Bonneville Pontiac Bonneville Starting/Stallling/Ignition Problems
162 messages, Last post on Nov 16, 2009 at 6:09 PM
You are in the Pontiac Bonneville Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: checkingitout (May 27, 2009 5:44 pm) I did read about someone else with a problem in the age Bonneville. But first be aware that 94 and 95 H-bodies have a higher than usual failure rate of computers with odd symptoms from that. It might be wise to check into replacing the computer itself with an aftermarket rebuild or replacement. I don't believe they are that expensive. But I just read the other day about someone who bumped their cable to the computer while trying to move and jiggle things at sensors looking for just your kind of problem. I assume the computer is under the air intake box like my 98... Anyhow when he bumped the bundle the car stalled immediately. And it was repeatable. I believe he found one particular female connector that was loose and could move away from contacting the plug prong. |
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My 96 Bonneville is having problems with the security light staying on. My wife read online it's due to bad wiring near the ignition cylinder that causes the car not to reconize the coded key. I found a way to bypass this on another forum but since I'm not very good with electronics I bought the modual prebuilt on a site. All i neeed to do was find the connecter under the dash near the steering colum and plug it. Only problem is I can't find the connector under the dash to bypass the security system. The intructions and other people I've talked to say it should be right in front of me when I take off the kick pannel under the steering colum. I don't want to mess around to much looking for it and accidently pull a wire out by mistake. Does anyone have any thoughs on where to look? Thanks
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| i have an '01 bonnie that ran out of gas, i re fueled to 1/4 tank, and now i have no spark. replaced the pcm and still no spark. I was told that the cam/crankshaft position sensors were good. the ignition control module under the coils passed the test OK. I'm now at a loss as to where to look next. there were no problems prior to running out of gas. power everything still works. Battery is good w/ good connections and ground. any suggestions??? | |
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Replying to: winter_eric (Jun 28, 2009 3:58 pm) How does the car run? If the car starts, you do not have a VATS problem. Since you didn't say anything about the car not cranking, I assume it runs okay. The VATS system prevents the car from cranking and the injectors from injecting fuel. It turns the security light on flashing for 3 minutes, then it's ready to read the resistance from the key chip again for the driver to try to start once more. But until then no cranking. If your car has a theft & tampering system, that may be your problem. I have not had experience with the _security_ system portion of that light which involves theft prevention of the car by checking doors, trunk, etc. I have seen a few posts where prople suggest disconnecting the wire to the sensor on the trunk latch. They claim it fails and causes a security llight for the car theft/tampering portion. |
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i have a 1994 bonneville 3800 engine it will start and then shut down after running about 5 seconds ,ive changed the computer and chip key too match and also the ignition moduale,(and they all came from a running 1994 bonneville with a 3800 engine) checked all the fuses and relays,i and its getting fuel im at my whits end!!! cant get no help form the dealerships all they want is money and no advice i just dont know what too check next!! |
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1988 Bonneville LE set up for a year or two with occasional start and drive brought car ran good for two days started sputtering, fluttering and jerking Changed plugs (split fires pre gap) and wires air filter OK, replaced brittle vac line car ran good next day sputtering Changed fuel filter let idle for 20 or so minutes to check for leaks cut it off, re started, drove around block, put it in reverse to park, it cut off crank but no start Let engine cool, re checked my work, plugs/wires tight, filter (correct flow to engine) force idle until it held, cat converter got glowing hot pulled ECM code 44, O2 sensor/rich detected crank no start replaced plugs with AC/Delco standard w/spec. gap of 0.60 crank, start but stall unless I force idle (smell gas but no leaks) pull pcv check for rattle, clean and put back pull O2 sensor clean off, put back pull EGR clean out, wire brush off put back disconnected neg terminal reset and repulled codes just a 12, diagnostic mode crank start and will hold idle after "babying" gas pedal (tach at 1200) cat converter no glow (smell gas but no leaks) put in drive, reverse will stall out unless I brake, accelerate, and put in gear still stall when I try to drive. would like to idle up to get to shop to real mechanic but cant find Idle adj screw. Haynes manual shows nothing but says I have 1989 - 1991 3800 eng. |
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I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, new air filter, new fuel filter checked all of the fuses, changed the oil in this car. Sometimes when I start it takes several seconds for the engine to turn over and start the car. When I apply the accelerator it fires right up. I have also been using high octane fuel and a fuel additive. I have also used Lucas Injector Cleaner. The vehicle does get better fuel mileage even gotten 450 for an 18 gallon tank half highway. Also the engine will sometimes stop running if left to idle for about 10 minutes. Once while the hood was open I noticed a slight puff of air/steam come near the water pump and intake. Any suggestions? PGFALCON
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Replying to: pgfalcon (Nov 14, 2009 9:40 pm)
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Nov 15, 2009 3:57 am) |
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Replying to: pgfalcon (Nov 14, 2009 9:40 pm) Try turning the key to ON for 3 seconds, then OFF and back to ON. Repeat for 3 times total. Then turn the key to START. If the car seems to start faster, it may be losing pressure in the fuel line, usually a fuel pump problem. If the plugs and wires aren't OEM iridium for plugs and OEM equivalent for the wires, I'd work on those. The stalling could be a fuel pump. I recommend NOT using premium fuel. The car was designed to run on 87. The higher octane leaves more crud in the combustion chamber because it's burning more slowly. Find the fuel pressure regulator (on the metal fuel line on motor with a small vacuum hose to it) and remove the vacuum hose a look for fuel. If you get a strong smell of fuel it may mean the FPR is leaking. You may need to have your MAF cleaned. The two fine wires pick up dust from the air. They sell sprays for MAF and air intake cleaning at the auto stores. I'd save the money for the high octane and use regular, and the Lucas additive and just use an additive occasionally like every 10,000 miles at most. Watch for seeps at the water pump and the connectors from intake manifold to bracket for tensioner. The o-rings can leak after aging. Watch the level of coolant inside the radiator; dont' just check the reservoir. Sometimes a leak won't suck the coolant out of reservoir but will take in air causing the radiator to drop. Check transmission drain and filter change. Should be 40K miles or so, but the manual says at 100K miles. check the coolant quality. It should be changed every two years by draining and refilling with fresh coolant. What color coolant do you have? |
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