1227 messages,
Last post on May 24, 2013 at 10:37 AM
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Pontiac Grand Am Forum.
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Pontiac Grand Am, Security System, Sedan
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For those experiencing the security passlock problem, please see long-time member lovemygrandam's GM Security Passlock Fix tutorial.
#868 of 1227 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 3.1 V6 138,000 mi.
by matrixsc
Aug 26, 2010 (9:20 pm)
I thought I may as well add to this thread. I have been having problems starting my car intermittently. I was under the hood alot trying to figure out what is going on. The car would start sometimes, and not other times.The security light would come on while driving and go out months previously. Later it would come on and sometimes be on when I got to my destination and occasionally not start. Then the last few months it's been real aggravating at times, like going grocery shopping and get in the car and nothing happens. Turn the key and all the instrument lights would illuminate then go out except the security light and battery. Never read my manual about how to get it started when this happens. Anyway I would be persistant and it would eventually start, at this point I knew there had to be a fix for this I started reading this thread and thought about not wanting to cut wires and replace the bcm, ignition etc. and I had a fairly new key so I knew that wasn't the problem. I thought the only thing I should try before I do anything else was get a can of electrical cleaner (spray) went to Walmart and got it, got in the car and sprayed inside the ignition switch, really blasted it clean! Then put in the key and started it, then drove about a hundred yards when the light went out! Have been driving it now for 2 days without a problem. It was a daily occurance before this. No more security light coming on and no starting problems! I hope this is helpful to some of you! This Has been a nightmare. I hope this may be helpful to some of you that may have a security problem causing you to not be able to start your car when you want to go!
#870 of 1227 Re: 1994 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 3.1 V6 138,000 mi. [matrixsc]
by lovemygrandam
Aug 27, 2010 (6:34 am)
This is a very good suggestion. Many times, the Passlock problem arises because after years of service, metal filings build up around the magnet that is used to activate the hall effect switch in the ignition module. I actually helped someone temporarily relieve a Passlock problem on an Alero by blowing high pressure air into the ignition key opening, thus cleaning the filings away from the magnet.
It is also possible to fix the problem by removing the lock cylinder and cleaning it out with a solvent and shop air. Just remember that you need to get all the metal filings away from around the magnet.
There is a post in this thread that tells you how to remove and clean the lock cylinder. It's worth your time to go through all the posts to find it. Good luck.
#871 of 1227 Re: Any ideas for this situation... [milwrig]
by milwrig
Aug 30, 2010 (4:40 pm)
Follow Up question and steaming mad- So I broke down and took it to a dealer- explained what I had done already- after 3 days he calls me and says that it is the ignition switch- which I just replaced and is charging me $407 what can I do? Please help.........
#872 of 1227 clean the ignition switch
by tommyo1
Aug 30, 2010 (5:34 pm)
Not sure if my eyes are starting to show their age but I skimmed over this long thread to try and find that posting on how to take out the ignition switch and clean it. I can't seem to find it... Does anyone happen to know where it went?
Thanks....
#873 of 1227 Re: Any ideas for this situation... [milwrig]
by nobullchitbids
Aug 30, 2010 (8:28 pm)
When is everyone going to realize that GM dealers are running a racket on these PassLock problems? The silliness of it all is reflected by prices all over the place in terms of what it takes to make a claimed fix. I've heard every number under the sun from $189.95 to almost $800 -- every dealership has a different price for something that really costs less than $5 and a half hour of work!
Tell the dealer that it cannot be the ignition switch, that you just replaced the ignition switch, that he needs to hire a new head mechanic, and that you want your car back. If he's recalcitrant, threaten him with a lawsuit for civil fraud (that might help) or report him to your state "lemon law" administrator.
Then, go back in this thread and find the entries re resetting the PassLock codes, bridging the system with a resistor, or cutting it out entirely by installing a Radio Shack SPST switch for $1.99. That's what I did, and my car has not failed to start since (3.5 years).
#874 of 1227 Re: clean the ignition switch [tommyo1]
by lovemygrandam
Sep 03, 2010 (7:34 pm)
Tommy01,
That post is somewhere before post 599.
#875 of 1227 Re: Any ideas for this situation... [nobullchitbids]
by milwrig
Sep 05, 2010 (9:43 am)
Yeah it sure seems like it- I ended up being told that the switch I installed was defective- which is why I was having problems after I installed it. They replaced the switch and charged me 250 bucks for labor (which was bull because I already had the radio out and the lock removed- all they did was unplug it and put a new one in and all they did was put the lock back) 150 for the switch which was 50 more than the parts store. I took the switch back to the parts store, got my money back and turned in all the dealer paperwork to them to test the switch and possible get some money back from them for selling me a defective part that cost me more money. If it was defective and they fork over some store credit I'll gladly sing their praises... I'll continue with this later. Thanks to all
#876 of 1227 Re: clean the ignition switch [lovemygrandam]
by tommyo1
Sep 05, 2010 (10:13 am)
Thanks so much lovemygrandam; I will locate it this afternoon. I'm going to tinker around with it before the cold winter season sets in here in Massachusetts.
Thanks again my friend...
#877 of 1227 Re: clean the ignition switch [tommyo1]
by lovemygrandam
Sep 05, 2010 (6:35 pm)
Tommy,
The post is #59, but unfortunately, the links on that post don't work any more. When I first read the post, there were photos showing the various parts of the ignition switch after disassmebly, and how to clean out the fine metal filings and put it back together. Those links are now empty.
Here is a photo of my dash board, with the radio bezel removed.
Note that there are two hex-head screws above and below the ignition switch, and slightly to the right of the centerline of the switch. These hold the switch in place. I think you can remove them and slide the switch assembly out through the radio hole. ">