Last post on Dec 06, 2013 at 3:06 PM
You are in the Pontiac Grand Am
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Pontiac Grand Am, Security System, Sedan
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For those experiencing the security passlock problem, please see long-time member lovemygrandam's GM Security Passlock Fix tutorial.
Dec 02, 2008 (1:35 pm)
Thank you for your reply Danny. One of us is psychic because just this morning I wondered the same too; that being the possibilty of the yellow maybe not being connected or getting disconnected by the mechanic somewhere up at the ignition area when the Pontiac dealership installed that new cylinder for me quite a few months ago. . After the new cylinder and new key, I didn't have the light come on at all until a few months ago. But what is strange is that the car starts & runs fine; even with the security light constantly illuminated.
The reason the dealership installed that new cylinder was because I was having intermittent issues where I'd have to do the 10 minute wait with the key on. After the 10 minute wait, the car would start fine... and run fine for days; only to have the 10 minute wait crop up again, maybe once a week.
But this symptom at present is a bit different as the light is illuminated steady, but the car starts fine and I do not need to do the 10 minute wait... it starts fine. So while I can drive the car fine and without any problems, that darn security light remains constantly illuminated.
I wonder if the mechanic bumped that yellow wire, or some other wire in that ignition area ??? I've never looked in that area so I have no idea as to the amount of wires there.. But I wonder if by chance that the culprit could be that yellow wire at the ignition ??? Just guessing here on my part.
I never have any heavy objects hanging on my key chain; just the Pontiac keyless entry remote control. And I doubt that the previous owner had anything neither; he is a 74 year old gent who bought the car brand new. That was a main reason I scoffed up this car; it was very, very well taken care of and there were absolutely no mods done to it. The car is almost pristene if I can say so myself. A rare find to find a 2000 GT1 in this condition. The elder gent still owns 15 Napa auto stores today too; all stores on the east coast. So he took immaculate care of it... I really found a gem here...
So.... that's how I stand now.. I didn't remove that resistor; I left it in place until I give it more thought or get any other ideas. I was wondering if I should try cutting that black ground wire, as Dick did in that Alero ???? Also... when I cut the yellow wire, I am 100% positive that I connected that resistor to the BCM end, and just taped up and tucked away the end of the yellow that goes to the ignition area.
That is correct, right ??? Because that did cross my mind wondering about that unused end going to the ignition......
If I do need a replacement BCM, does anyone know what year Grand Am's have the same model BCM as my 2000 ? A lot of our cars look quite similar and I'd have to go on the junkyard guys knowledge about what BCM is proper for my car....
I'll keep everyone posted.... I
Dec 04, 2008 (7:40 am)
I forgot to mention.... Regarding the constant illumination of my security light; yes, I did have that problem before I attempted the resistor mod. So I didn't cause the light issue by doing the mod... the issue was already present.
I'm wondering if it might be worth it to have a look at that ignition wiring area; just to see if that yellow wire has come un-attached. I'm wondering if the mechanic who installed the new cylinder for me could have possible jarred a wire somewhere. Probably a longshot, but maybe worth a look anyways....
I think I'll have to remove the radio to gain access there, but I've had the radio out three years ago when the dealership ordered me a new radio because the existing one would loose 15 minutes of time daily. Luckily it was an extended warranty covered item (expensive!!!) They ordered me the new radio but I chose to install it as I wanted it right away; their appt. time was too long.... so I did it myself.
So I am familiar with removing the plastic trim piece in front of the radio / heater control area. If I can look in there with a small flashlight, maybe I could tell if something has come loosened... I sure wish it was summertime here now !!!
Brrr.... cold outside !
#488 of 1286 Re: [tommyo1]Security mod
Dec 04, 2008 (11:43 am)
After you do the resistor mod, the yellow wire that goes to the ignition switch is no longer connected to anything. If you want to determine if that wire is broken between the ignition switch and the BCM, here's what you do:
1. Remove under dash panels on right side.
2. Find the yellow wire end that you have left over when you did the mod.
3. Connect a voltmeter negative lead to that yellow wire.
4. Connect the voltmeter positive lead to a Battery + connection.
5. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. (I'm not sure it's labeled that,but you know what I mean)
6. The voltmeter should read somewhere between 10 volts and whatever your battery voltage is.
If the voltmeter reads like it's floating, then the wire is either broken, or the ignition switch hall switch is defective.
Now, all that said, It doesn't make any difference, because the yellow wire serves no other purpose than to connect the security module in the ignition switch to the BCM. Since you have done the resistor mod, that circuit no longer makes any difference, since you have substituted a resistor into the circuit instead of the security module.
#489 of 1286 Re: [tommyo1] Passlock Security Problem
Dec 04, 2008 (12:17 pm)
From your last few posts, i'm pretty convinced that your problem is in the Body Control Module. AND..... I don't think you need to replace it!!!!
Here is why.
1. If you disconnect the yellow wire between the Ignition Switch and the BCM while the car is running, the SECURITY light will come on solid, and the car will continue to run.
2. Normally, if there is a fault in your security system (indicated by the SECURITY light being on solid), and you lose battery voltage to your BCM (disconnect your battery), you will not be able to start your car, and the SECURITY light will blink.
You have disconnected your battery several times now, and have still been able to start your vehicle. That means that whatever is wrong with your BCM does not get reset by removing the battery connection.
Therefore.... you don't have to worry about the SECURITY light. Put a piece of black tape over it, and drive around for a week.... start your car several times a day.... disconnect and reconnect your battery.... If your car keeps running, leave the tape over your security light and forget about the light being there. If for some reason your car doesn't start in the future, it will be because your BCM fixed itself, so then you can remove the tape from your security light, do the 10 minute reset until the light stops blinking, and be merrily on your way.
Dec 04, 2008 (2:25 pm)
Wow, Dick.. excellent thoughts. I never would have thought of the fact that I didn't have to do that 10 minute wait after reconnecting the battery. That certainly makes sense to me regarding a possible bad BCM. I just might check around for a used BCM; but it's probably a toss-up as far as hoping to get a good one or someone else's bad one, lol. I wonder what they cost new at the GMPartsDirect website? I wish I knew what other year Grand Am's use the exact same BCM as mine just in case I end up going to the junkyard... The local junkyard here is usually the kind where he points you in the direction of a Grand Am, and you go get the part yourself. The next closest one, they do not let anyone roam the yards; they go and get the part for you. I think I'd actually like getting it myself so I could tell right away if it's flooded with water and all rusted out...
As far as ordering a new one from GM Parts Direct website, I'd bet those things most likely cost a few bucks..... And the only way to get a price from their website is to enter the exact GM part number. There's no catalog to browse...
If it's not too freezing tomorrow and for the heck of it I might check that unused yellow wire for voltage. I do have a nice digital voltmeter here already so I might as well check it. I just hope it's not too freezing; I'm not quite as limber as I used to be, lol......
Then... if all fails or if I just can't correct it, I'll have to do as you said; put a piece of black electrical tape over it and ignore it. As far as I know, I don't think the illumination of that security light causes any trouble code to show up at the yearly car inspection time... I hope not anyways.
By any chance would you happen to know what years of Grand Am's use the same (interchangeable) BCM modules? Just in case I did find one which is a different year than my 2000 GT1?
I'll poke around some more Dick and I'll post any new findings / results. And if I can't correct it then I guess I'll just tape over that security light and try to ignore it. Hard for me to do as I have a bad habit of being a perfectionist here, lol...
Thank you so much Dick for your continued help here...
Dec 04, 2008 (9:44 pm)
I just bought a 2002 GT and have been browsing the forums to see what I have to look forward to. I was able to spot the "textbook" Grand Am problems when shopping for the car thanks to all the contributors i.e. intake manifold gasket leak, fan speed inoperable, power window issuess. The price was adjusted according to the work needed and we reached an agreement. Concerning the passlock issues. Is there anything I should check out now or just wait and see? I have not noticed the security light on when driving or blinking. Also, very impressive procedure on doing the fix. Dick has done a great job documenting the repair. Thanks!
#492 of 1286 Re: Constant security light illumination [hokiemo]
Dec 09, 2008 (8:53 am)
Well, I spoke to soon. I checked my records and I had the security light come on solid while driving on August 31st. On December 8th, the dreaded no start and blinking security light occurred. This is on my 2002 Impala. I know I'll either be having the yellow wire snipped or get someone to do Dick's procedure. The Impala's owner's manual is very vague about restarting...it only says you can attempt it after the security light stops blinking and stays on solid. To the best of my recollection, here is the sequence of events, and how I got the car restarted eventually. If someone can help me streamline my routine...I'd appreciate it.
Car had started fine in front of the house. Restarted fine in front of grocery store A. Would not start at all in front of grocery store B. Even though all the dash lights came on and the blower for the fan started running, nothing else would happen when the car was in the start or on position. I removed and reinserted the key attempting to start several more times. I even removed the key and inserted it upside down and tried starting. No love. Okay, I know I can skip all those steps...I was in denial at the time.
I turned the key to the accessory position. I don't think this was the right position to leave it in. I know the PRNDL3L2L1 gear shift indicator came on but not the trip odometer. I think the fan may have started. After a few moments in this position, I decided to advance the key to the on position. Now the security light started blinking in my message center display. There would be two-three blinks in orange of security followed by a red a battery light. On another part of the dash, the check engine display was illuminated. After 9-10 minutes, the security light stopped flashing and stayed solid orange. This once again alternated with the red battery symbol.(The battery is very new and has not given me hint of trouble). I tried turning the key from the on position to the start position. Nothing. I turned the key to the off and then back to the start position. Nothing. I may have done this again. I then may have pulled the key out of the ignition, reinserted and it and attempted to start. Anyway...it took 3-4 tries before the car would start. All lights cleared on the dash. I took the car to my Mom's house and borrowed her old one. I'm now trying to get in touch with a mechanic to get a repair made before I drive it again. In the meantime, if anyone here as an Impala and has gone through this procedure multiple times, I would appreciate it if you could help me streamline my steps.
Does anyone know if I can walk away from the car and come back and attempt a restart in 15-20 minutes as opposed to sitting in a freezing car for 10 minutes with the key in the ignition? In other words...once the blinking starts...does it time itself out whether you leave the key in the on position for all that time or do you just have to wait 10 plus minutes before you attempt a restart?
One last thing...my sympathies to anyone who has this problem. I never knew ten minutes sitting in a parking lot could be such a long time.
Dec 09, 2008 (9:46 am)
According to the Grand Am manual you have to Turn the key to the OFF position after waiting the 10 minutes for the light to go out before you attemp to start the car.
#494 of 1286 Re: hokiemo [nick2006matrix]
Dec 09, 2008 (10:05 am)
Just an info update... My car continues to have the steady illumination of the "security" light, and continues to start & run fine. So I am just monitoring the situation for time being and will most likely put black electrical tape over it to mask it. That light gets bright and distracting during nighttime driving.
I haven't attempted any additional troubleshooting yet as winter weather is getting nasty here in New England. In fact, lots of lovely snow coming on Friday.. oh joy...
So I'll make some updates when necessary...
Happy holidays Dick, and everyone here in the forum. Maybe some day we'll win a lottery and get new cars !!! (maybe I should hint to Santa ??? )
#495 of 1286 Re: hokiemo [nick2006matrix]
Dec 09, 2008 (3:15 pm)
I'm not familiar enough with the 2002 Impala to know which security system it has, or the procedure to reset the light. The procedures are similar, but probably not exactly the same.
My advise to anyone who is having this problem is to first, get hold of a GM Shop Manual for your car, and read the troubleshooting procedure for this problem. The shop manuals are very thorough, and will give you enough information to find out what should be replaced (or modified). I know.... the manuals cost a lot (Around $135 for the Grand Am), but they will save you that much if you keep your vehicle until it has 100000 miles on it.
They also have the complete wiring diagram on them, so you can trace wiring problems. Don't buy any of the aftermarket manuals... they don't have any information on the security systems.