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Sedans Pontiac Grand Am Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems
737 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 11:33 AM
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Replying to: tommyo1 (Nov 20, 2008 3:16 pm) In message 465 (and 466), you posted some very detailed photos of your connector. On your photo, you can clearly read the pin numbers on the edge of the connector. It appears that your connector is identical to mine, and our yellow wires are indeed on Pin B6, and the black wire you need to use as a ground point for your resistor is on pin A6. The Connector Diagram on my web page indicates that the yellow wire is on pin A6, but I got that diagram out of a 2003 CK Truck manual, which appears to have some different features, and also uses the name "Truck Body Control" in place of "Body Control Module" I took a look directly at my connector (in 20 degree weather) and found that indeed, my yellow wire goes to pin B6, and my black wire goes to pin A6. If I turn the connector around and look closely at those two pins, mine are shiny bright, and if I measure the resistance between them, I measure 2.2 Kohms, which is the value of the resistor that I soldered in. On your first picture, where you are holding the connector in your hand, it appears that you have two mods, one for DRLs, and the other for the Passlock problem. I can make out that you have something going to the yellow wire, and then that something is wrapped in tape. It appears that a black wire is going into the other end of the tape, but I can't acertain that it is the black wire coming from pin A6. If it is, then you have done the fix correctly. The BCM should re-learn the new resistance value, and the Security Light should go out after the relearning process. If it doesn't, then I would suspect the BCM is not doing it's job. The next step might be to have a dealer read out the codes stored in the BCM. My local Chevrolet dealer charges $25 to do this, and my Pontiac Dealer charges $45, so shop around. I wish I could be of further assistance, but unfortunately, I don't have access to the shop manuals anymore. |
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Replying to: tripower1 (Aug 22, 2008 11:18 pm) Now 3 months later my car has to go back to the shop, very loud when driving and take foot off the gas, sounds like I have winter tires on my car but I don't.
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Replying to: curlylocks1014 (Apr 10, 2006 2:47 pm) PS: BTW, The ignition tumbler is in the dash too. One of techs from my work and I spent 3-4 hrs. one nite trying to figure this one out, with no luck. It's now been in the shop now for 2 weeks with no luck thus far. |
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Replying to: erpnbc (Nov 22, 2008 2:16 pm)
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Replying to: 70noschevy (Nov 24, 2008 7:44 pm) Anyways, when it rains it pours; pouring here in Massachusetts right now.. I still want to attempt another try of this, but of course I have to wait for a better day here. I'm glad our connectors are identical Dick.. That's one hurdle out of the way for me. Yes, you were correct regarding the drl mod visible in one of my pics. I did that mod three years ago and it works flawlessly for me. The two blue wires that are visible go to a 6 post slide switch hidden way in the back inside my glovebox, and I can choose to run my drl's from that slide switch, or turn them off at will. Most people on another popular forum just shut them off permanently, but I took it a step further and installed that switch; just in case they are required somewhere down the road... It was the opportune time to install the switch while I had access to everything. I hope to try the mod again, but this time I will do the 10 minute thing right away. Last time I started the car and on the first attempt it started fine and ran fine. But next time I'll do the 10 min wait and see if that makes a difference. I guess I inserted those pics with way too much resolution. That's another area that I have little knowledge; photography ! I'll have to make them smaller.... Anyways, I'll have another update, hopefully tomorrow..... |
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I forgot something... In photo 463, you can see electrical tape on the yellow wire... The photo was taken after I attempted the passlock mod. So the yellow wire has been put back into the de-modded position.. That yellow wire was the one that I put one end of the 2.2k resistor to... and the other end of the yellow was taped and tucked away.. not needed. And the other end of the resistor went to the black wire. Is that black wire supposed to be a constant ground? I wonder if I should double check it for continuity for ground ???
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Replying to: tommyo1 (Nov 25, 2008 6:15 am) Is that black wire supposed to be a constant ground? ________________________________________________ Yes. The black wire gets connected to ground through the BCM. When the connector is removed from the BCM, the black wire is floating. It goes ONLY to the Ignition Module. Dick |
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Replying to: tommyo1 (Nov 18, 2008 11:38 am) Red
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Replying to: red30 (Nov 28, 2008 2:48 pm) But anyways, can someone confirm for me exactly what dash lights illuminate when you put your key into the "on" position? I ask because yesterday I wanted to listen to the radio and I put it on the "on" position instead of the first click "acc". I noticed that my "service engine soon" light illuminates with the key position "on". For the life of me, I can't remember if it anways did that.. or if this is something that just recently started happening. With the engine started and running, it runs fine and the "service engine soon" light does NOT illuminate. It illuminates only when the key is "on".. Just wondering if this was always the case for me and I never noticed it before, or if this is something new here.... The car is still starting and running fine; the only light illuminating is that dreaded "security" light. I hope to do this mod soon... taking me some time because I'm not quite limber enough as when I was a younger guy many years ago, lol.. But I'm trying though; I just need a bit of warmth so I can do it a bit more comfortably... |
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My 02 alero ecotec 2.2 has some of the occasional intermittent no start passlock symptoms ...no 3 second fuel pump buzz ,however security light acts normal and is on before start but not on or flashing after no start. Will start after 10 min. passlock BCM relearn. Service engine light is not on, so I would assume no codes. Even though security light suggested it wasn't passlock, I decided to eliminate passlock as a possible problem ( easy fix). I installed 2.2K resistor exactly as web site said. Car started and ran fine except the intermittent no start, no fuel pump buzz remained and had to resort to 10 min. passlock relearn again and again. Also, has intermittent stall while on the road. Shift into neutral and it starts immediately. Started at 54,000mi and now at 58,000mi. Checked battery and fuel pump connections. Could be bad crank sensor but no codes. If intermittent bad fuel pump it should have got worse or quit by now. Eliminated passlock but does ignition switch still control fuel pump and ignition to some degree? Other things to check. 1. bad connection on some of the pins that connect to the BCM (checked) 2. a defect within the BCM (very rare) (how do you check? substitution?) 3. loss of serial data buss signal between the BCM (body control module) and the PCM (powertrain control module) (How?) Whew ..... HELP!!!!!!!!!!!! Please.
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